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Discussion Starter #1
This will be along post guys as I did not update much as these project went along 7 plus months.

Well this project started in early March when I was off of work when Covid 19 hit(work was too slow and they laid a bunch of people off for 2 months)

It was originally suppose to be just a maintenance project, spark plugs, belts, oil change, turkey pan plug.

Turned out to be alot more !

This is what I completed to the truck during the project.

-Raptor electric fans with HD Circuitry (josh) wiring kit.
-HD Circuitry (josh) Big 3 wiring kit.
-Power master 220amp alternator
-SCT 2600 MAF
-97 Fuel rails
-Accufab adjustable regulator with gauge
-Aeromotive fuel sensor
-JJ @ woodbine with 60lbs fuel injectors, dual pumps, and tuning
-Hose Hustler hose kits for coolant crossover mod, intercooler. (97 fuel rails)
- JC customs intercooler billet tank lid
-Gates green belts
-NGK TR6 plugs
-AEM wideband
-HPS silicone intake couplings with clamps
-All new grade 12.9 Hardware, Black.
- Powder coated: lower intake, mid plate, pulley bridge and tensioners, MAF sensor housing, intercooler tank, misc. Brackets
-Painted valve covers and Whipple ford racing Blue.
-All new gaskets and fluid
-Re wire loomed top engine harness and other misc. wires.
-Whipple stickers from Sinks Built (Tom)
-Plastic engine parts smoothed and painted (rad cover, wiring covers, etc. Waiting to get them back)
-All new vacuum hoses
-New NAV water pump, all new pulleys.

Start:

540942

Started with removing supercharger to plug the turkey pan. Did it the hard way with lower intake still in place.
Completed the mod and a few days later I came to realize how dirty everything really looked. And that's where things went off the rails lol.

Started taking things apart and sent them for powder coating.
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540944

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Top off block was very dirty and rusted.. Cleaned it all up and painted what I could.

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Next up was the Raptor fans, wiring kit and big 3 kit. Josh kits are A1!

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540949

540951
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Powder coating pieces back!
540952

540953

Intercooler tank with JC customs billet lid. Had issues on the past with the shitty plastic lid. Leaked all over. This is a nice piece from JC.
540954

Powermaster 220 amp with powder coated casing.

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SCT ba2600 with powder coated housing.

Also relocated the power steering reservoir. Made some steel brackets and painted them. Just the hoses shorter. Much better having it tucked away.

540956


Painted stock valve covers. Used SEM textured paint along with ford racing Blue high temp. New gaskets as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
540957


Came up with new wiring loom covers as my old ones were cut up and pretty rough. Used wire track with double sided tape. They fit perfectly!

540958


Painted the Whipple ford racing Blue! Wanted something a little different. All new black hardware as well. New stickers from SINIS built (Tom). Had he custom make these so that they fit the spot made for the sticker better. Stock ones fell off and were too small.

Also changed the supercharger fluid and cleaned intake elbow. Was not much oil in it so catch can is working!

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Lower intake put together with turkey pan plug and coolant crossover mod from Hose Hustler. 97 fuel rails, 60lbs Injectors, gauge.
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Started to put things back together!
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Also re loomed the top engine harness. This was annoying lol.

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Everything pretty much back on the truck. I think it all turned out well. Still have a great things to adjust and tidy up.

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Truck moved out of the garage under its own power for the first time in 7 months!

Had an issue starting it. Turned out I mixed up 2 wires on the throttle body sensor connector. After switching them around, started right up.

However I have a few issues. Have to send JJ my first drive around the block data log to see if things are okay.

The truck idles pretty high. I did re paint the throttle body. Did disassemble it. I think the throttle blade may be getting hung up. Going to take it apart and check. I initially did not touch the idle set screw.. but then adjusted it a bit. Seemed to help but still idles to high.

Second and bigger problem is that when I went for the first drive, Truck would not shift into second. Didn't want to go that high on the rpms but it just wouldn't shift.

Anyone have any ideas? I started to check the engine harness that I re loomed as I did have to de pin the 2 big connectors. Figured maybe I mixed a pin up again. Going to finish checking that tonight.

Think it's an issue with the tuning/pcm?

Never had a problem before with shifting.

Error codes that came up:
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Some are because of EGR. I did delete it a long time ago. I'll have JJ turn those off in the tune..

If anyone has and suggestions or questions, let me know.

Would like to get the truck running properly and shifting so I can get a proper data logo to JJ.

Thanks guys.
 

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11 second street truck
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10,809 Posts
High idle and not shifting leads me to believe there is a still a tps issue. Datalog it and see what the trucks seeing
 

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11 second street truck
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10,809 Posts
P0106 - baro sensor. When doing am egr delete you have to keep that.

P1121 is a tps code. Verify everything is good. Datalog it with the truck off. Watch the counts or volts while you open and close it.

1401/1409 are egr related. Jj will clear them
 
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Discussion Starter #9
P0106 - baro sensor. When doing am egr delete you have to keep that.

P1121 is a tps code. Verify everything is good. Datalog it with the truck off. Watch the counts or volts while you open and close it.

1401/1409 are egr related. Jj will clear them
I'll look into somethings tonight and post what I find.
 

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Pilsung
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Dusten’s info is great! 👍🏻

The PCM uses an Output Shaft Speed (OSS) sensor and TPS for proper shifting points. The OSS is in the transmission for vehicle speed, it's on the left side of transmission in the extension housing. If you de-pinned the connectors, ensure you back probe and check for continuity and verify the pins. When we deal with vehicles at work that have had rats hang out in the engine bay we literally check every connector.
 

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2.9 Whipple E85R A1 Transmission
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11,211 Posts
Got any pictures of where you drilled the drivers side for the cross over, what size did you use?

Marty
 

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11 second street truck
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IF you want i can post a screenshot of a datalog of proper TPS signal
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Got any pictures of where you drilled the drivers side for the cross over, what size did you use?

Marty

Marty,
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Got this set off Amazon for dirt cheap. Can't remember the price though. Worked perfectly! 1/2 NPT tap and 23/32" drill bit.

Drivers side. (Don't mind the fittings. Was going to go the cheap route until I saw Tim @hose hustler made a kit with AN fittings)

541011

Used high heat in JB weld to fill the voids. Sanded the top smooth. Took a bunch of measurements and coloured in where the opening was on the gasket to make sure the hole would be within the gasket outline.
Drilled a pilot hole first and then
drilled through and taped.

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Passenger side you cut of the metal tube that is pressed in there and just drill the rest out and tap. Pretty easy compared to the drivers side.

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Used Loctite 565 to seal the threads.
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Hope this helps!
 

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11 second street truck
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Here is a log from live link. Trucks off. At the start and end you see it flat line, that would be idle. 197 counts. basically 195-200 is good. then i sweep it to wot and back down, and up and down again. if you're not seeing something similar, the truck isn't reading the tps correctly.
541018
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That helped a ton, Thanks!

Is this the stuff?

Yes sir! Just follow the directions and you'll be good.

Other option is to have some one weld a fitting in for you but I heard things of it possibly warping the intake and other crap so I didn't want to go that route.. and I didn't have a welder haha.
 

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Really dig the progress you've made. Great job!
 
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