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Former Rowing Team.
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another thing is weight distribution. I believe that’s important and will be relocating battery and installing either a 5 gallon or 7.5 gallon ice box with built in rule pump.

also looking into aerospace brakes but not sure if they are “street worthy” as I tend to drive my truck on the daily as much as possible. I love these trucks.
How are your charge temps currently when at the track? Are you packing the resi full of ice before a pass?

As much as i love how clean a battery relocate looks, it's a pita to get to my battery with the ruslow tray.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
How are your charge temps currently when at the track? Are you packing the resi full of ice before a pass?

As much as i love how clean a battery relocate looks, it's a pita to get to my battery with the ruslow tray.
My temps started with 70 degrees. I believe at the end of run they where 130? Can’t remember. I really do need to datalog I just always forget to. But yes I pack it with as much ice my JLP street res can hold!

i have the big 3 upgrade done. Maybe it’s going to be removed with relocation kit. I just don’t want so much weight up front. Especially the ice box since under hood temps are killer.
 

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Stock Block [email protected]
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Yank those stock springs out and put some drag springs in there.... then your 10 will come!!!! you will probably drop that 60 by half a second....
 

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I will have to up the PSI. Been told already a couple times lol.

i would guess track prep was decent? Don’t know much about that. All I know is my truck spins a lot but multiple factors to consider. I thought with 800HP+ easy 10s but everyone forgets I live high up in the sky.

And also nice run man! I need to focus on losing weight
Thanks, you have to consider, you are making 800+ at your elevation. If you were to say make a pass at my track you would be making more power due to better conditions. So with 800+ there shouldn't be a problem knocking on 10.2s. Some dyno's read high and some read low, that's kind of the reason why I have never had mine on the dyno. I think you have several things going on. Going by your trap speed there is something wrong with the truck, its pulling timing or something is going on for it to trap 120-122. Usually when you spin really bad on the 60' it will increase your trap speed but not decrease your e.t.

Though I am not a expert, like mentioned usually trucks will have more timing out of the hole and that's what is needed to get these things to 60' and 1/8 mile good. Both being the most important part of the run, I would focus running 1/8th mile and getting the lowest number possible. If you spin on the 60' or shifting is funky abort the run. No use in stressing the truck through the 1/4 just to run a number that you probably wont be happy with.

I can see what you are trying to say. It definitely has to do with multiple variables and the best thing to do is find someone local who could help me dial my specific combo at the track. Track prep, weather, tire, air pressure all have to be working together for a good pass as I’ve come to learn and try to understand. I by no means live at the track and that is why it has not been as easy and getting there and running my number. It takes a lot more than power and if I end up spraying it’s just a bandaid fix. I’m definitely going to look into loosing A LOT of weight, getting my suspension components on, run my from 15in bogarts and go to the track and continue to learn with trail and error.

another thing is weight distribution. I believe that’s important and will be relocating battery and installing either a 5 gallon or 7.5 gallon ice box with built in rule pump.

also looking into aerospace brakes but not sure if they are “street worthy” as I tend to drive my truck on the daily as much as possible. I love these trucks.
Bring that tire pressure up like mentioned. Use a piece of sidewalk chalk and mark a line on the tire near the valve stem so you can see if the tire is rotating on the wheel or not. Move some weight to the rear to help you, which I plan on moving the battery to the bed or under the bed one of these days. Aerospace brakes, not sold on them yet for a street truck. My truck is 95% street, 5% race(on the street and at the track). Don't bother spraying it yet until you can figure out 1/8th mile. Also check pinion angle.
 
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I ran 20 psi in my MTs .. you’re not supposed to do a huge burn out Just watch them till you see a little smoke come off them .. need some weight transfer to make it hook
 

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Open tailgate to move weight a bit rearward. Air up those radials. They do not like to be run low. Learn to roll into the pedal to keep traction if your timing curve is too aggressive for the prep.

Weight reduction and placement will yield better results. But there is no reason you can't run better as it sits.


Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Yank those stock springs out and put some drag springs in there.... then your 10 will come!!!! you will probably drop that 60 by half a second....
I’m hoping it’s that easy! We will see in the coming month
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Thanks, you have to consider, you are making 800+ at your elevation. If you were to say make a pass at my track you would be making more power due to better conditions. So with 800+ there shouldn't be a problem knocking on 10.2s. Some dyno's read high and some read low, that's kind of the reason why I have never had mine on the dyno. I think you have several things going on. Going by your trap speed there is something wrong with the truck, its pulling timing or something is going on for it to trap 120-122. Usually when you spin really bad on the 60' it will increase your trap speed but not decrease your e.t.

Though I am not a expert, like mentioned usually trucks will have more timing out of the hole and that's what is needed to get these things to 60' and 1/8 mile good. Both being the most important part of the run, I would focus running 1/8th mile and getting the lowest number possible. If you spin on the 60' or shifting is funky abort the run. No use in stressing the truck through the 1/4 just to run a number that you probably wont be happy with.


Bring that tire pressure up like mentioned. Use a piece of sidewalk chalk and mark a line on the tire near the valve stem so you can see if the tire is rotating on the wheel or not. Move some weight to the rear to help you, which I plan on moving the battery to the bed or under the bed one of these days. Aerospace brakes, not sold on them yet for a street truck. My truck is 95% street, 5% race(on the street and at the track). Don't bother spraying it yet until you can figure out 1/8th mile. Also check pinion angle.
Thanks for your suggestions and tips. The low trap speed i think is contributed by the low tire pressure, elevation, and possibly tuning.

I’ll use your chalk recommendation for tire movement. That’s awesome you use your truck 95% on the street! As do I. I love driving these trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I ran 20 psi in my MTs .. you’re not supposed to do a huge burn out Just watch them till you see a little smoke come off them .. need some weight transfer to make it hook
Noted! Thanks leach. Gonna be running 18-20PSI from now on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Open tailgate to move weight a bit rearward. Air up those radials. They do not like to be run low. Learn to roll into the pedal to keep traction if your timing curve is too aggressive for the prep.

Weight reduction and placement will yield better results. But there is no reason you can't run better as it sits.


Jim
Thanks Jim. Next time I plan on removing the tailgate better and factory soft tonneau cover. Also running with 18s and it seems like Eric Korn will be tuning my truck so that’s a plus!
 

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Former Rowing Team.
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Datalog your runs. Send them to your tuner. Once he can confirm your truck is running as it should, then it's all about dialing it in. I have been told (from some well respected members) many times my truck was slow for it's mods yet the logs showed it was perfectly fine.(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
UPDATE ⚡
I have been super busy! I have been talking to uncle Frank a lot and he’s given me a good recipe to get my truck to 60’ better! I’ll be using his expertise and knowledge to do my best to make my truck hook better and hopefully get that 10 I so badly want!

Eric Korn will be tuning my truck now! I’m very excited about that and I won’t be doing any major changes to my setup right not except for Eric’s tunes and better prep for the track. He sent me a tune last week and I haven’t had a chance to load and get him data logs. Hopefully soon so I can go to the track with his tuning. I need to change sparks plugs as per Eric’s recommendation. Will be running NGK BR7EF’s gapped at .022. I was running NGK TR6’s at .024.

Stay tuned for that 10.XXX slip!
 

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Tipton Co. Garbage Truck
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you got the right guy tuning it now. i was about to ask how an 800hp truck was only running 120 in the 1/4 but with eric tuning it thats irrelevant now. get ready to go fast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
you got the right guy tuning it now. i was about to ask how an 800hp truck was only running 120 in the 1/4 but with eric tuning it thats irrelevant now. get ready to go fast.
Yes sir gonna load up the tune today. It was also a combination of wrong tire pressure, weight, and other factors. I know it’s going to be fast note with Eric tuning it!!
 
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