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Discussion Starter #22

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Looks great. Im redoing the c notch that was done on my truck b4 i bought it. It looks like chicken s*** not nice stacked beads. Lol.
 

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I think your ideas all look pretty good.
my $.02 I would tweak your shock mounts to stand them up as straight as possible. Even factory is too layed back, you loose a massive amount of effectiveness in just a few degrees. Especially given the short amount of travel. Move the brackets to get them at least in the same arc of travel as the suspension.
Lastly I would round all the square corners, save you from knocking a hand or head into one of those sharp edges if you ever have to crawl under it as well as it will look much cleaner.
Keep up building.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Thank
Looks great. Im redoing the c notch that was done on my truck b4 i bought it. It looks like chicken s*** not nice stacked beads. Lol.
Thanks. Mine kinda looks like chicken s*** in alot of places but oh well im still learning. ????Im doin it all myself so im proud of it. Any idiot can just throw money at something.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I think your ideas all look pretty good.
my $.02 I would tweak your shock mounts to stand them up as straight as possible. Even factory is too layed back, you loose a massive amount of effectiveness in just a few degrees. Especially given the short amount of travel. Move the brackets to get them at least in the same arc of travel as the suspension.
Lastly I would round all the square corners, save you from knocking a hand or head into one of those sharp edges if you ever have to crawl under it as well as it will look much cleaner.
Keep up building.
Thank you also sir. I have considered moving them more up and down after CD mention it earlier in the thread. Im still contemplating it. Im just not sure its worth redoing to move them forward like 2 or maybe 3 inches. My truck is already pretty low( hence the c notch) so im not sure moving it wld make much of a differance at this point. I may look into it more after i get the frame boxed and my panhard bar mounted. So i can see how far forward i can move them without any clearance issues. Thanks again
 

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Thank you also sir. I have considered moving them more up and down after CD mention it earlier in the thread. Im still contemplating it. Im just not sure its worth redoing to move them forward like 2 or maybe 3 inches. My truck is already pretty low( hence the c notch) so im not sure moving it wld make much of a differance at this point. I may look into it more after i get the frame boxed and my panhard bar mounted. So i can see how far forward i can move them without any clearance issues. Thanks again
do some research on how the effectiveness of a shock changes for every degree you lay it over. Being low its especially important as you are working with less suspension travel. You want the shock to be able to control what little you have as best possible. I would shoot for as close to 90* as possible. Then take measurements as you may need a different length shock.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Ok, so i finished boxing in the frame. Put loc washers and nyloc nuts on the bolts before welding the inside. I like how it turned out. My welding is getting better also. Problems is my breaker is in the house and my 120v, 20 amp breaker wont let me weld for more than about an inch to an inch and a half at a time. This has been a burden the whole time with this project. Its kicked like 15 or 20 times now. Oh well. I also cut and reweld the shock mounts on top. Not real happy with how it turned out. I may scrap it all and redesign it. Heres some pics for the days work.
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Discussion Starter #29
Got a lil more time in the garage 2day. So i got my battery hold down fabbed up. I cld have made it look fancy and polished but its under the truck. Made it out of aluminum bar and some angle i had layin around(for weight savings???). Stainless hardware, but i gota order some longer bolts. Also locwashers and nyloc nuts aswell
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Discussion Starter #31
Good documentation of your progress man, neat job! Keep it up
Thanks. It would seem that im mostly doin it for myself. Aint had much response. But its ok. Just thought id share all of it just incase anybody else was interested. Still have more to do when time will allow. ???
 

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Thanks. It would seem that im mostly doin it for myself. Aint had much response. But its ok. Just thought id share all of it just incase anybody else was interested. Still have more to do when time will allow. ???
Keep it up man and have fun!
 

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Any issues with the driveshaft hitting the brace under the bed/cab? Looks to be a mark on the driveshaft. I have a similar mark lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Any issues with the driveshaft hitting the brace under the bed/cab? Looks to be a mark on the driveshaft. I have a similar mark lol.
Dude, same answer i gave u the 1st time u asked.....????. No, not that i know of. I havent seen any marks on anything above the drive shaft
 

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Clean work, definitely use the tip and round off all corners. Gives it a finished look and saves weight/injuries. You definitely should not have traction issues. For adding weight, you put it in the right places. Keep up the good work. Darrell
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Another small update, got to go play for a few min today so i tried out my new spring plates. They are way beefier than factory. I also ordered some 5/8" grade 8, 3.5x7.5 U bolts to go with them. Got them all on but because of the new plate thickness (3/8) the grade 8 hardware that came with my Stifflers longbars was 2 short to get a full nut worth of thread. Also the factory plates are a lil bent. So i ordered some 9/16 grade 5 flat U bolts that should work. ( I wld have went 5/8 grade 8 with these also but the stifflers brackets were only .577 wide so 9/16 is the biggest that wld go without modifiying the bracket.)Im going to mount the flat U on top of the spring plate(prolly if itll work). Heres some pics of factory vs the new. Thought i had some pics of em on but guess i forgot. Will add those later after the new flat U bolts get here. And incase anyone was wondering i got these plates off of Amazon. I will post a link later if i can
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Discussion Starter #38

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2.9 Whipple E85R A1 Transmission
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You might need some 2.75" top plates with those larger U-bolts.
For some reason, the leaf springs are wider at the back then the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I dont have side clearance problems. I have hardware length problems. Lol. What i had wld fit, the threads just would not go all the way through the deep nut. And i would prefer tjey do for strength reasons. Heres some pics with them mostly on. No inner hardware yet but its on the way.
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