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local painter
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Discussion Starter #42
What holds the pulley in the slot in place? Just a friction hold by tightening a bolt? Got any pics of the back side?
I was curious about this also. I don鈥檛 have any other pics. I can try and find out.
 

Wile E. Coyote, Super Genius!
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On the MP, it is like a bolt-on pulley boss. Fits the slot tightly from side-to-side, and is not totally round where it fits in the slot. Oval shaped, so there are flat spots on the sides where they fit in the slot. And big thick washer and nut on the back to retain it.
 

Slevin
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It's a great looking piece but the price is too much for me, especially since I don't have a need for it with my current pulley combo that I know of.
 

Worlds Fastest Street HD Truck
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That's one badazz piece! Makes me want to build a 2v again LOL. Maybe on the next project truck.

I don't mind the tool path on the bracket piece, but the pullies I'm not digging it. I prefer the CNC lathed look on other aftermarket pullies, vs. the stationary part/machined out look of these ones. Also not crazy how they look curved like OEM vs. more of a hard edge like aftermarket pullies. But this bridge with BPS pullies = yesssss!

As far as the comment about not wanting to go any higher on the bridge pulley, sure on an eaton where it's already pretty low, but look at a KB that sits pretty high up there, plus add in a midplate spacer, the added height on this will be a nice benefit for belt wrap.
 

regular joe
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Over a stock bridge, there is benefit.
And how much money do a lot of us spend on "looking cool"
9 times out of 10, replacing something stock is going to be better. Is this $1300 better? Doubtful.

Its like saying an $1100 cog setup is 'worth it.

I guess it just boils down to what someone wants to waste money on. $1300 buys a lot of 8 balls. 馃槀馃槀馃お
 

Whipple Powered!
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Seems like a waste given the MP is under 300. Also good luck with the raw aluminum pulleys. I went through this over 10yrs ago. The belt starts wearing them and also turns the belt silver. They need to be hardcoat anodized. Same reason the old school billetflow color pulleys wore color off.


542762
 

Wile E. Coyote, Super Genius!
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All of my aluminum pulleys are hard anodized. The lower cog was improperly anodized when purchased from Mportetr in 2011. But I got wind of it pretty quickly and had them properly hard anodized. Haven't had a problem with it since. I replaced the upper pulley with a steel pulley from the Motoblue cog system. The black anodizing wore off in the belts track, but otherwise, no problems. My idlers are anodized in the belts path.
 

10 second street truck
2001 Ford Lightning
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Seems like a waste given the MP is under 300. Also good luck with the raw aluminum pulleys. I went through this over 10yrs ago. The belt starts wearing them and also turns the belt silver. They need to be hardcoat anodized. Same reason the old school billetflow color pulleys wore color off.


View attachment 542762
A) can you buy the mp anymore?
B) the mp tensioner at the top is on the wrong side
C) it's a lot prettier
 

Wile E. Coyote, Super Genius!
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It's funny. The old add-on idler relocator, like the one that comes with the RPM Outlet Motoblue cogs, was always on the driver's side. MP said they made theirs with the idler on the passenger side, and that is the correct location. So, which is right?
 

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It's funny. The old add-on idler relocator, like the one that comes with the RPM Outlet Motoblue cogs, was always on the driver's side. MP said they made theirs with the idler on the passenger side, and that is the correct location. So, which is right?
I remember reading that about the mp bracket also. Which side is the "right" side and why? Or does it even matter? I dont know why it wld matter. This is a nice part but as has been said it is kinda high imho. I know tooling and machining time costs, as i am a machinist. But i dont see how it wld be much better than a bolt on bracket like others already offer for like a 1/5 of the cost. Those others are on the "correct" side like this piece, and they also have a fixed location that wont slip or cld work there way loose in a slot. Idk. Just my .02
 
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10 second street truck
2001 Ford Lightning
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Looking at your blower from the front of your truck.
The left side is the tight or t1 side.
The right side is the slack or t2 side
Meaning the belt moves clockwise.
A static tensioner should be on the slack side.
 

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Looking at your blower from the front of your truck.
The left side is the tight or t1 side.
The right side is the slack or t2 side
Meaning the belt moves clockwise.
A static tensioner should be on the slack side.
Where did you get this knowledge? I wld like to read more on it. So if this is the case in point, then what was said about the MP bridge being the correct side was false.
Also as stated, yes it makes me happy to see new products for our older platform trucks, and this is a nice piece. The price still seems pretty steep and im not big on the tooling marks, but thats just me.
Also as mentioned the outside of those pullies do need hard anodize for longetivity.
 

10 second street truck
2001 Ford Lightning
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Where did you get this knowledge? I wld like to read more on it. So if this is the case in point, then what was said about the MP bridge being the correct side was false.
Also as stated, yes it makes me happy to see new products for our older platform trucks, and this is a nice piece. The price still seems pretty steep and im not big on the tooling marks, but thats just me.
Also as mentioned the outside of those pullies do need hard anodize for longetivity.
It's basic physics

Google belt tension. There's a ton of reading material regarding tension types, belt types, calculating necessary tension and how to much wrap is counter productive.
 

10 second street truck
2001 Ford Lightning
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Actually I have that backwards
The blower is the driven pulley. The crank is the drive pulley
So the driver's side(right) is the tight side. The passenger is the slack side.

Mp is correct. Jc and metco are wrong.
 

Wile E. Coyote, Super Genius!
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It's always nice when someone admits they had it wrong. It wasn't you that was wrong though. As stated, JC and Metco had it wrong.
 
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10 second street truck
2001 Ford Lightning
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It's always nice when someone admits they had it wrong. It wasn't you that was wrong though. As stated, JC and Metco had it wrong.
Well I backed them up, then I drew it on paper and realized it was wrong.
 

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Nice piece... I'd personally spend the 950 or soon to be 1300 on something else.. can buy a lot of little parts for that price tag.


Guys were talking about batteries... I stay with the motomaster battery. Put it on a trickle charger in the winter. Only replaced 1 in 11 years.

Glad JC is still trying to come up with new parts for our platform even though this one isn't for me.
 

10 second street truck
2001 Ford Lightning
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Nice piece... I'd personally spend the 950 or soon to be 1300 on something else.. can buy a lot of little parts for that price tag.


Guys were talking about batteries... I stay with the motomaster battery. Put it on a trickle charger in the winter. Only replaced 1 in 11 years.

Glad JC is still trying to come up with new parts for our platform even though this one isn't for me.
For some of us though, there isn't much left to buy. Lol
 
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