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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today I changed to accessory belt on my truck. I'm stock pulleyed and with 205k miles my belt would squeak if it rains or whatnot so it's time for a new belt. Took me about 3 hours to get it finished and I'm feeling all good about myself for completing this PITA job. Anyway I to the bracket on the bellhousing and torque converter to unlock the engine but I couldn't get the screw back on the stud on the converter so I put the 1/2 ratchet and 14MM allen socket back on the crank to rotate the engine enough so that I could get to the stud on the converter. So I got it back on and put the cover back on the tranny, and did a quick once over before starting it up and when I started it up I heard this grinding kind of sound. It seemed to run fine, but gave me the impression that I had a pulley bearing the was shot. It lasted for a second or 2 and went away while I was walking to the front of the truck to figure out what pulley was making this noise and then it started spraying oil everywhere. So I ran it cut off the truck and when I got to looking at WTF happened I saw that the ratchet was still on the crank. It seemed to be running fine before I was able to cut it off, but the damage I can see happened it the tranny coolant lines that mount behind the brace and busted and that put a crack in the tranny cooler. Also a fan blade broke off and the bottom of the fan shroud got broken up some. The 1/2 Stanley ratchet now free spins and the 14MM socket I bought is apparently a really good one and looks unphased by the experience.

So I know I at least need new:
-Coolant line that run from the tranny to the cooler.
-Trans cooler
-Engine fan
-Fan shroud

Any help buying the correct parts will be appreciated. Mainly the lines as the pictures I'm seeing don't look like the OEM lines on the retailers sites.

I wonder how torqued down the pulley is on the crank now.?.?.? Lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I can start things with a decent diagram..

I've recently been looking for trans lines too and there are lots of sources / manufacturers that copied the oem stuff

links I've saved were here in canada so not much use to you..likely


View attachment 546077
Yeah, I've been looking at diagrams for 4R100 trucks myself. I though Lightnings were the only "F150" to get a 4R100? (A 02+ F150 HD possibly, but I though even the HD's with the L's engine got a 4R70W.?.?.?) It looks like Dorman and a few others makes lines to fit. Are the quick connects on the radiator a PITA to get out? I heard they are and the line that runs from the tranny to the lower radiator looks kind of hard to get at.

Here are some pictures of the carnage:
Automotive tire Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas


Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Rim


Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Bumper
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Gas Soil Auto part Metal Rock
 

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Idono..my truck has fittings at every joint in the lines..and rad

in the short term a tubing cutter, some rubber transmission hose and some clamps make the trans usable again until you find the replacements
 

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When my 4x4 expy cooler lines decided to rust out, I used 1 dorman and 3 sunsong lines from the rock place. Good price and shipping (to the UK) I had to bend a little to get a good fit but not too hard for the best part of 6ft line rotate pull rotate back then forget lol. What i will say is mine didn’t have quick connects But use good fitting wrenches, flare nut or crows foot on a 3/8 bar mine were very tight and started to round off.
Or for yours could you not get a hard line to AN adapter in the right size (i can’t remember the diameter)trim the hard line say by the oil pan and run AN lines to a new trans cooler and remote filter?
Then run an e fan to replace the damaged fan and shroud?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
When my 4x4 expy cooler lines decided to rust out, I used 1 dorman and 3 sunsong lines from the rock place. Good price and shipping (to the UK) I had to bend a little to get a good fit but not too hard for the best part of 6ft line rotate pull rotate back then forget lol. What i will say is mine didn’t have quick connects But use good fitting wrenches, flare nut or crows foot on a 3/8 bar mine were very tight and started to round off.
Or for yours could you not get a hard line to AN adapter in the right size (i can’t remember the diameter)trim the hard line say by the oil pan and run AN lines to a new trans cooler and remote filter?
Then run an e fan to replace the damaged fan and shroud?
I'm thinking my truck doesn't have the quick disconnects. (thank God) I know Ford has started using quick disconnect lines and I was looking at where they mount to the radiator and it made me think it was some kind of quick disconnect, but upon further inspection I think y'all are right and it's just threaded into the radiator.

I may go to an e-fan setup. Knows as good a time as any. Do y'all know if Harley#356's kit is just the wiring or does it come complete with the fan setup? I know he has either MARK VIII kits or Raptor fan kits. Does the MARK VIII fan mount in the OEM Lightning shroud? I think Ford discontinued that shroud. How are people mounting the blowers expansion tank with a Raptor fan setup?

I'm tempted to also just upgrade to a SD trans cooler as it looks like you have to cut and mod the OEM lines to fit it. Anyone still on LR do this mod and can give their opinion of it?
 

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when I was considering the e-fan swap I was thinking (heard) the 2010 & ^ F150 fan was a close fit for the factory mounts on the rad .. or close enough you can make things work without too much effort

and the rad's so wide, a pair of fans should be more efficient plus you have the assurance of having two fans

two control circuts might be nice to

the 2010 fans can be had for 100-250 bucks

though I might prefer used ford o-e from the wreckers rather than an offshore (presuming) doorman version

the pigtail connector is easy to source too
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I'm tempted to also just upgrade to a SD trans cooler as it looks like you have to cut and mod the OEM lines to fit it. Anyone still on LR do this mod and can give their opinion of it?
If you do the sd cooler you can just run an fittings to both ends and delete the stock lines. Can piece your own or Timothy White (Hose hustler on fb) can make you some.
 

