Well besides your going to haft to put a helicoil in that cylinder to fix the threads or however you want to fix the threads. From what I read msd coils are junk. I've haven't had the fun of fixing the blown out plug on my L yet but have done it on several regular f150. Google would tell you exactly what you need to do

 

Lock-N-Stitch is the only Ford approved method and is the best method to repair the damaged threads. Make sure you use an aluminum insert, not a steel insert. Steel inserts cause a hot spot that is a catalyst for detonation.

Proper torque and periodically re-torquing the spark plugs will prevent this from happening.

 

is that like a kit I can buy or what?? and thanks for the info btw

 

It's a kit you can buy

 

are msd coils really junk for stock L?

 

are priests attracted to alter boys?

 

the idiot who can't install spark plugs needs to kept the hell away from whats left of your truck



and whoever ordered the MSD cops needs kicked in the groin

 

[smilie=om[smilie=om[smilie=om

 

1999 is gonna be a rough year...

 

"1999 is gonna be a rough year..."
Prince - 2016

 

Spark Plug Thread Repair Insert Kits for Ford Modular and Triton Engines On Lock-N-Stitch

 

Hey man I have a 99 and blew out two plug, my advice to you is if you're running stock boost stick with the Motorcraft plugs. I put Tr6's in my truck because I was planning to eventually up the boost but it blew them out, those plugs are terrible for idle to in my opinion, i would always hear misfires. Denso iridiums or the stock plugs are your best bet if you running stock boost :bigtu

 

yes because applying torque doesn't matter...





as said before, once these newbies can get past 1999 it'll be a lot more fun

 

yea, i was a newb once too though, does seem kinda odd though, seen about 5 of these same threads in last month or so seems like. stock plugs is prob the worst advice beside something like, "wedge a penny in the stripped out threads and shove the plug in there, its copper so it absorbs any extra electricity that leaks out the spark plug hole" lol

TR6's properly gapped and wait for it... PROPERLY TORQUED!!! = NO ISSUES!!!!

 

this is true, BUT ford modular two valves have been in the public hands for how long now and folks still won't install spark plugs properly

 

Buy a Timesert kit comes with 5 aluminum inserts. Make sure you follow instructions and make sure the valves are closed or you will have bigger problems than a blown out plug. For you newbs with 4 thread heads I always start my plugs with about an 8 in piece of 3/8 hose stuck on the end of the plug to get them started an make sure I dont strip them out.

 

Densos

 

When you see proper torque being anything from 13 ft lb to 25 ft lb, it's hard to guess which is proper.

 

13 is the wrong


just go with 22 and you'll be fine

 

I have a 1999 Lightning that I bought brand new I have used stock plugs and when I modded it the plugs to use were Densos Iridium I found them to be junk in my truck two of them broke apart and idle rough so I switched to the TR 6s and have been happy ever since I have done 5 plug changes on my truck total and no issues yet I think the key to changing plugs is not over tighten them

 

Don't forget a tiny bit of anti seize on the threads. Makes a difference

 

Do all brands recommend anti seize? Will this have an ill affect on torque specifications? otstirring

 

What is a tiny bit? I run a line down the threads and then twist it in my fingers to coat the threads. Too much?

 

That's what I do, I use a rag to get the excess off. Just a very light coating on the threads, don't go crazy with it. I changed plugs every few hundred miles on the built Lightning I had just because it was a easy cheap thing to do and I would always check them because I drove the piss out of it everything I got in it. No use in putting old plugs back in after you get them out... Got down to about 30 mins with the powerflow setup. 24" extension with a swivel and a 6" do wonders for 4,6,7, plugs

 

NGK website specifically states not to use anti-seize. IIRC anti-seize hinders proper heat transfer from the plug to the head.

 

You can adhere to the torque spec on some of the plugs, others require swivels so that torque won't be accurate anyway.

 

no plugs require swivels

 

20 or 23 foot pounds of torq

 

Years ago I owned a 2000 L which spit a plug at 25000 miles. Dealer warrantied the work and installed a brand new head.


I wouldn't advise putting anti-cease on the threads, it WILL affect the torque. This is also an industry no-no for wheel studs but many practice this method with out any failures...

 

Just the right length extension and clearance. For most straight shots up front I just use my 12" wobler and my 6" locking and 3"locking for the back ones under the cowl. And I use Autolite AR103's gapped @ .30 change them once a year. After a year the gap widens up to .42 to .45. I could just adjust the back strap back to .30 but I worry about if it gets too thin and breaks, and gets run through the motor. When I put a new set in it feels like a brand new motor
Crisp quick throttle.

 

Locking extensions are the way to go:smt023

 

Run the tr6's and a broken ground strap isn't near as dangerous as piece of iridium bouncing around in the cylinder, still no good but copper is WAY softer than titanium or iridium

 

Sorry if this is beating a dead horse but if you had the heads off, which I do, would do anything to the heads as a preventative to blowing out any plugs? I have a 2000 lightning motor with the PI heads, would you do the Ford approved thread fix to all 8 plug holes?

 

Torquing the plugs and periodically re-torquing them just in case any have started to back out is THE end-all, be-all solution.

Lock-N-Stitch is THE best solution (and the only Ford approved method) to repair a cylinder from which a plug launches.