Not unless you are having fuel pressure problems.

 

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If you're below 35 psi at idle, you're probly gonna need the dual resistors.

 

I just did the dual resistor mod after talking with LKATYA.
I was having an issue where my FP gauge was "dancing" around between 20-30psi at idle and cruise.When I bypassed the resistor by jumping the circuit at the relay I got 60psi,Ruling out Fuel Pump problems.
Now after the dual resistor I'm @ 40psi + or - and hi 50's under WOT.
So Far,So good.

 

if you do not add the correct amount of power to the 255's (12v constant) then you are going to burn those Walboro's out. They are designed to run at 12v consistently, so if you have them running at less then 12v then they are going to stress out and burn up prematurely.

 

So wouldn't bypassing the resistor completely feed the pumps (stock or aftermarket) a full 12v?
How much does a single resistor cut that voltage?
Initially I replaced my old chipped up resistor with a new one.That helped for about 1 day,then back to the "Dancing" FP Gauge.I added a 2nd resistor in parallel and FP is back to normal.
I had read the Walbro's being a larger pump were too much of a draw for the single resistor??
I don't pretend to fully understand all this,just tryin' to be safe.
Thanks for any insight :bigtu

 

Yes, bypassing the resistor will run the pumps at 12v. The problem with this, if you don't have an adjustable FPR is that you'll have extremly high fuel pressure. A single resistor cuts 12v in almost half, about 6-7 volts. Yes, the dual Walbros is too much draw for the single resistor. You can run just one Walbro on the stock resistor just fine, but it won't supply the amount of fuel we need. You'll spike up to whatever fuel pressure you are running while in boost, but when the rails have fuel relieved the one pump will only supply about 35psi when at 15 lb of boost.

The best thing to do is bypass the resistor circuit all together and get a set of '97 rails and an adjustable FPR so you can adjust fuel pressure down to 35 psi at base. Just like this:

http://www.teamjdm.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=45&cPath=11_8

 

had to bring this thread back. apparently my resistor was bypassed because my fp gauge reads 60psi at idle, where exactly is the resistor located and i kinda got lost in the dual resistor mod... plz help:smt100:smt100

 

right atop the IC pump behind the bumper and above the IC HEat exchanger....

 

First get yourself a heatsink from a computer cpu, they bring down the temp of the resistor drastically which seems to be part of the problem. I'll snap some pics of my setup this weekend.

 

ok, ima look for it when i get home, thanks for the help guys, and yeah zap i would really appreciate it if you did that

 

Ikatya's (Jason) double heatsinked resistors are THE TICKET. He did a good bit of research on the problem, and came up with a great solution. Thanks Jason!

 

im going to shim in cuz i had same problem and tried a couple of things ok first i did the bypass didnt work went straight to 60psi next i did the dual resistor mod with the heatsink worked good for couple of weeks then it started going up till it was at 50psi at idle and cruise so i just took one resistor of with the heat sink been running for a year no problem fp at 40-42 if you need any more help let me know i did my own heat sink out of aluminum at wotk just made some slots on it

 

ok, what is the bypass? where does it go?, mine reads 60psi at idle, could they have done the bypass because maybe the owner before me was having problems with the pumps?

 

ok so this is what i saw under the truck. sorry for the shit photos, they we're from my phone

and this is the plug they go into

 

think i found it... could it be this?

 

i have ran the stock resistor with 2 walbros and NO issues at all ....but i do have after market rails and FP regulator ....i have since added a 3rd pump but havent ran the truck yet :smt102

 

ttt...

 

checked the relays also, and didnt make a difference, still shows 60 at idle

 

.....

 

Put a heat sink, 3 months so far, none of the issues noted and significantly lower resistor temps.

 

sorry for bringing this thread back from the dead, but i finally decided to remove 1 resistor since it had 2 and the fuel pressure went down to 50..... any chimes on why?

 

Fuel pressure went down to 50psi? At idle?
Your fuel pressure at idle should be under 40 psi.
Do you have an adjustable fuel regulator?
It sounds like your high low relay is Stuck, jumped or hot wired.

 

no adjustable fuel regulator.
its not jumped. checked it out n has the relay and ive swaped over relays also like stew indicated but nothing, stayed the same.. took a drive right now also and came back and it was hot to the touch, also did a WOT and fuel pressure went up to just under 80.... im lost:smt089

 

The tune can be set to run on high all the time by the person who tuned it. That is how mine is set. No jumper required. Just sayin'.

 

Really? Could be what the guy did that tuned my truck..... ill gice em a call tomorrow to ask.... I hope thats what it I... Thanks

 

Before you spend any money parts and a lot time, you want to check and make sure your fuel pressure gauge is correct. Install a mechanical guage in place of your electrical guage and compare readings.

Last year I spent hours checking everyhting out under the hood: the relays, voltages, jumping out the relays, etc under idling and driving conditons and I was almost ready to drop the fuel tank the check the pumps and lines, etc. But before I did that I took out the electrical sensor and installed a known accurate mechanical guage and lo an behold, the mechanical guage indicated the same psi as before I started having fuel pressure problems. Replaced the electrical sensor and all is well.

 

Interesting read.....so for street drivers with injectors/pumps, this is a must do mod?


Sent from iPad2 using Tapatalk!

 

Are you tuned for the pumps? Does the tune have 12v full time for the pumps? Did you upgrade your return line?

 

It is definitely not setup for 12v constant, because when I bypassed the resistor to see if my original pumps were bad, the pressure went up to 43psi. The problem was, when I rev it up not even in gear, the pressure would drop to 35 and lean out. The truck would start and run great up to 1/4 throttle.

Lightning performance said i should bypass the resistor, so I left it that way. Now I have 68psi at idle, and it just dies. Makes great power wot, will leave a 50ft posi burn out now, but won't idle. Both o2 sensors are stuck at almost 1v now, and I have cel rich both banks

Someone said I should put the resistor back in. The fuel rail is stock, not sure if it is the same system as the lighting? This is an 03 harley. It is the same system as my 2000 expedition. I bought a rolled 03 harley and put the supercharger on my 00 expedition, but that truck only has a single pump and runs fine. This 03 is the one with the issue though.

 

It is definitely not setup for 12v constant, because when I bypassed the resistor to see if my original pumps were bad, the pressure went up to 43psi. The problem was, when I rev it up not even in gear, the pressure would drop to 35 and lean out. The truck would start and run great up to 1/4 throttle.

Lightning performance said i should bypass the resistor, so I left it that way. Now I have 68psi at idle, and it just dies. Makes great power wot, will leave a 50ft posi burn out now, but won't idle. Both o2 sensors are stuck at almost 1v now, and I have cel rich both banks

Someone said I should put the resistor back in. The fuel rail is stock, not sure if it is the same system as the lighting? This is an 03 harley. It is the same system as my 2000 expedition. I bought a rolled 03 harley and put the supercharger on my 00 expedition, but that truck only has a single pump and runs fine. This 03 is the one with the issue though.

adjustable fuel pressure regulator time?