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SVT Tim. I have his phone number. Anyone wants it, just send me a conversation and I'll provide it. He's good with this.

I have a Mad Enterprises Super Duty cooler kit in my garage. just need to have some time to do it. Yeah, have to cut the stock cooler lines down underneath the radiator. And use some AN fittings to piece it all back together again. It's coming up on the time of year when the truck sits for a long period of time. I'll work on it piecemeal until it's warm again.
 

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Today I changed to accessory belt on my truck. I'm stock pulleyed and with 205k miles my belt would squeak if it rains or whatnot so it's time for a new belt. Took me about 3 hours to get it finished and I'm feeling all good about myself for completing this PITA job. Anyway I to the bracket on the bellhousing and torque converter to unlock the engine but I couldn't get the screw back on the stud on the converter so I put the 1/2 ratchet and 14MM allen socket back on the crank to rotate the engine enough so that I could get to the stud on the converter. So I got it back on and put the cover back on the tranny, and did a quick once over before starting it up and when I started it up I heard this grinding kind of sound. It seemed to run fine, but gave me the impression that I had a pulley bearing the was shot. It lasted for a second or 2 and went away while I was walking to the front of the truck to figure out what pulley was making this noise and then it started spraying oil everywhere. So I ran it cut off the truck and when I got to looking at WTF happened I saw that the ratchet was still on the crank. It seemed to be running fine before I was able to cut it off, but the damage I can see happened it the tranny coolant lines that mount behind the brace and busted and that put a crack in the tranny cooler. Also a fan blade broke off and the bottom of the fan shroud got broken up some. The 1/2 Stanley ratchet now free spins and the 14MM socket I bought is apparently a really good one and looks unphased by the experience.

So I know I at least need new:
-Coolant line that run from the tranny to the cooler.
-Trans cooler
-Engine fan
-Fan shroud

Any help buying the correct parts will be appreciated. Mainly the lines as the pictures I'm seeing don't look like the OEM lines on the retailers sites.

I wonder how torqued down the pulley is on the crank now.?.?.? Lol
Might as well do the power stroke trans cooler upgrade it’s way bigger and I believe it’s all OE stuff they use for the kits I forgot where they sell them tho I might be on JLP or LFP
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks guys.

I ended up ordering the Tru Cool LPD4739 kit. It's their 40,000 GVW cooler that comes with the bypass valve. Most people skip on the bypass valve, but I decided to get it just to be safe even though I probably don't need it in SC. Hell it would suck if the bypass quit fuctioning and it stopped sending fluid to the cooler. I believe it works similar to a thermostat, but I don't believe this bypass has the fail-safe built in to lock it open if it fails. This kit is extremely popular with the GM crowd and they rave about it. It's surprising to me that the Ford, Dodge, Nissan and Toyota guys that tow a lot don't seem to use it as much, but maybe they have better OEM coolant systems, but IDK. It seems like a decent amount of Jeep and O/R focused Toyota guys use it judging by the reviews I've read, but 90% of the reviews are Silverado/Sierra/Tahoe/etc guys.

Here's the kit.

I also ordered this hose.

I'm debating whether or not the cut into the OEM lines behind the K-member or just run the rubber hose all the way. What do you guys think? Do y'all know of any good spaces to use to keep 3/8 rubber hose from rubbing? I know that AN line has the spacers you can get to hold them apart. This rubber line I ordered is supposed to be pretty good and robust line. It measures like 11/16 on the OD. (.6875 or roughly 17.5MM)

Also what's thread used on the transmission where the hard lines connect? If I use the rubber hose all the way then I need to get some 90* fitting to use.

I'm replenishing the lost ATF with Valvoline Multi-Vehicle ATF full synthetic. Any reason why this wouldn't be a good choice?

BTW what are people doing with their blower expansion tanks who use an electric fan setup that uses a different fan shroud?

Sorry for so many questions, and thanks,

Jesse
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
BTW upon further research it appears that the 03/04 L's got the quick disconnect lines where the lines go into the radiator. Seems really dumb to make this change at the end of the trucks production cycle, but whatever I guess.

There's always some little, odd thing with any give year model GEN2 L. It's hard to keep up with the differences year to year. And compared to regular F150's it's even worse. For example The Tire Kingdom ended up breaking my parking break cable somehow and even it is unique to a Lightning as a Lightning is the only RCSB truck with the 7700 GVWR package. Again just a lot of little odd things with a L. LOL

Great trucks though. In the 12 years I've had it my L has never let me down or given me an issue that shut me down until this stupidity which is 100% my fault and not the trucks.
 

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Double check these are right cause i did it so long ago. Youll need 2 of these that go into the transmission. Then you can put 90s on them and run your hose. Id go with braided AN line youll be happy in the end you disnt just use rubber. Earls part # is AT991947ERL.
 

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with the availability of aftermarket steel trans lines ... I'd really reconsider running hose from front to back.. it's gonna flop around no matter what you do and it's no where as reliable as steel lines.. and it's only one small split hose before you need a new transmission...cough..
use the hose for adapting things if needed .. and only "IF"
 
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