Stifflers Longbars
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If you have high HP, you will have to weld the brackets to the axle to keep them from rolling during launch. Most other setups have the bracket centered under the 4 bolts of the leaf spring then an offset bracket for the front connection to frame. Stifflers bracket is offset slightly to the inside and only utilizes 2 of the spring bolts and the front bracket is centered directly to the frame.
I like mine a lot and Stifflers came out with a heavier duty rear bracket. I like the adjustable position options for the bars and changing and preloading them is simple. Good customer service and they stand behind their product. Best 60ft to date is 1.401.
I like mine a lot and Stifflers came out with a heavier duty rear bracket. I like the adjustable position options for the bars and changing and preloading them is simple. Good customer service and they stand behind their product. Best 60ft to date is 1.401.
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2,237 Posts
Yeah I gotcha guys. I just installed them and they're great! I have them just barely snug on there, I guess I should adjust the preload more tight, cause I can hear them clunk/squeak when I'm coming to a stop or driving up a driveway. I've re-torqued them 2 times already. They're bolted on right.
Other than the noise, man they're great! I can totally feel the difference.
Other than the noise, man they're great! I can totally feel the difference.
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3,701 Posts
They should not be making that much noise. When you preload them, just make them as tight as you can with your hand.
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2,237 Posts
Gotcha, I'll readjust. I remember I had them like this in the beginning but decided to loosen for whatever reason. Before when I had them tight it wasn't clunking. ?? I guess I thought they were too tight maybe.
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3,303 Posts
I’ll be installing my stifflers longbars soon. Are yours still noisy? Is there anything I should know before I install them? Other than weld the u bolts. I plan on using a 4 post drive on lift.
Thanks
-Kenny P-
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6,789 Posts
I don't think you will find much noise. The adjustable rod ends have seen improvements in the last couple of years. As far as preload, I would get the bars adjusted where you can slide the bolt through the bracket and rod end, tighten the bolt, and then tighten (add) about one twist of the bar. That should be good. There should not be a need to weld the bracket to the axle tube. If you have a higher hp truck, it tells you in the instructions to weld a stop to the axle to eliminate rotation of the bracket on the axle.
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3,303 Posts
Thanks,
What HP range would it be appropriate to weld the U bolts to the axle? I should be at 600hp on pump gas but I’m setup for e85 so will be making more power later on. :smt023
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If it were me, I'd go ahead and weld a stop on there. If you don't still have your instructions, you can download or view them at Stifflers (buystifflers.com) website. Feel free to reach out to me at any time for assistance or questions. :rockon_ford
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2,237 Posts
Install is pretty straight forward. Only time they clunk is while turning and hitting a dip or a driveway. Only while turning though.
Tips...
Use the open end of your wrench to tighten the frame bracket bolts. Or you will get the wrench stuck. Torque everything. And install the bars loose, tighten the bars with the truck on the ground, NOT in the air. That’s about it.
Tips...
Use the open end of your wrench to tighten the frame bracket bolts. Or you will get the wrench stuck. Torque everything. And install the bars loose, tighten the bars with the truck on the ground, NOT in the air. That’s about it.
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525 Posts
I ran into some issues with the LB length. But otherwise a great kit!
http://www.lightningrodder.com/foru...tifflers-long-bars-what-am-i-doing-wrong.html
http://www.lightningrodder.com/foru...tifflers-long-bars-what-am-i-doing-wrong.html
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1,594 Posts
Now that’s customer service at its finest right there!
OP, do you understand how to adjust suspension? If not, will you have someone at the track to help you? If not, why not get JLP bars that way there's no adjustments. Just install and go and at least 1.3 capable. More adjustment can lead to going the wrong way.
Here is a recent thread on traction bars: http://www.lightningrodder.com/forum/14-gen-2-lightnings/379369-traction-bars-opinions.html
I run neither. What i run? Doesnt matter here. Chose whatever option is best for you. Sometimes less adjustment is more. I dont even dial in my own truck. I dont know how. A lot of people fallow the crowd. If you search here and on nloc back nearly a decade you have a lot of bs post regarding some type used. Basically you will see people blame a particular part for their lack of being able to set up suspension and dial it in. Good luck on your choice.
Here is a recent thread on traction bars: http://www.lightningrodder.com/forum/14-gen-2-lightnings/379369-traction-bars-opinions.html
I run neither. What i run? Doesnt matter here. Chose whatever option is best for you. Sometimes less adjustment is more. I dont even dial in my own truck. I dont know how. A lot of people fallow the crowd. If you search here and on nloc back nearly a decade you have a lot of bs post regarding some type used. Basically you will see people blame a particular part for their lack of being able to set up suspension and dial it in. Good luck on your choice.
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6,789 Posts
There is a little bit of misconception here that the adjustment that is available on Stifflers bars is to "dial-in" your suspension to see quicker 60' times. The MAIN reason you see the adjustable rod ends is because it was felt that having a rod end that was solid vs a rod end with poly bushings was a better design. Could have just welded the rod ends on there instead of having a threaded end, but was felt the threaded end could be beneficial in bar fitment. An individual could play around with the preload on the bars and see how there truck would benefit, but it was determined that just adding one twist of the bar after install to preload them was sufficient. I hope this is of some benefit to the discussion.
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11,634 Posts
And that is how I told Ken to install them when we were chatting about it via text. Put them on with weight on the axle, as if it were sitting on the tires. Find the mid point of the threads on the heim joints and screw them in that much. And if any adjustment is needed, it would be to make the bars slightly longer, thus preload, and it wouldn't be much.
I have JLP's myself. But if I were to get Stiffler's, I'd install them the exact same way.
I'm probably wrong on the mid point of the heims though. Since any adjustment is going to be to make the bar longer, he probably needs to screw them in most of the way. Since under deceleration, there is a pulling motion on them.
I have JLP's myself. But if I were to get Stiffler's, I'd install them the exact same way.
I'm probably wrong on the mid point of the heims though. Since any adjustment is going to be to make the bar longer, he probably needs to screw them in most of the way. Since under deceleration, there is a pulling motion on them.
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3,303 Posts
I appreciate your input on this :bigtu
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If you have a Stiffler's brace, I think it would be wise to stick with their bars. Don't know this for a fact, but there are differences in length between the different bars. Other companies bars may be too short/long to work with that brace.
From your personal experience of dialing in a truck with stifflers long bars, did making changes to the preload alter how it launched and how well it hooked or didnt hook?
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