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Weekend Welder
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304 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hope your ready to Rock DaHouse!!! :smt020

Heres a detailed description for the ultimate subwoffer box for your Lightning. As most of you know,
I was an acoustics engineer for a customs shop in Ocala FL before I joined the Navy. I have built award
winning boxes for all types of classes in the SPL world. I was a competitor in central Florida from 05' to 08'...
I ran a 1992 two door ford explorer with a 22cf slot ported wall with two Atomic APXX 18" woofers pumpin
6500 watts of shit your pants hittin an astounding 152.66DB Killin it....

I'm here to share my acoustical knowledge with you and give you the tools you need to construct a
bitchi'n box for your suprisingly limited space.

USE 5/8 MDF ONLY.... Anything thicker is a waste and extra weight...

Look at the photos below. I use a program called "Solidworks" to draft up my boxes and pretty much
everything... If you also use Solidworks I can send you the file for the build.

By looking at my uploaded photos, Yes, There is an extension in the middle of mine... And my port is firing upward.
Facing the port down gives a WAY cleaner hit and I would actually fire it down if I could do it over, but I wanted the
tiny bit of extra volume! I had to actually trim the console flush to be able to do this and I wanded the extra CF.
The basics of the box are shown in the photos it is up to you to customize your own build and this is how I did mine.
I store the amps under the box in between the "feet" to keep the wires hidden and maintain a clean appearance.
Ohh, I left the back wall of the enclosure out of the drawing so you can see how the inside
looks, so ADD A BACK WALL TO THE BOX!!!

Take in consideration the thickness factor of the material. The port is important, make sure to use wood
glue when constructing this enclosure on all seams. I perfer to use a brad nailer when dealing with MDF.
When using screws, its pretty much required that you drill pilot holes for each screw, and screws should
be spaced no farther than 8" apart. It is your choice to use carpet or a type of vinyl for the outer covering
of the enclosure. I perfer carpet (trunk liner) because in my oppinion it offers an extra bit of acoustical
deadning and helps eliminate caniness (subwoofer noise)... TAKE YOUR TIME... The woofers will share the
airspace and act as one large driver which in turn gives you more of your lower frequency, as low as 25HZ!!!... ENJOY
 

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Administrator
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Looks great for one running buckets. Got anything for stock seats needing full range of motion?(including center console pivot)

I just acquired a Thunderform, but would love something a bit tighter/cleaner sounding

Jim
 

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Panty Dropper
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5,908 Posts
Looks great for one running buckets. Got anything for stock seats needing full range of motion?(including center console pivot)

I just acquired a Thunderform, but would love something a bit tighter/cleaner sounding

Jim
X2 :bigtu
 

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Sweet
 

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Looks great for one running buckets. Got anything for stock seats needing full range of motion?(including center console pivot)

I just acquired a Thunderform, but would love something a bit tighter/cleaner sounding

Jim
X2, Also if you were to use a slim line sub, do you think you could have the subs face the rear of the cab? For instance, if you were to use the Jl 12TW3 (Link Attached for Specs) is it possible to not have the sub beat your back apart? Are those 12" Type S Subs?

http://www.jlaudio.com/12tw3-d4-car-audio-tw3-subwoofer-drivers-92185
 

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Slevin
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952 Posts
Thanks! Ill build something like this, but only for a single ten. Maybe mount the amp on the other side of the box.
 

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Weekend Welder
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304 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
X2, Also if you were to use a slim line sub, do you think you could have the subs face the rear of the cab? For instance, if you were to use the Jl 12TW3 (Link Attached for Specs) is it possible to not have the sub beat your back apart? Are those 12" Type S Subs?

http://www.jlaudio.com/12tw3-d4-car-audio-tw3-subwoofer-drivers-92185

The woofers in the specs you provided are awesome performing subs for our trucks. I would reccomend that you go with a duel 2ohm setup if they offer one because you can run the coils in series to perform @ 4ohms if you needed them to or you can set them up for high power and wire them up parallel right to the amp. Also, if your amplifier has a lower resistance rating than what your subs are wired to do then you risk frying your woofs...
 

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Slevin
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952 Posts
If you plan to use only one subwoofer, position the port on the opposite end of the enclosure, and double the port depth for best woofer performance.
I dont plan on buidling a ported box. I like the tight punchy bass from a sealed box and I want to be able to play down below 20 Hz.


Id make another 1/4 wave tline box, but I dont have the room. That thing was great, just too big and too heavy.
 

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Weekend Welder
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304 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I dont plan on buidling a ported box. I like the tight punchy bass from a sealed box and I want to be able to play down below 20 Hz.


Id make another 1/4 wave tline box, but I dont have the room. That thing was great, just too big and too heavy.

You will never efficiently get below 40hz with a sealed enclosure. Getting the low notes almost requires a vented enclosure. I can help you hit freqs that low if you want but, sealed is not the way to hit those low notes.
 

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I'm a little confused on what the bulge is on the front of the box in the center. Is this part of the port? And if you plan on putting the amps under the seats would you recommend taking the box to the floor?
 

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Dirty Rock....

I too used to be heavy into the SPL scene. Always suv's with 4 to 12x 15" subwoofers and like 9-16kw.

That said. I have a crazy idea of stuffing 2 15" subs sealed in my lightning. I have never ever been good at fiberglass but I figure I should be able to pull around 5 cubes glassed in with an open chamber and polyfill it should workout okay. I have ported 15's down to 2.5 cube actual airspace and with low tuning they perform exceptionally well on high power.

What do you think there is for airspace total back there? Amps would be under the seat and the seat shoved forward 2-3" or so. I am a short guy so plenty comfy for me.
 

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Can you draw up a ported box for like 2-10" with the stock seats and stock center seat with the pivet still being able to work? Very interested.
 

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El duderino
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13,077 Posts
Also, if your amplifier has a lower resistance rating than what your subs are wired to do then you risk frying your woofs...
uh, what? you sure about that? :bolt
 
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