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02 lightning/03 cobruh
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright. So. Thought we had it sorted out from my last time I spoke on this, but the next day I ended up having the same exact problem again. So I got frustrated af with it and ended up towing it to a shop. They do good work and I'm grateful they even looked at it, but looks like I still got some things to figure out left. I gotta get more info from them when I go down today.

My maf is a sct 2600 brand new from JJ, so is the cam sensor I got it a couple months back from Ford dealership, and the ECU was tested by a reputable ECU repair guy. I plan on bringing another sensor from another truck I had, swap OEM maf, and should I go back to the startup tune I got from jj or how should I tackle this? I have a ECU from a HD, if I swap the odometer part from the cluster it should work in my truck right? And then I have to pay sct again to unlock my device?

i bypassed the resistor that was by the ic pump, could that have anything to do with this? This is so crazy i should have been running a long time ago lol.
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Man sucks to hear you are still dealing with this shit. By any chance, did you ever replace the TPS sensor? And set it correctly at 196-201? Also, maybe could be a timing issue… maybe the cams where not degreed right. Hope you get this figured out, it sucks when you are wasting time/money running in circles.
 
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10 second street truck
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Alright. So. Thought we had it sorted out from my last time I spoke on this, but the next day I ended up having the same exact problem again. So I got frustrated af with it and ended up towing it to a shop. They do good work and I'm grateful they even looked at it, but looks like I still got some things to figure out left. I gotta get more info from them when I go down today.

My maf is a sct 2600 brand new from JJ, so is the cam sensor I got it a couple months back from Ford dealership, and the ECU was tested by a reputable ECU repair guy. I plan on bringing another sensor from another truck I had, swap OEM maf, and should I go back to the startup tune I got from jj or how should I tackle this? I have a ECU from a HD, if I swap the odometer part from the cluster it should work in my truck right? And then I have to pay sct again to unlock my device?

i bypassed the resistor that was by the ic pump, could that have anything to do with this? This is so crazy i should have been running a long time ago lol. View attachment 546583
If you put the stock maf back you'll need to load a stock tune.
You can verify the maf with a simple datalog. No need for a shop.
 

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02 lightning/03 cobruh
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Man sucks to hear you are still dealing with this shit. By any chance, did you ever replace the TPS sensor? And set it correctly at 196-201? Also, maybe could be a timing issue… maybe the cams where not degreed right. Hope you get this figured out, it sucks when you are wasting time/money running in circles.
Thanks man, my ex definitely put some voodoo, whammy on me lol. All I want for Christmas is to be running 🤣. No I didn't change the sensor actually. Yea I'll order one tonight actually might as well.

I am getting a bcm fault also.

Buuuut also I'm losing fuel pressure now too😭. It's not leaking so I gotta drop the tank again. But luckily I have two brand new walbros in my OEM hat that I never got to use yet. Those should be fine right in the triple pump hat? I forget what pumps are with the fore setup...it's never ending.
 

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02 lightning/03 cobruh
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you put the stock maf back you'll need to load a stock tune.
You can verify the maf with a simple datalog. No need for a shop.
It's already at the shop actually. It's been there for a few days now. The said after testing everything, they think the maf is no good too. I bought that maf new to so idk why all my parts are breaking 😂.
I would love to get a data log but my issue is that it's not running long enough to do so.

They asked me to go down today to see if the OEM maf and a different tune would change anything. So I uploaded my startup tune but with OEM maf, and it was losing pressure fast and there's no leaks. Could that be related to the OEM maf? They just wanted me to try the OEM maf because they said the sct maf wasn't testing good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You bypassed the fuel pump resistor? Why? JJ can do that with a tune.
Hmm good question I think we thought it was faulty or something, honestly it was a while ago and I'm forgetting the reason but it was before all this other stuff happened. Isn't it ok to bypass it?I still have it if anything.
 

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10 second street truck
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Hmm good question I think we thought it was faulty or something, honestly it was a while ago and I'm forgetting the reason but it was before all this other stuff happened. Isn't it ok to bypass it?I still have it if anything.
Bypassing it causes the pumps to run at 12v full time.
The truck controls fuel pressure by using the resistor to vary voltage. It can cause issues especially if you don't have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Even if you do you can over run the stock return line and lose the ability to control fuel pressure.

It doesn't need to idle to check the maf. Datalogging with your foot on the gas is fine.

Your startup tune, if it was a tune for the sct maf won't work with the OEM maf.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Bypassing it causes the pumps to run at 12v full time.
The truck controls fuel pressure by using the resistor to vary voltage. It can cause issues especially if you don't have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Even if you do you can over run the stock return line and lose the ability to control fuel pressure.

It doesn't need to idle to check the maf. Datalogging with your foot on the gas is fine.

Your startup tune, if it was a tune for the sct maf won't work with the OEM maf.
Ok that's good to know I didn't know the truck didn't have to be on to data log the maf.
I do have a fore return setup already.

I had another issue popup. At the shop I was swapping tunes and when i was priming the pumps I noticed my fuel pressure dropping now lol. Theres no leaks, so I'm guessing I have to drop the tank again. I can't believe the pumps are bad already. I have another set of 255s on my old hat I never used yet. I guess I gotta swap that first. Is there any way that it's because of the OEM maf I had on and I tried to start it with a different tune with the OEM maf? Because it was holding pressure fine until I tried to start it with the OEM maf tune the other day. Right after that I noticed I was loosing pressure at the rails.

I'm still getting the cam sensor code again. I'm going to swap the cam sensor I got at ford again when they open. The shop said the cam sensor was bad but it was a new sensor.

