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Discussion Starter · #1 ·






The Lightning Gods were berry berry good to me
Don't think it had "1 More" 1320 in it [smilie=eek4.gif] :shock: [smilie=eek4.gif]
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Pretty scary aint it JJ :LOL
And the last thing I did with it, was made (2) 11 sec passes
good thing I didn't go for #3 that day [smilie=eek4.gif]
 

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WOW!!!!! [smilie=eek4.gif]Yes,you are one lucky guy Rob.Thats pretty nutzzzzzz.But why is the question?Whats gonna be differnet to protect your investment?The werar on your engine has me kind of worried.Do you think its excessive timming?The nitrous?My guess is both,maybe some unheard detonation causing vibrations in the crankshaft.Did you go with an aftermarket harmonic balancer this time?Your setups definately in good hands now,lets just hope a reoccurance of what we are seeing now wont happen again,but something has to change.What?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
chimshady1 said:
WOW!!!!! [smilie=eek4.gif]Yes,you are one lucky guy Rob.Thats pretty nutzzzzzz.But why is the question?Whats gonna be differnet to protect your investment?The werar on your engine has me kind of worried.Do you think its excessive timming?The nitrous?My guess is both,maybe some unheard detonation causing vibrations in the crankshaft.Did you go with an aftermarket harmonic balancer this time?Your setups definately in good hands now,lets just hope a reoccurance of what we are seeing now wont happen again,but something has to change.What?
J
I ask myself the same question over and over  :sad:
Whats going to stop it from happening again???  :smt102
And where do I put the blame ???  :smt017

My guess and answers are this:
Better Choice of Oils, Better Oil Pump, and Less RPM Shift Points, hopefully will keep bearing #7 alive and well this time around ???

I got to assume I had NO DETONATION since I got 3 race season on the same set of plugs, (that looked quite nice even after all that time)

Then I have to believe that new Performance Bearings, a re-polished Crank, and properly set clearances will do the rest ????

AND MOST IMPORTANT, "THE BALANCING" (as you know, this could make a world of Diff on a built Motor) your also the only one here that personally knows Rich and his Motor Shop. That
means you know my Motors NOW RIGHT (maybe for the first time)  ;)

If I had to point the finger somewhere, I will point it at the extremly high shift points I had for @ 2 years, one particular night comes to mind when a new Chip wasn't sitting in the puter right, and it pinned the tach and still didn't shift, (I did a post a couple of years back on it, "Stretching the Rods" hehehehe) I was spraying with Zex 75 HP that night and it scared the ever living schitt out of me when it happened, I def thought I cooked something ???
And again, untill I did the FTVB the shift points would see 6K regularly.

Then there was that day of the 3 plug Melt Down at Long Island Motorsport Park, the Filter Clogged, I hit someone elses Anti-Freeze, broke lose, hit the limiter (I had one back then) melted 3 plugs and detonated like a SOB. Sounded like 8 sledge hammers banging away for a few seconds there. I swore the truck never ran the same after that day, (but ET's have always been there, so life went on). All those issues are now in the past TG.

Who knows when the initial damage took place ??? Could have been the day I bought it, could have been any of those nights the Tach pinned 6K before shifting ??? That happened time after time for @ 2 years, (was finally fixed with a FTVB).

Bro I wish I had the answers, I only know it's better than new now, and I have to have faith on the new set up and tuning. If I can get another 3 years out of the Motor (like this one)
I'll be more than happy....
 

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Rob,
You are surprising me with some of your knowledge. Nitrous doesn't wear a motor for many reasons. High rpm does along with bad clearances, etc. Rob has mentioned all the precautions taken to have a better built motor and there should be no worries for the power level he intends to run now. Look at all the JDM motors that run high power and have many miles on them. The stock motor is mass produced and will have many flaws. Any properly built motor to the extent that some of the Lightning tuners are going to should not have problems period, unless of a faulty part or improper assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ryan,

I never got to see that, maybe Sal will pop in and comment on it ???

But if you look at the back of the bad Bearing it's fine, no spinning occured YET.
It was clearly a journal / lack of oiling issue that screwed the crank side up #*@#[email protected]$#@($%@$




One with the flash on (the flash makes it look worse, it picks up every entire little scratch and intensifies it) the backs were fine



Here's one of the Bad Side, no flash / untouched
(the lines aren't as intense, HOWEVER there is no doubt what was happening)
 

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If your bearings have a blue hue to them, then its an oiling issue, but from what I can tell on the pictures, your damage was done by debris, not lack of oiling.

Very small particles act like suspended sand in the oil and right where your marks on the bearing are is the oil passage, what it does is grind away at the bearing surface.

I recently tore a motor down to be sent out and it had 80k miles on it, the bearings looked like new because the owner and myself were religious about not only changing the oil, but using a good filter as well. The Ford filters suck IMO. Not enough media. I use K&N.

We also changed the oil before every race just to be safe. Mobil One was used exclusivley from 1000 miles.

This truck also had about 300 1/4 mile passes on it and has run a best of 11.20 all motor.

What were your oil change intervals Rob? and what filter were you using?

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Ryan Allen said:
LOL, Wix makes them all.  They're all the same.  NAPA = K&N
Do what I have done Ryan, Cut them all in 1/2 and see the amount and quality of the media inside, then make an educated decision on what filter you want to run.

I have cut in 1/2 about 20 different brands of filters, from OE to Grease n Go's cheapo's, you would be suprised what you find.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
JJ you are 100% correct about the filters
I once used a POS Fram, and my Truck tapped in the morning, found out from Sal about the spring and ball thingy inside GOOD filters have, and Fram DON'T.
Without it, your Filter drains down over night and you start the motor with no oil in the filter. I took it out the second day, looked inside a Mobile 1 and saw the check valve,
been using only Mobile 1 Filters ever since.

OK NO YELLING I KNOW I F-k up with the last oil change (@^$%*@#$%(@#$
YA I TRUSTED FORD
#R$T#(RW(R^#(R$%#(R$%(#R$%(#$R%(#%

1st oil change = Jiffy Lube [smilie=eek4.gif] :shock: [smilie=eek4.gif]
Pennzoil Fully Syn 5w30
@ 2,907


2nd oil change = ME
PZL Fully Syn 5w30
@6,123

3rd oil change = Me
Mob 1 5w30 Syn
9,416

Last oil change = Me (SWITCHED TO FORD OIL)
Motorcraft 5w20 Syn - Blend
12,004
THIS MAY HAVE BEEN MY DEATH (thin like water)

(mob 1 Filters the whole way through)


you know me, always trying new things @$*@%[email protected]*$


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API Service SJ / EC
Gravity, ºAPI 35.0
Specific Gravity, @ 60ºF (15.5ºC) 0.852
Density, lb/gal 7.10
Flash Point, COC, ºF(ºC) 365(185)
Viscosity:
cSt @ 40ºC 49
cSt @ 100ºC 8.8
Viscosity Index 161
HT/HS Viscosity, cP @ 150ºC 2.65
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Sulfated Ash, Wt. % 0.94
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ASTM Color 4.0
 
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