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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I could have sworn I read on here that using a dry kit is alot better than using a wet kit.
I might be tripping but I think it was Rob who said "never go with a wet kit",am I right Rob?
I read that a wet kit is not recommended on our trucks.
???????
Thanks,
Bryan
 

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NEVER GO WITH A DRY KIT

ALWAYS WET ON A SUPERCHARGER!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
AHHHHH,Thank you Rob.
I was asking this for my own future knowledge and was trying to help
someone else out. I guess I was tripping,lol.
:cheers:
 

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Some people have fears that fuel is not good to put through the blower but then again I have never heard of it being a problem and this is backed by 30 years of experience with our home supplier.

The problem with dry kits is you have to rely on your factory injectors to supply the extra fuel. You can do this safely with small shots per application but you are limited.

Another problem is the regulators to add the additional fuel for the existing nitrous kts are not very consistant. Again you may be fine if using a small shot on a given application as the rich factory ECU settings can compensate for small error. With a "wet" kit you always get extra fuel with the nitrous and are much better off for now until technology or better products catch up.
 

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This may be a dumb question but I have to ask and I do not want to get flamed here.

What if you put a dry shot before the MAF and you have increases your injector size and fuel pumps and also replaced the MAF to a larger one (up from a 90). Would the MAF not read the extra oxygen and then increase the fuel to the motor?

I ask this becasue a buddy of my is doing his dry shot that way in his Firebird and I was considering doing that to mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you Racetested and Rob.
Racetested we will be talking in the future when I can get up the $!!!
I was always scared of nitrous blowing up my motor, but not any more,lol.

Avalanche,not a dumb question, I was thinking the same thing :)
 

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The issue really isn't that dry is terrible,
The issue is Dry on Superchargers and Turbo's is a no no.
It's never recommended, even by the Mfg's that make the kits

An Overview Of Wet, Dry And Direct Port Systems

The most misunderstood is the “dry” type of system. A “dry” nitrous system simply means that the fuel required to make additional power with nitrous will be introduced through the fuel injectors (remember, fuel makes power, nitrous simply lets you burn more of it). This keeps the upper intake dry of fuel. We can accomplish this by two methods. First, is to increase the pressure to the injectors by applying nitrous pressure from the solenoid assembly when the system is activated. This causes an increase in fuel flow lust like turning up the pressure on your garden hose from 1/2 to full. The second way we can add the required fuel is to increase the time the fuel injector stays on. This is accomplished by changing what the computer sees, basically tricking the computer into adding the required fuel. In either case, once the fuel has been added, the nitrous can be introduced to burn the supplemental fuel and generate additional power.

The second type of nitrous kit is the “wet” style of kit. These kits include plate systems and add nitrous and fuel at the same time and place (normally 3-4” ahead of the throttle body for fuel injected applications or just under the carb as with plate systems). This type 0f system will make the upper intake wet with fuel. These systems are best used with intakes designed for wet flow and turbo/supercharged applications.


Most of these employ "dry" injection technology, where the OEM fuel injection provides the required additional fuel to the motor only when the nitrous system is armed and activated at W.O.T. (wide open throttle).
All systems provide excellent fuel/nitrous distribution to each cylinder.

[b]"Wet" type kits are offered for most turbocharged and supercharged applications due to the increased air velocity and extra heat from the forced induction.[/b]


Dry vs. Wet - Which One Do I Choose?

Dry (nitrous only) systems are perfect for adding a quick and safe 40-70 horsepower to a stock or modified naturally aspirated EFI vehicle.

Wet (nitrous mixed with fuel) systems are used on forced induction EFI vehicles or race applications using a direct port or plate system. Wet systems are a little safer in some applications because they add both fuel and nitrous not relying on the stock computer to compinsate for the nitrous.


Now you heard it straight from 3 Nitrous MFG's ;)

I look at it this way

With most normal vehicles in the world, you can drive them for 10 years pinging and detonating 24/7 and never have a motor issue. We've all had cars that pinged with crappy gas, etc and we drove them that way for years.

With a Lighting,
1 wrong tank of gas, a few degrees too much timing, a clogged fuel filter or injector, and
BOOM

You DO NOT want to trick the computer, or let it go lean FIRST so THEN the computer can add fuel and level it off. My Lighting detonated one time in 3 years, that was for maybe 3-5 seconds (but yes it was under the worse conditions, racing a z06 down the 1320) and when we took my motor apart now 3 YEARS AFTER, we found my heads were eating away around the spark plug area. Detonation and a Lighting DO NOT go together, a few seconds under the wrong conditions and
BOOM

A dry system is ok for low HP and NON S/C / Turbo applications, but on a Lightning,
it's just too dam risky.

