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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I picked up this POSI ported eaton and the silencer holes have been filled. However, looks like part of the JB weld has broke off. Should I remove all the JB weld on all silencer holes and run them open? Or add more JB weld over existing flaked area?
Thanks for the help,
jon

Obviously, one on the left, lower portion.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What are your thoughts for removal?
Um...just chisel and pry them out, if possible. I haven't worked with JB weld before, and don't know my options. I figured this would be the best place to ask.
 

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Even Then I Was Old Skool!
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When Brian did my Raceport blower I agreed with him to leave the holes open. I would just get all that crap out of there bc there's no performance gain, it's purely sound. Replacing it is a PITA to do it right, especially getting a good match on the bore radius. The best way would be to use a lathe to make a wood form that fits inside with a thickness of wax paper. Then you'll have to thoroughly clean the outside surface. I'd add some undercuts to help hold the epoxy in place. Very carefully sand the inside to ensure the edges are smooth and won't hit the rotor pack. But honestly... Get rid of it.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When Brian did my Raceport blower I agreed with him to leave the holes open. I would just get all that crap out of there bc there's no performance gain, it's purely sound. Replacing it is a PITA to do it right, especially getting a good match on the bore radius. The best way would be to use a lathe to make a wood form that fits inside with a thickness of wax paper. Then you'll have to thoroughly clean the outside surface. I'd add some undercuts to help hold the epoxy in place. Very carefully sand the inside to ensure the edges are smooth and won't hit the rotor pack. But honestly... Get rid of it.

Mike
Any advice on the best method to remove the jb weld?
 

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playing in the dirt
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Not adding anything to the JB discussion, just curious. Are you sure that's a Posi port? Sure looks like Stiegs jig set to me. Unless Posi was copying, which I thought he claimed he could do it better, so see no reason he would copy. Like I said, just curious.
 

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if you want to hear a the whistle remove that and add the one that looks like plado and all you have to do is mess with it to become active. the mixing liquids sometimes its a bit difficult to mix and get the right balance between the two
 

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Wile E. Coyote, Super Genius!
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Not adding anything to the JB discussion, just curious. Are you sure that's a Posi port? Sure looks like Stiegs jig set to me. Unless Posi was copying, which I thought he claimed he could do it better, so see no reason he would copy. Like I said, just curious.
He bought it from me. It has the word POSI etched in the front lower surface. I bought it from the original owner.
 

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if it's not coming apart and popping out with a screwdriver and mild effort not, I wouldn't even worry about it. Just be careful trying to remove it with the rotors in, if a piece pops out the back, don't spin the rotors. If you are going to remove it all, pull the rotor pack out. Then you can get a hammer and a screwdriver and punch it out, clean the case, re-JBweld, and reassemble.

Personally when I had an eaton I liked the silencer holes filled. It does make a difference in sound, and while it doesn't make a measureable/noticible difference on boost, filling them is theoretically better for performance since those holes are after the compressed air exits the outlet, it's just allowing that boost to sneak back into the rotors as they spin back up around to the top side.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Not adding anything to the JB discussion, just curious. Are you sure that's a Posi port? Sure looks like Stiegs jig set to me. Unless Posi was copying, which I thought he claimed he could do it better, so see no reason he would copy. Like I said, just curious.
It had a Steig stage 4 port, then was sent to Brian for the POSI port. Steig probably filled the silencer holes. Here's a link:
http://www.lightningrodder.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64069
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
if it's not coming apart and popping out with a screwdriver and mild effort not, I wouldn't even worry about it. Just be careful trying to remove it with the rotors in, if a piece pops out the back, don't spin the rotors. If you are going to remove it all, pull the rotor pack out. Then you can get a hammer and a screwdriver and punch it out, clean the case, re-JBweld, and reassemble.

Personally when I had an eaton I liked the silencer holes filled. It does make a difference in sound, and while it doesn't make a measureable/noticible difference on boost, filling them is theoretically better for performance since those holes are after the compressed air exits the outlet, it's just allowing that boost to sneak back into the rotors as they spin back up around to the top side.
If I spin the rotors to where I can get my fingers in there, I can feel the jb weld move when I push on it. The other side is firm and doesn't move at all.
 

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if you can feel it move around I'd pop it out. Don't want to chance it dislodging and getting sent for a trip through the rotors, and between the rotors in the compression area.

Pop the rotors out, go to town with a hammer and mallet to pop it out, retape the holes, re-jb weld, reassemble.
 

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If you want to remove the jb weld. A course cookie wheel will do the job fast. If it's not falling off easily with some pressure I'd leave it alone though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm going to work on it this weekend. I'm debating wether or not to fill the silencer holes or not.
 

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Fyi that's not a steig silencer holes filled job. Seen tons, never looked like that.

Likely it was done at home. Both steig and posi would have ground on the case to make it clean and ruff for the jb weld to stick to
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Would it be bad to have one side filled and the other side open?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Took the sc apart tonight and removed the loose jb weld on the one side. Didn't take much to knock it out with a screw driver and mallet. Should I go ahead and remove the other side just incase?




Also, what type of fluid is this in the snout? Synthetic I assume.
 

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I'd remove it. Otherwise, risk of it coming loose at some point IMO.
 

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Even Then I Was Old Skool!
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Yup. Failure to bond properly on one side _probably_ means the other side will shake loose sooner rather than later. Remove all of it and sleep comfortably at night LOL. You could leave it clean or very carefully do both sides over. But seeing what happened here would give me pause about risking it happening again, maybe causing real damage.

If you like a noisy blower, sell it and get a MP. Nothing quite approaches the fun of daily driving with a howling cat under the hood, one that screams "OOOOWWWWW" with every minute tickle of the throttle.��

Mike
 
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