Add a panhard and a rear swaybar to get rid of the tail-wagging sensation.

I researched this a ways back, and the only way I'd use bags on the rear HD would be to use a KP components 4-link. It's built to handle the load, but requires some modification to work. It eliminates the leaf springs, and the kit I researched had a panhard included. Handling is markedly improved though.

 

Ok thanks.

 

Just lowered the HD last week, front spindles, rear flip kit and notch. Adding air bags in another week or so. Just doing the rear bags, with the stock leafs. Mostly to help with ride and when hauling junk. Went with Air Ride bags and Vailair compressor.

 

Im doing the works. 4 link rear, switches, and all. Ill do a post when it starts.

 

My truck, built by Mike Dunn, has had Ride Tech air bags installed, front and rear and a home engineered 4 link. Combined with rack & pinion steering it handles like a Corvette.

 

I ordered a weld in 4 link kit with 2500 series bags. Should be here in a few days. Then I'll order the ridetech coolride bags for the front next week followed by the control system in a few more. Going to take a week off to get it all installed.

 

what rear swaybar/panhard you all suggest ?

 

BroncoBeater.

 

This is what I want. Bags in the rear to help haul shit when needed. Whats a rough price on what it costs?

 

I am into mine $2200 installed.

 

Just got a weld in 4 link kit with 2500 series bags for under $300. I'll be around 2k for the complete setup.

 

I've been playing with air suspension for years... you get what you pay for with that stuff. Now the most expensive stuff may not always be the best, you also don't want to cheap out on components or the work. Get quality stuff that's built to hold up, and pay somebody who is good to put it in. I've seen too many cheap (airbagit/chassistech, etc.) and dangerous setups over the years that have ended in disaster. Suspension is like brakes - not an area to skimp on.

 

I've been trying to research installation tips and not finding much real helpful info. Some take the axle completely loose and support it, then start measuring. Some take it loose, then tack weld the axle to the frame, then start welding in the stuff. It seems the best bet to retain position and pinion angle would be to take the bed off, tack the 4 link in with all necessary brackets and supports, then remove the leaf springs. Im a welder and fully cabaple of doing the job myself but not much help out there it seems.

 

I would definitely tank the bed and fuel tank out. Give yourself as much room as possible. Sorry, no help on the 4 link.

 

Follow up: got the rear triangulated 4 link delivered yesterday. It's nice except the part about having to buy and install a fuel cell because the tank is right where the driver side brackets must be welded. I got a buddy with a brand new 20 gallon cell I'm going to get for a steal so here we go. Looks like a frame notch will have to be done also. I'm still a ways out on getting the rest of the system but when I get it all, I'm taking a week off work to hopefully get it all installed. I'm going to document and take pictures along the way for a new how-to thread.

 

If you plan on doing any hauling with that C Notch, then you will want to add structure to the top of the frame. Otherwise it could taco the frame.

 

It will be braced, boxed, and cross braced.

 

4-Link is awesome. Definitely one of the better upgrades I did to my truck. 4 Years now still running strong.

 

With the extensive work and modifications needed to install this, Im thinking about going a different direction. Don't want to hack up my truck. So may be selling the 4 link and installing the bags in such a way where I keep my springs and bed intact. I'll install a pan hard bar for side to side stability. Going to use coolrides in the front spring locations and do a simple front/back setup.

 

What kit did you use, Dan?

 

KP Components 4-Link I was in the same boat as you as far as hacking up the truck. Been very happy with it with some upgrades for my higher power. It has performed very well as far as I am concerned for a bolt on kit.

http://www.lightningrodder.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66227

 

Looks like tons of trial and error and sacks of money.

 

It wasn't that much and I would use a few different components as I said in my thread. Really have to expect trial and error when doing something for the first time.

 

Looks like the bolt on kit is the way to go. They sure are proud of them at $2k for a kit.

 

I have the KP kit in the rear of mine with Dominator II air bags all the way around. Ride tech shock re-locators in the front. Rides amazing. You can find a KP kit for around 1200-1400 if you search right. A bolt in c-notch is definitely recommended. It gives it the right stance and sits perfect. What size of wheel are you rollin?

 

Going to be 22s before long.