Should the idle air controller be something I should be looking at too?

Thanks for the help guy's
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I agree with what dusten said. I had the fuel pump resistor problem with my truck. It can be bypassed at the relay but thats mainly just to get it home. Or bypass it in a tune with diff rails and a regulator. I think this has more to do with your problem than you think.
You know what it probably is something boneheaded like that im overlooking . It's something I totally forgot about, I forgot why we did it. I think we weren't getting power to the relays and thought it was the resistor or something but it turned out to be a bad ground by the passenger side kick panel. I'm glad you guys mentioned it. I was reading guys do the dual resistor mod, should I be doing that to or just do back to the one..do you think it's better having it shut off in the tune or splicing it back in?

Thanks
 

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10 second street truck
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Ok that's good to know I didn't know the truck didn't have to be on to data log the maf.
I do have a fore return setup already.

I had another issue popup. At the shop I was swapping tunes and when i was priming the pumps I noticed my fuel pressure dropping now lol. Theres no leaks, so I'm guessing I have to drop the tank again. I can't believe the pumps are bad already. I have another set of 255s on my old hat I never used yet. I guess I gotta swap that first. Is there any way that it's because of the OEM maf I had on and I tried to start it with a different tune with the OEM maf? Because it was holding pressure fine until I tried to start it with the OEM maf tune the other day. Right after that I noticed I was loosing pressure at the rails.

I'm still getting the cam sensor code again. I'm going to swap the cam sensor I got at ford again when they open. The shop said the cam sensor was bad but it was a new sensor.

Should the idle air controller be something I should be looking at too?

Thanks for the help guy's
The iac is dataloggable like all sensors. You said the truck stays running if your holding the gas?
 

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You should only have the one fuel pump resistor hooked up. If its good then it shouod work how its suppose to. If someone bypassed it, as in they tied the wires together or jumped the relay, i would undo that. Could be wet, corroded or just a bad bypass job and that could cause some fuel pressure issues and idle issues. You can jump it at the relay so you know both pumps are on and start the truck to sew if it idles any different. Relay is next to brake resevior. Id start with that. If truck does start and drive better remember this is not a permanent fix.
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02 lightning/03 cobruh
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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
What were you doing with the truck just before all of this started?
New motor. Did a battery relocate, wire tuck, and Whipple on cookie cutter short block. Absolutely no miles on it so far. I've got a upgraded alternator, which in the first video it's not hooked up but ran for a couple minutes on first startup. I did walbros and kept blowing the stock regulator.

So we re did the fuel system and went with fore setup. Fuel pressure is at 40psi and was holding fine until the other day when I went to the OEM maf.
In the second part of the video, that's when we out the accessory belt on and that's when it started throwing the cam code. That's pretty much it. Replaced sensor same thing. If MAF is unplugged and cam sensor is unplugged it'll run and it's not misfiring.

I thought we figured it out and traced it to a bad ground but the next Day, same exact problem again. Cam shaft sensor circuit. The shop it was at said they swapped another sensor from a lightning that was there in and it ran. I brought one from a HD I have but it threw the same code again. Battery relocate was from Josh. I redid all the grounds again to make sure it's not that. I have a new OEM motorcraft battery but I think the constant charging and voltage drop has done it in and have a yellow top I'm for now till I get the OEM battery swapped out.

I thought it was the alternator at first because it only popped up after the belt was hooked back up and the fuel system was holding 40 at rails and at regulator. Both were done at the same time.

JJ said bypassing the fuel pump resistor is fine. But I might as well try and put it back i guess.




 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yea we did that. JJ has the pumps s
You should only have the one fuel pump resistor hooked up. If its good then it shouod work how its suppose to. If someone bypassed it, as in they tied the wires together or jumped the relay, i would undo that. Could be wet, corroded or just a bad bypass job and that could cause some fuel pressure issues and idle issues. You can jump it at the relay so you know both pumps are on and start the truck to sew if it idles any different. Relay is next to brake resevior. Id start with that. If truck does start and drive better remember this is not a permanent fix. View attachment 546593
JJ has the pumps to run in the tune. I hear the pumps kick on and I prime it twice before starting. It was holding at 40psi until the other day when I swapped the OEM maf in and tried to start it. After that, my pressure at the rails drops really fast now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yea we did that. JJ has the pumps s
You should only have the one fuel pump resistor hooked up. If its good then it shouod work how its suppose to. If someone bypassed it, as in they tied the wires together or jumped the relay, i would undo that. Could be wet, corroded or just a bad bypass job and that could cause some fuel pressure issues and idle issues. You can jump it at the relay so you know both pumps are on and start the truck to sew if it idles any different. Relay is next to brake resevior. Id start with that. If truck does start and drive better remember this is not a permanent fix. View attachment 546593
JJ has the pumps to run in the tune. I hear the pumps kick on and I prime it twice before starting. It was holding at 40psi until the other day when I swapped the OEM maf in and tried to start it. After that, my pressure at the rails drops really fast now.
 

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Dustin said this-
Your startup tune, if it was a tune for the sct maf won't work with the OEM maf. Sounds like this is your problem. Did you have 2 different maf on the same tune?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Dustin said this-
Your startup tune, if it was a tune for the sct maf won't work with the OEM maf. Sounds like this is your problem. Did you have 2 different maf on the same tune?
I only swapped it to the OEM maf because tbe shop was saying all signs were pointing to bad maf. I did not put tube to stock with oem maf. I figured it would be okay to just startup but it didn't do anything at all. I'm going to put the sct back on since I can't swap tune and maf to OEM with the return setup right?
 
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