Pulling blower and jlp powerflow
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Pretty straight forward. Pull the intake tube and filter housing off. Undo the hoses under the powerflow and the bypass. Undo throttle cable and return spring. Remove the eight bolts that hold the blower down and it should come right out. Undo ic lines and pull the four back bolts on the lower intake plate and lift the plate and ic out. Reinstall the reverse.
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5,911 Posts
You'd be surprised.NO! Really? You got to take the belt off to remove the blower? Who'da thunk it?
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Very poor attempt at humor. I know. :ahhhh
Yes, I've done unimaginable things myself. :scared003
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14,645 Posts
plenum stays on the blower so it's pretty straightforward. as already mentioned, pop the intake elbow off, tb cable/backet, belt, any vac lines, IAC and TPS plug, and 8 bolts for the blower to midplate.
Well I didn't need to pull blower. Rubber pcv gromey on bottom of thunder pipe got sucked in but I found it sitting behind the throttle body right inside plenum, not shredded up at all.. Got real lucky. I did get eve thing apart though. But I have a question. How the **** are you supposed to get the last 2 nuts off under the powerflow?? On mine there nuts, not a bolt like the front. It's a weird size like 16 or 17mm. Is there a trick? No socket or wrench will reach with any pulling power.
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14,645 Posts
those are studs because you cant fit a bolt down. The plenum has to be installed on the blower before installing the blower on the truck, so you can't drop bolts in. So the powerflow requires 3 studs, so you can drop the blower down onto them, then thread the nuts on. You need to use a 17mm open end wrench to get them off, but since they're jamb nuts on standard all-thread, the all-thread typically distorts the threads when the jamb nut is cranked down, and locks on the stud, so they'll usually loosen the entire stud when you go to loosen the jamb nut. Then you have to squeeze needle nose channel locks to grab the stud beneath the jamb nut once it's up far enough, to get the jamb nut free'd off, then you have to thread the all-thread stud back down by hand, and usually the sharp edges slice fingers lol.
Long story short I cursed at those one too many times and finally ditched all the blower hardware for ARP. Now I have 8 ARP head studs that match the thread pitch of the stock bolts, and run ARP 12 point nuts. The ARP studs have an allen hex in the tops, so I can lock the stud in place from moving while I loosen the ARP bolt with a 13mm ratcheting open end. Works 1,000x's easier. It's like $100 in hardware though, and you have to run an IC spacer or the studs will be too long. Worth it all IMO though!
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For what it is worth, I contacted ARP sometime ago and they have a slightly shorter version of the same bolts you used Josh that work if you aren't using the IC spacer.
I have searched and searched and can't come up with the numbers for them since everything was done over the phone. When I contacted them I told them what I had in hand and that I needed them .XX shorter and they came up with a part number.
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14,645 Posts
I assume you mean spacer between the midplate and lower intake. the JLP/2.6 combo doesn't use any spacer between the blower and plenum
Yes, correct sir!
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3,004 Posts
Look Here http://www.lightningrodder.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2032942&postcount=406
My notes on the bottom are from before I found shorter ARP bolts to work without a spacer plate.
With your 2.6 you can use the ARP bolts in locations where you don't need the studs. When you get into the "Fat" LB superchargers like the 3.6 etc. then you need studs in every location because the supercharger is too wide to drop a bolt in the hole.
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