I myself am going with header bolts. They're an ARP bolt and you extract the studs out. That obviously is what I would go with. I bought them from JLP. They weren't on their website but I called in and asked and they sent them right out. 34 bucks I think? Makes it way easier if you ever have to sneak them out at a later date for whatever reason. Quite honestly, I don't know why anyone would ever replace studs with studs and not bolts. Can't see an apparent reason anyway.... maybe I'm missing something.:smt102

 

man I would have paid someone to come to my house or towed the truck there before yanking the motor again lol

anyway, ARP bolts for the headers. Makes installing any brand header a walk in the park, easy to get to the small 10mm 12 point heads from any angles, won't rust or corrode. It's an M8x1.25 bolt, 30mm UHL. Summit sells them in a 5 pack. I forget the exact PN but that's all the info you need to search it up. M8x1.25x30mm UHL 12 point SS

 

There is a seller on eBay that makes jigs for drilling these studs out on center FYI. Easiest way to tackle them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161881423530

X2 on the stainless ARP bolts. Same as I run.

 

Stage8 are an option also. They come with a triangle lock thingy that e-clips on and supposed to keep the bolts from backing out. That is if you have the patience to use them. (I diddnt) but bolts as opposed to studs for sure.

 

Just a heads up, stage 8s will rust, and their head is larger making install more of a pita, and that Allen head in the middle is a gimmick it just makes the bolt head bigger. Better off with smaller bolt heads and 12 point so it's more compact and more angles of attack

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

 

Can I have your Kooks please???

Here are the ARP header bolts;

ARP Stainless Steel Bolts 771-1003 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

 

You always want to minimize the amount of times you remove bolts from fully threaded aluminum holes. This is the reason you use studs and why Ford used them.

I put studs in them and set the depth with the engine on the stand so that there is a couple threads exposed from the nut. Doing this provides maximum clearance for header install with studs.

Obviously folks will do what they want.

 

On Eric's advice I used the ARP studs on my engine, header install wasn't too bad using them.

 

Use some of the ARP ultra torque lube on the nut side of the stud, You will never have a problem removing them again.