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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Congrats to Rob and Company for getting the site back up and not losing much.  Close call.  I'm looking to make my next mod (around $500 limit) and I'm just not sure where to go from here.  My current mods are:  Roush suspension kit, Bassani Cat Back, JDM cold air kit, JDM 4lb lower pulley, JDM SCT chip, line mod valve, Denso IT22's, boost bypass, and the crankcase breather (also recently added a Gaylords X2000 lid, but don't think that makes it any faster!). 

As the dyno run shows, I'm at 390RWHP and 478LbsTq.  I've since sent my chip back to Jim at JDM to richen the A/F a bit (I was somewhat lean throughout, as you can see).   Anyway, I'm pondering some ideas as to what to do next.  I'm considering traction bars (which ones?), 2 lb blower pulley with new idlers, electric fan kit, ported Eaton, etc.?  Suggestions greatly appreciated!  Thanks, :-?
 

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I definately do the ported eaton or a Factory tech Valve body. Best bang for your buck. SOme traction bars are a good investment as well. A good set of Lakewood Traction bars will cost you $100 bucks at summit or RPMOutlet
 

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I'd agree YOU ARE LEAN

Congrats on the Great #'s Tim :smt023 :smt023

As said, Bars ARE going to be needed, (but must be thought out) more later on it...
EVERYTHING DEPENDS ON WHAT THE MASTER PLAN IS ???

For now, you could add more boost as you say, maybe get a port, go the cooling mod way, (which are great choices)
BUT Fans, and or Water Pump, + Upper, is DEF more than 500.00
"SO"
If you can go more, (and depending on the Master Plan)
Here's two places you must look as to not piss money away, and then throw it away later, (been there done that) :sad:
"IF" the plan is to keep going faster and faster (that seems to be EVERONES plans)
[smilie=3gears.gif] I can say from WASTED MONEY and experience, (I'm now on my 3rd Traction Device, 58" bars) that once you work into the low 12's, YOU WILL run into issues using a slapper style bar, so if the plan is to never get there, slappers it is.
BUT if the plan is to go faster and attempt 11's, YOU WILL want 58" Bars, and can prob find a nice used pair now, for what you'll pay for slappers (I did).

As for the Master Plan again, if it is to shoot for 11's on stock block, I'd forget the fans,
pump, port, and pulleys, and go straight for a aftermarket S/C NOW, (it'll save you in the long run) The KB comes with a hefty price tag, but I just went for a Magnum Powers, thats a great choice that will allow you factory reliability, safe delivery of boost, no fuel upgrade needed RIGHT NOW, and many already proved 11's are cake with it on a stock block. AND later it can be turned up and get you even into the 10's
:smt026

Again, everything depends on the master plan...... :smt017
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Rob, you've always given me robust advice. I agree with you on the S/C upgrade, but I know I can't afford the Kenne Bell... SO..... how much is the MagPowers? Where do I get one?

Also, are the traction bars only useful on WOT launches, or do they help with traction across the RPM range? In other words, I'm breaking loose even at half throttle. Will they help that as well, or just hard drag launches?
 

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No Prop Bro,

Slapper style bars are best for NOT effecting your current ride and comfort level,
you adjust the snubbers @ 3/4 to 1-1/4 inches away form contact point and they will
only load up under hard acceleration. I used PSP Truck Trak Bars, and I absolutely loved them. No change in driving comfort either, and they were awesome for my early 12.8's,
12.7's, 12.5's, and even 12.3's. But as soon as I worked my way to 12.2's, and then
12.0's I started to develop a violent hop on launch.

(as soon as the Vid section comes back up, I'll post a link here, and you'll clearly see what I mean on my 11.81 run with slappers, and then another 11 sec run on 58" bars)

58" Bars are DEF the best and all the Big Dogs have them, however I was personally very unhappy with the stiffness it added, (or comfort it took away). Some say it doesn't change the ride, I say BULL FRIGGING SCHITT, common sense tells you, that if you bolt the back of the truck, to the front of the truck, and prevent the rear from turning, IT WILL result in a stiffer ride,however it is a small price to pay for the awesome results.

To answer you questions ANY BAR has one purpose, --> to prevent the rear from twisting, (WRAPPING), hence snapping the drive shaft. They will not give you traction, the will not stop the tires form spinning, AMOF the 58" if anythng make it spin more, because it throws the power to the ground instantly, where as the snubber of a slapper bar has some give before it loads up.

As for the Magnum Powers, The owner Charles is a Member here :D, and our newest Vendor (PSP) is now a dealer :D.
AMOF I was at Sal's shop today, and he has some up for grabs :D
 

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hey i dynoed 384 hp and 507 lb ft and my ported blower will be on by wednesday the 29th and im gonna dyno it i got a new tune so far since that last dyno and the egr blockoff. ill pst the dyno slips so u can see the numbers on a ported eaton.
 

