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Former Rowing Team.
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If I could do it all over and not lose a lot of money, I'd do that. I do not care for my bell tech drop spindles. So I'd do his lowers, one inch springs, and viking coil overs. And I have zero personal experience in them nor know of much feed back from them. But worth a shot since I'd be able to resell them for a good price if I didn't like them.
 

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Stiffler's guinea pig
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I will give you my very best and honest opinion. I am a dealer (and Stifflers has my truck now knocking out some new stuff), .....but I don't just try to sell something that people do not need. I have actually told people they don't need uppers...or something else...

If you are looking for the option that will provide the best handling, you can't beat the Ridetech coil overs. They have 3 spring weight options. You can also use their TQ series. You can get a LOT of weight out of the front of the truck with lowers AND coil overs. The uppers are pretty close in weight to the stock uppers.

If you cannot afford to go that route, you can feel comfortable going with the lowers and a good set of coil springs.

If you are going to drop your truck more than 2" in the front (the lowers automatically give you an inch), then I suggest lowers AND uppers. Otherwise, you are going to see uneven tire wear or not be happy with your alignment.

I would also suggest that by using the Stifflers lowers to drop the truck, you may very well be able to stay away from aftermarket drop spindles.

Do you have an x-brace on that Harley? An x-brace is a definite improvement on the Harley tucks (with an even longer wheelbase).

Hops this helps a bit. Jeff
 

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Former Rowing Team.
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If you are going to drop your truck more than 2" in the front (the lowers automatically give you an inch), then I suggest lowers AND uppers. Otherwise, you are going to see uneven tire wear or not be happy with your alignment.
This isnt actually correct. There are ways to lower the front more than 2" and get alignment in spec without stifflers uppers.


I aligned my own truck and many other vehicles. I did it for a living.
 

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This isnt actually correct. There are ways to lower the front more than 2" and get alignment in spec without stifflers uppers.


I aligned my own truck and many other vehicles. I did it for a living.
Same here, I've done alot of trucks that have been really low and set the alignment to where it needs to be. I do however suggest the Stifflers UCA's as the amount of adjustment is much better and I like to run alot more caster then normal for high speed stability. :bigtu More caster then you can typically get from the standard caster/camber eccentrics.

As far as Stifflers products go I sell and install most all that they offer and they work very well. Great quality, great customer service and great products and thats why WMS has been with them since the very beginning.

If I can help anyone with Stifflers parts or pricing hit me up at [email protected] We are having a tax refund sale and will do whatever we can to help you save a few bucks. :bigtu

JJ
 

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Former Rowing Team.
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I do however suggest the Stifflers UCA's as the amount of adjustment is much better and I like to run alot more caster then normal for high speed stability.
This is a good point. I personally do not understand how caster affects handling in that sense, i just understand how it makes it pull when you let go of the wheel. It took me a few tries and some testing to see how much caster i wanted so it wouldnt pull too much to the right with the road crown we have here. I no longer work there and i use another local shop to do my truck so it's not as easy to test as it used to be.

I assume you can get told what to set your stuff at then tell someone to do it but that cost time and money in a lot of cases. For most, that is overkill. But, at least the option to do it is there if you have the uppers.
 

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Former Rowing Team.
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No-one has this set up? How does Stiffler's even offer this set up if No-one bought it??
It's new. It''s very expensive. Most cant even afford a new trans nor engine when it blows so this $2500 mod isn't on their short list. It isnt needed and is over kill in most cases. It's just wanted. There's also other, cheaper ways to lower the front. Most dont care about control arm weight reduction. Most don't need extra caster/camber adjustment. And for me, it wasn't available when i redid my entire front end and bought $1200 shocks. Just a few reasons i can think of.


If you haven't, try posting on the LG Facebook group. There's tons more active members who aren't on here and try different things.
 

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This is a good point. I personally do not understand how caster affects handling in that sense, i just understand how it makes it pull when you let go of the wheel. It took me a few tries and some testing to see how much caster i wanted so it wouldnt pull too much to the right with the road crown we have here. I no longer work there and i use another local shop to do my truck so it's not as easy to test as it used to be.

I assume you can get told what to set your stuff at then tell someone to do it but that cost time and money in a lot of cases. For most, that is overkill. But, at least the option to do it is there if you have the uppers.
We used to get 11* of caster out of our old tubular control arms due to the fact that the fabricator relocated the ball joint 3/4 of an inch and trust me 11* of caster feels really nice especially at higher speeds. Mercedes uses alot of caster as well.

For the crown in the road as long as you give the RF wheel about 1/2 degree of caster lead you will be fine. I did alignments for 20+ years on all kinds of vehicles and thankfully the days of the "sliding control arms" on Chrysler products is way far in my rear view mirror...:bigtu:bigtu:bigtu

JJ
 

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Worlds Fastest Street HD Truck
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BUMP.


No-one has this set up? How does Stifflers even offer this set up if No-one bought it??
they trickled the stuff out there over several years, so folks that would have bought all this stuff have spent their mod money on it several times over waiting for everything to come out (i'm one of them lol). So in my case I never got just uppers, not wanting to change my setup at the time, to change it again when lowers came out. That took years, and now that they've been out for probably a year, I just haven't gotten to it with other mods going on. I plan to eventually.

I think there's only 1 other guy on here with the ridetech coil over setup, he had a thread recently.

Unless you're really looking for weight reduction, or want to lower it even more, or having problems with your current setup, your truck's stance is so nice, I probably wouldn't go about changing it all up. If you are looking for more, or shedding weight, etc. then it's a good setup to go with.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the feed back.

I've agreed to agree for,.. now. I just can't justify it without some form of positive feed back & Not Enough weight savings to consider.

*Maybe when the pricing comes down a bit.


:rockon_ford On to Big Brakes.
 

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Hey larry, come check everything out on my truck I’m not far away from you. Also talk to ted at tce performance before buying the brakes. He actually advised me against the 16 inch kit and told me to stick with the 15 inch kit. I will be road racing my setup as well. Mine should be ordered soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey larry, come check everything out on my truck I’m not far away from you. Also talk to ted at tce performance before buying the brakes. He actually advised me against the 16 inch kit and told me to stick with the 15 inch kit. I will be road racing my setup as well. Mine should be ordered soon.
Ill be in touch. :bigtu
 

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This isnt actually correct. There are ways to lower the front more than 2" and get alignment in spec without stifflers uppers.


I aligned my own truck and many other vehicles. I did it for a living.
do you mind sharing your alignment specs? i just have bell tech springs and camber bolts. thanks
 

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Former Rowing Team.
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do you mind sharing your alignment specs? i just have bell tech springs and camber bolts. thanks
I used the stock alignment specs for either an 03 or 04 lightning. It was Hunter software and a hunter rack. Nothing out of the ordinary. Like I said, I don't know enough to toy with it and understand the expected results.
 

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I used the stock alignment specs for either an 03 or 04 lightning. It was Hunter software and a hunter rack. Nothing out of the ordinary. Like I said, I don't know enough to toy with it and understand the expected results.
got it. so advise the tech to use MY 03-04 for alignment rather than my specific MY of 01.
 
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