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I feel this is the Best Nitrous System in the World, "The Race Tested Wizard of Nos i150 Kit.
I also have their Digital Nitrous Control (The Mini Max), and their TP-1, (TPS activated trigger switch). Their web site is HERE

This System is "A PULSATING SOLENOID SYSTEM", (LIFETIME Warranty Solenoids).
Add a Digital Control, and you got one hell of a "dialed in" Nitrous Experience, WOO HOO........

Ok here's what we got to install:
(1) i150 Kit

(1) Minimax Digital Nitrous Control

(I should note this is the Basic (BUT POWERFUL) Nitrous Controller, it's big brother "The Maximiser" is even more adjustable

(1) Fuel Solenoid

(1) Nitrous Solenoid

(1) TP-1 TPS Arming Switch

There isn't really any WRONG ORDER to install this in. Basically you have to Mount everything, Hook Up everything,
and Wire everything. Of course Nozzle placement will be directly related to the other mounting locations, so we'll start there
(Their Nozzle is also a Special Design "Crossfire Injector")

Decide where your Nozzle is going to go
I decided on here

This spot works out very well due to the turn in our Upper

2 Minutes later it was Drilled, Tapped, and Installed (10mm Tap)

Plenty of room

OF LINE POSSIBLE. Thats a main advantage when using these Hi Pressure Nylon Lines, you CUT TO FIT, and stay as short
as possible, (but in compromise with also finding a cool area for the Solenoids)

I found, molested, altered, and painted this Bracket for the task,
it was actually an old B+M Rachet Shifter Bracket I had laying around.

Then I mounted the Solenoids (sorry old Camera, at night)
I removed the Factory "Wire Harness Cover" and Bolted the Bracket tightly to it using Bolts, Lock Washers, and Nuts

Ok the System is starting to come together
Since I took out the Zex kit for this install, I already had an an4 x male adt in my Fuel Rail

Of course Race Tested provides the Adt to hook up the Hi Pressure Nylon Line

Here the Fuel Line is hooked up and wrapped in Black Wire Loom.
(can’t even see it, can you)

Ok we got incoming fuel now,
Here you see how I routed the Line leaving the engine compartment
via the Drivers Side Wheel Well,
and along the Chassis.

Of course I used Wire Loom and Tie's along the way

Here you see the line entering the Rear Drivers Side Wheel Well

(I did this for a good reason, you'll see coming up)

Here you see the line inside the bed area

Here's the reason why, I wanted a way to have FULL 4ft x 8ft Access of the Bed. So what I did was used Liquid Steel
and attached (4) 1/4" female insert into the floor. (I even put them at an angle so the floor is flat with NOTHING sticking up.
Here you see the Mat cut for them, nitice the N20 Line and Heater Wires get tucked in BEHIND the Wheel Well, TOTALLY PROTECTED

Here are the World Famous GATOR BRACKETS. Made by my Pal and Buddy

His Bracket's with the Bottle Brackets attached to them

Here's the Final Look, fully hooked up

(as you can see, what this now allows, is for me to simply remove (4) Bolts holding Gators Bracket, and then I can lift the setup out as 1 piece,
The Bottle, Bracket's, and Heater (still attached to the Gator Brackets)
MUCH EASIER THIS WAY, and it takes seconds to gain full use of the Bed)

Ok Done there, I'll show the Minmax Digital Nitrous Control now.
It comes with its own little one hole mounting
Bracket, and it fits and works PERFECT right here. (no adding to the wires, (or cutting for that matter)

(and no it is NO WHERE near being in the way)

As you can see here

(the perfect spot to see what’s going on, and make any last minute adjustments)

Ok the system is REALLY coming together now,
Time to decide where to Mount the Arming and Heater Switches
(I choose here, because once again,
it's easy to get to, and can be shut off instantly in the event of (well you know, hehehehe)

Now we're really cooking
OK we Got incoming Fuel, Incoming Nitrous,  The Nozzle is installed, the Control is installed, the TP-1 simply Sticks to the Fire Wall with the included double sided tape, so all that’s left is to hook up the incoming Fuel and Nitrous to the Solenoids, out going lines to the Nozzle, and wire it all up.

Here you see both the Incoming and Out going Lines are now hooked up

A little wiring to do (DIRECTIONS WERE AWESOME, no prob's at all)

That’s it, the System is now COMPLETE, WOO HOO

A couple of little side notes
The Signal you need to pick up from our TPS, is the Middle Wire
The plug has 3 wires one on top of the other
you want #2, (middle wire)

Here you see I'm hooked into it

I find this ground always usefull

This is the perfect place to bring wires through to the Cab
I have many more going through there now (the minimax wires)
and of course it later got covered with Black Wire Loom

This is Fused "Keyed Power",
Perfect for the Arming Switch

And that concluded this Installation

BE SAFE, Spray away, and HAVE FUN...............

Adjustments are simple with the Minimax
How much INITIAL HP do you want (WHEN FIRST FLOORED)
This is adjustable from 30% - 60% HP (% of your current Jets)

The other Adjustment is WHEN DO YOU WANT IT TO GO TO 100% HP
Thats adjustable from 2.0 Seconds, right through 9.9 seconds
(this is where the Pulsing Solenoids come in)

It's big Brother the Maximiser can do A LOT more like drop back to a % of HP at the end of the run, (I will prob upgrade to that eventually)

Filter Chip N pulley, T/B, MSD
No Exhaust Mods
No Suspension Mods
No Cooling Mods, Fans, Pump, heat exchangers, IC Fan Switch, etc.
No Tranny work (just a FTVB)

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