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Awesome, love to see the results Boostin, GO GET UM :smt023

Don't get me wrong, I have a ported Eaton AND LOVE IT,
DEF INCREASE IN POWER AND PERFORMANCE.

But I think when we all look back NOW, we realize that "IF" you saved the original money we all spent on all the Mods along the way, Pulleys, Ported Eatons, Electric Fans, Cobra Pumps, bla bla bla, in the long run it would have actually been cheaper to buy an aftermarket S/C FIRST, and the results would DEF be there immediatey.

Good example is I absolutely love my Dial Ur Boost Upper Pulley Set Up, (got 4 Pulleys for the Hub too), been using it dam near 3 yrs now, but when I switch to the Mag, I cant use it :sad: I went through Hellwig Traction Control Springs, then the Truck Traks, and now the 58" Bars. I'm now on my "3rd" Diablo Chip, I sold the Zex kit after a while, and switched to Race Tested, etc...

The un moded Lightning's out there NOW, have oppurtunity's we NEVER HAD. In hindsight, if I went right to a S/C and Chip, it would have been MUCH CHEAPER.
(but again, these choices WERE NOT available to us, THEY ARE FOR YOU ;)
 

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yeah im not gonna get an aftermarket blower id rather save the extra 3000 and have the ported eaton and use the 3k for a bottom end or atleast get it near paid for cuz i wanna buy a racetested kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hmmmm, I completely hear you and understand your point about more advanced parts/technologies being available to new lightning owners as opposed to those who bought their L's a few years back. Aftermarket S/C is definitely the way to go... more efficient, more boost, safer boost (cooler charge temps), etc.

But... I just called PSP and asked the $1,700.00 question... yes, that is what they want for the M/P. Then they said that was for the new case and nose... that I had to swap my Eaton rotors out and reuse them!!! So what am I getting for my $1700? Better porting and bearings? Sounds like a lot of bones for just that. Can't I get near that performance from an Apten Eaton for $600? Or, at least with a KB I get a twin screw vs. a roots, much less install hassle, AND I get to recycle my Eaton on ebay and recoup some of my $3000 (vs. a useless empty Eaton case). Do you guys think the M/P case and nose are really worth $1700? Not to mention the labor involved? Just seems a bit much for a blower case.

Am I missing something? Help me understand...
 

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i see your point i would go for the ported blower mine is done and will be installed this week. the 1700 could be used for something much better like a racetested kit and nitrous tune. :smt077
 

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timautry said:
Not really interested in nitrous.  I mean, if you think about it (and I may tick a few of you off here), I think we're already "cheating" (if you will) with the S/C.  All power-adders in general are kind of like taking a magic potion when you need it to defeat the "giant."  I absolutely love my L, and everything it represents.  But you have to respect the NA guys that can make 500 RWHP through a carburator or standard fuel injection systems.  Anyway, the point I'm trying to make is, the S/C is about as far as I'm willing to go in the "magic" department.  N2O is absolutely over the top, in my opinion.  That is truly like taking a magic potion...  don't think I'll ever go that route.  Pain in the butt to maintain, as well (managing pressure, refilling bottles, etc.)

But... I'm VERY interested to hear how your ported Eaton works out, Boostin'.  Think I may end up going that route unless someone can convice me that the Magnum Powers (or KB for that matter) is the way to go (and worth the $$$).

Anybody have any comparison numbers?  Ported Eaton vs. Magnum Powers vs. Kenne Bell...?  That would be a GREAT MMFF mag article, wouldn't it?


By the way, thanks for the replys guys, this is probably what I love most about being a Lightning owner... O.K., second most... he he he....
http://www.f150online.com/galleries/images/1912-2680-108563.jpg
 

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The magnums powers is the way to go.Dont let anybody tell you anything different.I personally tested my truck on Sals dyno at Power Surge Performance with just a swap of my ported eaton to the magnums with all factors like timming,pulleys the same and went from 482 to 527 hp.Thats a 45 hp increase!!!Not to mention we went from my self ported eaton to the magnum.My self ported eaton with just a swap from a stock eaton was good for 25 hp.So were talking 70 hp with a swap from astock eaton to magnum!!!This magnum pulls like a mofo!!!With my self ported eaton i would only see around 14.5 on the boost and it would drop to 11.With the magnum its gone to 19-20 and stays!!!!!!!No drop offs!!!!!!The gret thing about he magnum is on the dyno graphs its dosent drop off like how the eaton runs out of breath.We got some supersize pulleys for testing comming up.I let u know how we make out.With work and the holidays here its been hard to get down there.We will have results soon.Contact Sal at PSP and make the switch.You love every second of it>
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Wow... that's the reply I was hoping for! If I can gain 70 RWHP by going from a stock Eaton to the MP, then that IS worth the $1700. What pulleys are you running? Does the MP come with a quick change pulley system?
 
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