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When you see proper torque being anything from 13 ft lb to 25 ft lb, it's hard to guess which is proper.
13 is the wrong


just go with 22 and you'll be fine
 
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NGK website specifically states not to use anti-seize. IIRC anti-seize hinders proper heat transfer from the plug to the head.
 
What is a tiny bit? I run a line down the threads and then twist it in my fingers to coat the threads. Too much?
That's what I do, I use a rag to get the excess off. Just a very light coating on the threads, don't go crazy with it. I changed plugs every few hundred miles on the built Lightning I had just because it was a easy cheap thing to do and I would always check them because I drove the piss out of it everything I got in it. No use in putting old plugs back in after you get them out... Got down to about 30 mins with the powerflow setup. 24" extension with a swivel and a 6" do wonders for 4,6,7, plugs
 
You can adhere to the torque spec on some of the plugs, others require swivels so that torque won't be accurate anyway.
no plugs require swivels
 
Years ago I owned a 2000 L which spit a plug at 25000 miles. Dealer warrantied the work and installed a brand new head.


I wouldn't advise putting anti-cease on the threads, it WILL affect the torque. This is also an industry no-no for wheel studs but many practice this method with out any failures...
 
no plugs require swivels
I guess I'm missing some pieces from my tool kit then. With the eaton installed, what contraption do I need to get 7&8 out? I have 4" wobble extensions, 12, 18 & 24 extensions. What is needed with a 75LbFt tq wrench "clicker" to make it work so that I don't need a swivel?
 
Just the right length extension and clearance. For most straight shots up front I just use my 12" wobler and my 6" locking and 3"locking for the back ones under the cowl. And I use Autolite AR103's gapped @ .30 change them once a year. After a year the gap widens up to .42 to .45. I could just adjust the back strap back to .30 but I worry about if it gets too thin and breaks, and gets run through the motor. When I put a new set in it feels like a brand new motor
Crisp quick throttle.
 
Run the tr6's and a broken ground strap isn't near as dangerous as piece of iridium bouncing around in the cylinder, still no good but copper is WAY softer than titanium or iridium
 
Just the right length extension and clearance. For most straight shots up front I just use my 12" wobler and my 6" locking and 3"locking for the back ones under the cowl. And I use Autolite AR103's gapped @ .30 change them once a year. After a year the gap widens up to .42 to .45. I could just adjust the back strap back to .30 but I worry about if it gets too thin and breaks, and gets run through the motor. When I put a new set in it feels like a brand new motor
Crisp quick throttle.
Locking extensions are the way to go:smt023
 
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Sorry if this is beating a dead horse but if you had the heads off, which I do, would do anything to the heads as a preventative to blowing out any plugs? I have a 2000 lightning motor with the PI heads, would you do the Ford approved thread fix to all 8 plug holes?
 
Torquing the plugs and periodically re-torquing them just in case any have started to back out is THE end-all, be-all solution.

Lock-N-Stitch is THE best solution (and the only Ford approved method) to repair a cylinder from which a plug launches.
 
I have a 99 and I can testify that a good solution to the head-launched-plug problem could be a set of TrickFlows or 01+ heads.

After about 2 years fiddling with 99' model problems I started searching for permanent solution: Found 01+ lower manifold, intercooler, and eaton. I believe it set me back about 2k all together (not including heads).

Do you have the 9 row or 10 row intercooler? This would be my main concern if I were to be purchasing another 99-00 model L today (other than the launched plug problem that is).
 
so the '99-'00 trucks using the same heads as the '01-'02 and some '03 trucks isn't a concern about operator error on the plug install?
 
so the '99-'00 trucks using the same heads as the '01-'02 and some '03 trucks isn't a concern about operator error on the plug install?
Operator error is still a concern and plug install still requires a brain.

99-00 heads have 4 threads for the spark plug, and 01+ have 8 threads, as my faily memory is telling me right now.
 
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