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Discussion Starter #1
Wondering if anyone has had a similar experience and if they ever figured it out. When I just lay on it it does this weird skipping or jumping noise in full auto like something is preventing it from accelerating more. Is that a miss fire? Its really hard to describe other than a really fast and not so loud or hard backfire at a highly rapid rate. No codes, idles perfect and runs smooth. The boost valve functions properly according to what Ive read on here. Im wanting to say fuel injectors or plugs. There is a ticking noise coming from both passenger and driver side that is at a rhythmic pattern with the idle.
 

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2.9 Whipple E85R A1 Transmission
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Could be a number of things..
Water down the spark plug holes
Bad gas
Bad coil packs
Bad plugs
Fuel pressure
 

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11 second street truck
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It's a miss under load.
Pull the plugs and inspect.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Could be a number of things..
Water down the spark plug holes
Bad gas
Bad coil packs
Bad plugs
Fuel pressure
I use 93 on gas. It says on my dash to use premium only. Could that be causing a detonation issue? There's no mods other than an oil sep. Im pretty sure any tune on the PCM was erased by ford. I know I had the plugs changed about 8k miles ago and I change the oil myself as recommended religously. I don't change the plugs myself as changing these are much different than on my previous vehicles. I did all my own work on my last vehicle and it went smooth. Ive heard too many bad things about changing them yourself on these Im a little intimidated by it to be honest since its my daily and only. I do have tr6s laying around but Im not confident in it enough yet. Murphys law has it out for me lately for some reason.
 

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I use 93 on gas. It says on my dash to use premium only. Could that be causing a detonation issue? There's no mods other than an oil sep. Im pretty sure any tune on the PCM was erased by ford. I know I had the plugs changed about 8k miles ago and I change the oil myself as recommended religously. I don't change the plugs myself as changing these are much different than on my previous vehicles. I did all my own work on my last vehicle and it went smooth. Ive heard too many bad things about changing them yourself on these Im a little intimidated by it to be honest since its my daily and only. I do have tr6s laying around but Im not confident in it enough yet. Murphys law has it out for me lately for some reason.
First time I changed plugs it took me a couple of hours. With the right tools its not bad at all (Really just need a couple of extensions and swivels. I also bought a longer spark plug socket). If you decide to do it yourself, use motorcraft plugs. You don't need TR6's on a stock motor either. Pull the COP, swap plug after gapping it correctly, grease the tip of the coil, reinstall. I got a plug change down to 2 hours now and that's really just taking my time. Im sure that's still slow compared to others on here but it was a new record for me a couple of weeks ago 😂
 
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11 second street truck
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I use 93 on gas. It says on my dash to use premium only. Could that be causing a detonation issue? There's no mods other than an oil sep. Im pretty sure any tune on the PCM was erased by ford. I know I had the plugs changed about 8k miles ago and I change the oil myself as recommended religously. I don't change the plugs myself as changing these are much different than on my previous vehicles. I did all my own work on my last vehicle and it went smooth. Ive heard too many bad things about changing them yourself on these Im a little intimidated by it to be honest since its my daily and only. I do have tr6s laying around but Im not confident in it enough yet. Murphys law has it out for me lately for some reason.

I suggest you take it to a shop then.
 
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I’ve noticed the same thing in mine just changed coils and plugs last week seems better but still there at times. I can notice it more around 60mph WOT when it whines so I’m dropping mine off to a shop tomorrow to see what they think I will keep you updated when I find something out
 

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Discussion Starter #11
First time I changed plugs it took me a couple of hours. With the right tools its not bad at all (Really just need a couple of extensions and swivels. I also bought a longer spark plug socket). If you decide to do it yourself, use motorcraft plugs. You don't need TR6's on a stock motor either. Pull the COP, swap plug after gapping it correctly, grease the tip of the coil, reinstall. I got a plug change down to 2 hours now and that's really just taking my time. Im sure that's still slow compared to others on here but it was a new record for me a couple of weeks ago 😂
Kool and thank you. Ive been doing electrical work for a little over 3 years now. Will soon test for my license. So Im mechanically inclined and able to learn fairly easily. Vehicles are just new territory. This may sound like a dumb question, but where are the plugs located? I see the coil plug in packs.
 

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Kool and thank you. Ive been doing electrical work for a little over 3 years now. Will soon test for my license. So Im mechanically inclined and able to learn fairly easily. Vehicles are just new territory. This may sound like a dumb question, but where are the plugs located? I see the coil plug in packs.
Plugs are buried deep in the heads underneath the coil packs. It’ll be much easier to understand once you pull a coil. Yank the coil and put a plug socket in there (that’s why I use a deep well plug socket) and you’ll find the plug. The back plugs in each bank are a tad tricky but they’re doable.
Make sure you have an air line so you can blow out the plug galleys before pulling the plugs. You don’t want shit down in there, and you won’t be able to get it out
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Plugs are buried deep in the heads underneath the coil packs. It’ll be much easier to understand once you pull a coil. Yank the coil and put a plug socket in there (that’s why I use a deep well plug socket) and you’ll find the plug. The back plugs in each bank are a tad tricky but they’re doable.
Make sure you have an air line so you can blow out the plug galleys before pulling the plugs. You don’t want shit down in there, and you won’t be able to get it out
So the coil just pulls out with some convincing?
 

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My truck was doing the same thing and couldn't figure it out i replaced everything and had it tuned by jj and it was still layin over n could hear alil backfire type noise. So i removed the heads and found the plug holes had inserts and the bottoms were melted so im goin to say mine was detonation. Not sayin thats whats wrong with urs but worth getin a bore scope camera and looking.
 

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Got a call from the shop. I did not have them do a full run trough and tear it all down but he said he noticed the power kind of fall off up top on the big end after inspecting the truck everything seemed fine other then when they pulled the plugs they think it might be a spark issue. They were TR6s gapped at .36 he said to try gapping them between 28-30 and that will help and he also recommended swap to a BR6 or BR7 but I do not know if he is right or completely wrong so please someone with more spark plug experience feel free to help us out
 

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Got a call from the shop. I did not have them do a full run trough and tear it all down but he said he noticed the power kind of fall off up top on the big end after inspecting the truck everything seemed fine other then when they pulled the plugs they think it might be a spark issue. They were TR6s gapped at .36 he said to try gapping them between 28-30 and that will help and he also recommended swap to a BR6 or BR7 but I do not know if he is right or completely wrong so please someone with more spark plug experience feel free to help us out
What mods do you have then we can properly answer your question. If your stock then there’s no need for TR6 or BR7 and 28-30 would be way to tight for stock. Doesn’t sound like your shop has worked on a Lightning.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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11 second street truck
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A stock truck should have a tr5 and a .044 gap. A 6lb truck is a tr6 and a .034 gap. Beyond that it's up to the tuner. Gap gets tighter with boost.
 

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What mods do you have then we can properly answer your question. If your stock then there’s no need for TR6 or BR7 and 28-30 would be way to tight for stock. Doesn’t sound like your shop has worked on a Lightning.



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Yea that would probably help lol ported tb, cai, 6lb lower, MAF, jlp tune
 
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