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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, it's that time of year when projects start happening! I started mine off by removing the truck bed. Special thank goes out to @cbxer55 for helping me carry it off! I'm going treat the frame and start with rear shocks and TA cover. First question I have is has anyone removed the charcoal canister thats under the bed? What are the pros and cons to removing it. If it stays, ill need to atleast replace all the rubber lines. They are all dry rotted. Any other helpful tips and ideas are welcome! Thanks in advance!


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I deleted all of mine. Also the plastic thing under the hood with the white and green caps and all yhe little hoses. You have to have it turned off in the tune or itll throw a light. Down side? Some people say they smell gas. Ive never noticed any in my small garage. Plus u can shed a few lbs cause race truck馃ぃ
 
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10 second street truck
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The system is for the fuel tank evap.

Pro's less weight. Cleaner underhood.

Cons: can effect emissions. Needs a tune to turn off the check engine light.

There are some good how too's on completely removing it and venting the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'll have to do a quick search and see what comes up.

So the other project I'm gonna tackle while the bed is off is protecting the frame. What have you guys used? The frame only has surface rust. I'm going to clean it with a wire wheel or brush and coat it with something. What's best to use?

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With all the epa by going on I would leave it. Unless something really good happens for the country as a whole, California type crap as far as emissions go are coming sooner or later to the rest of the country.
 

regular joe
2002 True Blue
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I was going to ask how you were going to treat your frame. If im not mistaken, eastwood use to sell a rust inhibitor solution and you could go over that with por 15. Im interested to see what others say.

I was thinking of tackling the same project this winter. My truck has some kind of undercoating on it which is failing. Im considering using my pressure washer with a sand blasting attachment rather than a wire wheel...that is going to take forever.

Since you have the bed off and you are doing a ta cover/shocks...why not remove the whole rearend and prep it as well?
 

Wile E. Coyote, Super Genius!
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With all the epa by going on I would leave it. Unless something really good happens for the country as a whole, California type crap as far as emissions go are coming sooner or later to the rest of the country.
I'm not sure that's ever going to affect Oklahoma. We haven't had smog or safety checks here since the mid 90s. I'm fairly certain THTB here know full well, there are a lot of poor folk who would never be able to get their vehicles, which haven't had to be smogged for a long time, to pass. EGR on mine is deleted, but I am keeping the junk, just in case. Too many idiots from CA move here and fuck up our way of life, then I suppose smog and safety could make a comeback.
 

10 second street truck
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With all the epa by going on I would leave it. Unless something really good happens for the country as a whole, California type crap as far as emissions go are coming sooner or later to the rest of the country.
Washington actually got rid of emissions. They determined that most cars were new enough and passed emissions the program wasn't effective.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was going to ask how you were going to treat your frame. If im not mistaken, eastwood use to sell a rust inhibitor solution and you could go over that with por 15. Im interested to see what others say.

I was thinking of tackling the same project this winter. My truck has some kind of undercoating on it which is failing. Im considering using my pressure washer with a sand blasting attachment rather than a wire wheel...that is going to take forever.

Since you have the bed off and you are doing a ta cover/shocks...why not remove the whole rearend and prep it as well?
I hadn't thought about doing anything with the rear end. Wonder if the same type of treatment would work for rear end that ima gonna use on the frame...

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regular joe
2002 True Blue
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I hadn't thought about doing anything with the rear end. Wonder if the same type of treatment would work for rear end that ima gonna use on the frame...

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It would. Since you are doing shocks, all youd have is parking brake, brake lines, driveshaft (might as well replace u joints), u bolts for leafs, and a couple of bolts in the rear for leafs to swing down. Probably an hr or two extra work. Only additional cost is brake fluid and ujoints. It will make changing the rear cover easier as well. Great time to change out rear brake lines if you are still running 20 year old stockers!

Trust me when i say: do everything you possibly can when the bed is off so you dont regret it later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Lol ya, I'm going to replace alot stuff. Power washed it and started removing stuff!

Removed the spare tire drop box, EVAP stuff, shocks, and gas tank. Tomorrow I'll remove the sway bar and center rubber brake line for the rear brakes. Strange but when I bought the stainless steel front brake lines it came with the center stainless steel section for the rear. The exhaust, which I'm going to try and sell. Magna flow cat back with about 10k miles. After all that, ill start working the frame and see what's out there to treat the surface rust.


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Wile E. Coyote, Super Genius!
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As I told you earlier, I have a pair of stock Bilsteins that still look new. Still hard as hell to compress. They're yours if you want them.
 

Wile E. Coyote, Super Genius!
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If I have a day off this weekend, I'll bring them by. I know you don't need them for awhile, but they're just cluttering up a corner of my garage.
 
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