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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay here is what I have tought of so far and I will get wil Rob and Chris on the other items.

I will have Two different sections here.

Section One will be the Fastest Times with mods

Section Two will be Dyno numbers with mods

I need everyone to send me the information so that I can get this up and running. Either post here or e-mail me and I will update the list.

To verify times, I will require one of the following two criteria to have a legit time or Dyno.

Either a scan or pic of the time slip or a second verification (I am doing this because alot of people do not have access to a scanner or digi camera.) (This will also bring more people on line with us since the other person MUST BE a member of this board in good standing) :D (This is not hard)

The dyno number will be the same rules as the time rules.

Okay what I will need if you can not email them to me or post them here, I want the following.

Reaction time (doing this so that people can see the reaction of other people and get an idea as to how they are driving)
60' (This goes unstated)
330'
1/8
MPH @ 1/8
1000
1/4
Final MPH

I will also be keeping a record for the 1/8 mile guys. I know there is only one 1/4 track close to me but there are 5 1/8 mile tracks close. So guess which ones I go to.

Dyno numbers go unstated, but I will need a list of the mods that you had/have on your truck at the time of the pull.

Any questions ask. I think I covered just about everything but I might have forgotten something. (more than likely) :D
 

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THANK YOU BRENT FOR TAKING ON THIS TASK
I REALLY APPRECIATE IT, AND I KNOW EVERYONE ELSE WILL TOO

OK, I'll go first WOO HOO

My Best ET 11.816 @ 113.98

60'--------------1.681
330'-------------4.841
1/8--------------7.520
MPH @ 1/8-----91.56
1000------------9.843
1/4-------------11.816
Final MPH------113.98

Slip



Video of the Run WITH WITNESSES, HERE hehehehe..........


----------------------

Now the Dyno





(and I have witnesses here too got dam it, hehehehehe)

Are we going to use the Std Abbreviations while listing Mods Brent ?


Rob_02Lightning---------- 1.681, 11.816 @ 113.98 (02 Black)
C F L4 U2 T D K O R Q N75


This is the Standard


C=Chip
F=Filter
L**=Lower Pulley (**=Lb's)
U**=Upper Pulley (**=Lb's)
T=Throttle Body
W=Water Pump/Electric Fan
P=Power Cooler
D=Drag Tire
S=Suspension
E=Muffler/Catback Exhaust
A=Headers
M=MAF
K=Shift Kit
V=Conveter
G=Gears
I=Upper Intake Work
H=Heads/Cams Work
B=Bottom End Work
O=Race Fuel
R=Weight Reduction
J=Microtuner/Predator/Reflash
Q=Ported Eaton (any version)
X = Transmisson ( I.e. Monster Box, Level 10. etc)
N**=Nitrous Oxide (**=Jet Size in HP)
Z=Aftermarket Supercharger

For the Record I have
Filter, JLP Cool Air Induction
Chip, JLP Multi Program Diablo Delta Chip
Pulley, 2lb Upper
Pulley, 4lb Lower
Ported Eaton, WASP Port
Throttle Body, Accu Fab
Multi Spark Ignition, (Plasma Booster),
n20, Race Tested i150 Nitrous Kit
FTVB
2" Shackles
58" Rancho Bars
16" 28x10 Hoosier C07 Slicks


Brent, some people can be real selfish (LIKE ME) and take up A LOT of space, BUT WE'RE GOING TO NEED IT
FOR THIS ONE.SO, why not let this post be our POST OF POST, a Place anyone can come
ANYTIME to see ALL THE MEMBERS Lightning's/HD's, a list of their Mods, their ET's and Dyno #'s.
Then everyone can come back and update it as needed, and drop you an email
OR SOMETHING

Then AS YOU SAY, you can make the list up when you get a chance, and make yourself a special place to post the Final List
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Rob i will let this slid but you need to get another time slip from this millenium :smt044
 

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THE WEEKEND AFTER NEXT
BEST ET, OR THE L COMES HOME IN A BOX.............. :D

I have some 12.0 slips's from this year, BUT IT'S 11's THAT I'M AFTER
 

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dyno numbers are 404hp and 506 tq. This is a 4lb, predator, and cold air. if you need me to send you dyno sheets, let me know
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Dyno numbers are not required to be verified but remember that if you lie about that then you are hurting your fellow L owners.
 

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Rob,
This was what I posted at the HALO site. I'll scan in th e sheet later. Hope this is what you wanted. Still working on the i150 installation.

From the Houston Area Lightning Owners site:

At the suggestion of our Technical consultant, Big Bob, we made some changes to the exhaust system (can’t discuss this at this time) and added a PRO-M 92 MAF and went back to the dyno yesterday. Got to HPE waited about 30 min while Ken made his first pull then made our pull. Andre installed a completely new program he had worked up for the new MAF that combined some of the information we had acquired from previous dyno pulls with the 90 MAF. The results were enough to make everyone around grin from ear to ear. The truck made 457 RWHP and 525 RWTQ on the street program with only 13# boost and an A/F of 12.1 – 12.8. Keep in mind that this is the Mustang dyno and we have already established on Bob’s truck that the Mustang dyno shows 13% less than the Dynojet in the same facility, This translates to 516 RWHP and 593 RWTQ on pump gas. We are oh so close to our goal of 530 to 550 RWHP and I believe we will have no trouble getting there with a little more boost and time on the dyno. Again, thanks goes out to Andre for the hours he has spent trying to figure out a tune for this odd combination of parts and Bob for answering my never ending questions.

c,f,l,t,w,e,a,m,k,i,h,b,z
 

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Rob_02Lightning said:
THE WEEKEND AFTER NEXT
BEST ET, OR THE L COMES HOME IN A BOX.............. :D

I have some 12.0 slips's from this year, BUT IT'S 11's THAT I'M AFTER
Hope it's not the box. :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Pitch Black this is going to take me w little bit to decode so it might be a couple of mins before it is up on the sheet.
 

