The issue really isn't that dry is terrible,
The issue is Dry on Superchargers and Turbo's is a no no.
It's never recommended, even by the Mfg's that make the kits
An Overview Of Wet, Dry And Direct Port Systems
The most misunderstood is the “dry” type of system. A “dry” nitrous system simply means that the fuel required to make additional power with nitrous will be introduced through the fuel injectors (remember, fuel makes power, nitrous simply lets you burn more of it). This keeps the upper intake dry of fuel. We can accomplish this by two methods. First, is to increase the pressure to the injectors by applying nitrous pressure from the solenoid assembly when the system is activated. This causes an increase in fuel flow lust like turning up the pressure on your garden hose from 1/2 to full. The second way we can add the required fuel is to increase the time the fuel injector stays on. This is accomplished by changing what the computer sees, basically tricking the computer into adding the required fuel. In either case, once the fuel has been added, the nitrous can be introduced to burn the supplemental fuel and generate additional power.
The second type of nitrous kit is the “wet” style of kit. These kits include plate systems and add nitrous and fuel at the same time and place (normally 3-4” ahead of the throttle body for fuel injected applications or just under the carb as with plate systems). This type 0f system will make the upper intake wet with fuel. These systems are best used with intakes designed for wet flow and turbo/supercharged applications.
Most of these employ "dry" injection technology, where the OEM fuel injection provides the required additional fuel to the motor only when the nitrous system is armed and activated at W.O.T. (wide open throttle).
All systems provide excellent fuel/nitrous distribution to each cylinder.
[b]"Wet" type kits are offered for most turbocharged and supercharged applications due to the increased air velocity and extra heat from the forced induction.[/b]
Dry vs. Wet - Which One Do I Choose?
Dry (nitrous only) systems are perfect for adding a quick and safe 40-70 horsepower to a stock or modified naturally aspirated EFI vehicle.
Wet (nitrous mixed with fuel) systems are used on forced induction EFI vehicles or race applications using a direct port or plate system. Wet systems are a little safer in some applications because they add both fuel and nitrous not relying on the stock computer to compinsate for the nitrous.
Now you heard it straight from 3 Nitrous MFG's
I look at it this way
With most normal vehicles in the world, you can drive them for 10 years pinging and detonating 24/7 and never have a motor issue. We've all had cars that pinged with crappy gas, etc and we drove them that way for years.
With a Lighting,
1 wrong tank of gas, a few degrees too much timing, a clogged fuel filter or injector, and
BOOM
You DO NOT want to trick the computer, or let it go lean FIRST so THEN the computer can add fuel and level it off. My Lighting detonated one time in 3 years, that was for maybe 3-5 seconds (but yes it was under the worse conditions, racing a z06 down the 1320) and when we took my motor apart now 3 YEARS AFTER, we found my heads were eating away around the spark plug area. Detonation and a Lighting DO NOT go together, a few seconds under the wrong conditions and
BOOM
A dry system is ok for low HP and NON S/C / Turbo applications, but on a Lightning,
it's just too dam risky.
Ask Brother Chim, it cost him a Motor