Ask Brother Chim, it cost him a Motor :cry:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
[smilie=eek4.gif] :shock:
Rob, all I have to say after reading that is thank God,
1-I diddn't have a sudden impulsive urge to buy a nitrous kit (yet) :)
2-I asked a noob question,but got expert info
3-Thank you for the expert info, later in my modthrax I would have went off half cocked
on this and Bye Bye motor!!!!
Holy Chit dude,Thank you.
 

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Avalanche,
There is no way that a MAF is going to accurately read the extra oxygen from the nitrous injector. First I don't think it can respond fast enough to the high blast of pressure and second the nitrous will give false readings as it's so cold and will probably ruin the sensor.

You may get away with a very small shot but this is not the ideal way to set-up nitrous at all.
 

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racetested said:
Avalanche,
There is no way that a MAF is going to accurately read the extra oxygen from the nitrous injector. First I don't think it can respond fast enough to the high blast of pressure and second the nitrous will give false readings as it's so cold and will probably ruin the sensor.

You may get away with a very small shot but this is not the ideal way to set-up nitrous at all.
I am not second guessing you here you are the expert but my buddy is running a dry shot just at if not right at 200. Now I will give that he is NA and not turbo or S/C. He has been running that setup for almost two years with no problem. I just stated this becuase I have seen it done with no problems. He does use LS1 edit to reprogram his computer that may have something to do with it but that is how has his setup right now and like I said almost two years with no problems.
 

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We have never done extensive testing with the set-up you are mentioning but I will bet that the ECM tuning is pretty much doing the same thing as a regular dry kit would and the MAF is not reading and tuning accurately. I say this as I have worked with a good tuner and the computer tuning can make very accurate adjustments from an otherwise roller coaster a/f curve.

To keep this honest I would see if your friend knows exactly what the tuner did.
 

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I will get with him and see if he can give me the particulars to his tune and how it is setup.
 

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Avalanche,
As much as I consider ourselves experts there can always be something that we just never addressed and don't have answers for. I have so many stories of people getting completely wrong readings by tuning nitrous with a wideband and then the other half are getting great results and have run fine for years.

My guess is going back the "tune" issue. Computers can do some tremendous things now that were not available a few years back. I guess this is no different then all the new software Highpower has created for the "Maximiser". The Maximiser is pretty much a standalone controller for your nitrous system where you can do things that weren't achievable years ago, now combine this with advanced ECM tuning and you can do some amazing things. My problem is I haven't had the time to work with ECM tuning extensively but looks like I better get my butt in gear. [smilie=eek4.gif]
 

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Avalanche,
Now you have me thinking and the comments I made earlier sound assinine about the set-up not working when in fact it could I suppose. The problem is the set-up in question is so application specific and would require a god tuner to set- it up and work properly that we could never supply this and therefore that's why I don't have a specific answer for you. We need to design and supply kits that can be bolted on easily and be reliable and that's why we never addressed the set-up you mentioned as it's to custom.

I'm interested in hearing back in what you found out as I don't want to keep telling people 'no' when in fact the answer is 'yes'.
 

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Racetested, I tried to call him today but he was out of town. As soon as i hear from him i will let you know. Would youlike me to call you or post it up here for all to see??
 

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A public post would be good for all to learn.

I did forget some basics though as we all tend to do and speaking with a friend brought up some good points.

1) A MAF can only read air volume, or to be more precise the value needed to maintain the temperature of a hot wire.
It doesn't read Oxygen level of incoming air. Only a Lambda can do that after combustion and the proportions of o2 in exhaust gas vary depending on proportion of nitrous to air injected.

2) He's freezing the MAF, going into full fuel mode and probably tripping limp home mode giving him retarded ignition When you run a fuel injector at about 80% duty, where the hell is the extra fuel going to come from ? It has to come from fuel pressure. Fuel pressure slows the injectors down until they basically stay open, or as near as damn it on a 200 shot. He's frozen the MAF so thats gone full rich too and at that level even if the lambda is running at WOT it hasn't got a chance of reading the oxygen level to help correct it. From start to finish it doesn't make sense.
 
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