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R/T .123
1.483 60ft
1/8th mile [email protected] 101.17MPH
1/4 mile [email protected]


mods are as follows;

F=Filter
L**=Lower Pulley (8Lb's)
U**=Upper Pulley (2.7) Total Boost= 18max
T=Throttle Body
W=Water Pump/Electric Fan
D=Drag Tire
S=Suspension Rear QA1's only
E=Muffler/Catback Exhaust
A=Headers
K=Shift Kit
V=Converter
I=Upper Intake Work (stock extrude honed upper)
H=Heads/Cams Work
B=Bottom End Work
O=Race Fuel
R=Weight Reduction
J=Microtuner/SCT reflash tuned by [email protected]
Z=Aftermarket Supercharger


Respecfully submitted Dec 25th, 2004.

Thanks.

[email protected]
 

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Welcome to our Home JJ [smilie=wavey.gif]

and CONGRATS again on those AWESOME #'s
WOO HOO

By tonight our Video and Sound File Section will be BACK on line BIGGER and BADDER than before. Feel free to upload a run or 2

HAPPY HOLIDAYS AND WELCOME [smilie=wavey.gif]
 

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Thanks Rob. It was a great way to end the season, thats for sure.

To have your last run of the year be your best is something I couldnt have ever thought would happen, but I'm glad it did.

I wanted to let you know that once I hit 10.30's on all boost, I'm gonna need to talk to your buds at Racetested. ;)

Thanks again.

[email protected]
 

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C=Chip
F=Filter
L**=Lower Pulley (**=Lb's)
U**=Upper Pulley (**=Lb's)
T=Throttle Body
W=Water Pump/Electric Fan
D=Drag Tire
S=Suspension
E=Muffler/Catback Exhaust
A=Headers
M=MAF
K=Shift Kit
V=Conveter
B=Bottom End Work
O=Race Fuel
X = Transmisson / Monster Box
Z=Aftermarket Supercharger
 

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paranoid
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i am new and i have looked at all your time slips. i just got my lightning. and have done some werk to it . i have a magnaflow exhaust, cold air intake, jlp 2# upper blower pulley (2.8). i was wondering what should i do next. i have seen alot of people with the boost bypass. what is this?

thanks for your help
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
lightningkid said:
i am new and i have looked at all your time slips. i just got my lightning. and have done some werk to it . i have a magnaflow exhaust, cold air intake, jlp 2# upper blower pulley  (2.8). i was wondering what should i do next. i have seen alot of people with the boost bypass. what is this?

thanks for your help
Okay to answer your question on the Boost-By-Pass mod here you go.

The Lightning motor has a valve on the near the back of the blower on the
drivers side that relieves or bypasses air past the blower. This valve
serves two purposes on the Lightning motor. During high vacuum situations
(when you are not requiring high power), air leaks around the blower to
avoid ware on the blower drive and heat. Once the motor gets to 0 vacuum on
it's way to boost, the valve is designed to close and allow the motor to
build boost. The other function that this valve is designed to do is protect
the motor from over-boost when the motor hits the rev limiter. The problem
is that when this boost bypass is energized, it remains in that position for
quite some period of time. This only seems to happen when doing tire warming
at the track and the first time you find out that the bypass is in 0 boost
mode is about 30 ft from the start line on your way to a 17sec @ 78 MPH
pass. This mod is the 10 min and $3 solution to this problem. Note: I have
heard that the boost bypass my come in with an over-heat situation and may
also come in with the torque reduction if still active in your chip.

The link to how to do this mod is here.
http://www.svtlightnings.com/svt/how-to/boostbypass/boost_bypass_mod.htm

As far as what you should do next this is a tricky question.

You already have the basics done. Cold Air Intake also called CAI, Exhaust, and a pulley.

Okay I have a couple of questions for you.

Is you exhaust a cat back meaning is it everything from the cats out? Stock cats still on the truck. You will know this because there are four stock cats on our L's.

What kind of a tune are you running? I would assume that since you are running a JL upper then you are running one of his chips. Am I correct?

I would go with either a 4 or a 6 lb lower pulley, if you are going to keep it on the street and drive it alot then I would go with a 4 lb lower.

After that I would go with a Ported Plenum or a C&L plenum.

After that I would go with a ported blower or an Apten, Kenne Bell or Whipple. A Ported is not to expensive and you will get a little more boost out of it without spending an arm and a leg. LFP can do it for around 350 I think.

After that I would strat looking at a tranny, you will need it because the stocker has a weak link in the 1st and second gear syncros.

While you have tranny out I would put in a Stall most people tha tI know go with an Art Carr 2800 / 3000 stall. Still streetable and good at the track also.

Then you will need traction bars. Again LFP makes a really good set.

After you get tired of this setup then go and play with the big boys and get a complete built motor. (This is a long way down the road)

Again these are just my suggestions and I have been down the road of a budget racer for a long time and as you progress you will find things that will work better for you and others that won't.

Brent
 

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paranoid
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i appreciate everything, i have the stock cats on the truck with just a 2in and 2 out muffler. (on a budget). i am not running a tune (chip). i just have the k&n gen 2 fipk kit with what is cold the thunder pipe but it comes with the k&n kit. the blower pulley i was told would not make that much difference. so i did not get a chip or programmer. but now i am looking at the predator with a jlp custom tune. since you can change the pulley settings with out having to get it reburned. the tires i run are nitto 555. i drive the truck everyday. it is a 2002 and has 50k on it i got it when i was 19 years old and now i am 21 and started to make a little more play money. thanks for all the insite.
 
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