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Discussion Starter #1
Figured I would start a new thread since this is no longer about quick detailer. Sorry for the length, clay bar, iron x and finishing up with wax applied by hand is as far as I have ever gone.

I have purchased what I believe is everything I need to do a novice paint correction:

pc7424xp
meguiars 5" back plate DBP5
meguiars 5" cutting pad DFC5
meguiars 5" polishing pad DFP5
meguiars 5" finish pad DFF5
33.8oz concentrated carpro immolube for clay bar/quick detailer
ultra fine clay bar
iron x
spray bottle to mix immolube in and apply
distilled water to mix immolube with
meguiars ultimate compound
meguiars ultimate polish
obsssd paint seal
(3) chemical guys el gordo 16x16 mf towels
(3) chemical guys workhorse 16x16 mf towels
(3) of these https://www.carpro-us.com/microfiber-towels/carpro-shop-towel-24-x-16/
and of course I purchased a new roll of paint masking tape

Anything else I am missing? I would like to attempt a paint correction this week. Someone please correct me(especially Merlin or anyone else that is really into vehicle detailing) if I am wrong in any of this.

The truck hasn't had wax applied in 3 years or more. Do I still need to wash with dawn dish soap or can I just use my normal car soap?(chemical guys Mr. Pink)

Do I work in this order?
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step 1) wash truck w/2 bucket method (dawn dish soap/mr pink,do i need to dry it?)
step 2) spray truck down with iron x to loosen up iron contaminants, let soak
step 3) rinse off the paint thoroughly, making sure to remove all iron x
step 4) clay bar the paint with clay and immolube (do i have to rinse after this or dry the paint?)
step 5) mask off all plastic and rubber trim
step 6)with the pc7424xp,use meguiars ultimate compound and DFC5 cutting pad to remove swirls and scratches.
step 7) use the DFP5 polishing pad with meguiars ultimate polish
step 8 ) use the DFF5 finishing pad with obssssd paint seal
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****Do I use the immolube and a mf towel to remove every compound after I am done?**** This will be done outside under a carport on a light windy day,7mph or less. Knowing cleanliness is a key factor, do I spray each panel down with quick detailer prior to any paint correction/polishing or is that being too anal?

Do I have to buff off the sealant with a mf towel like wax or is sealant different? When do I know the ultimate compound and ultimate polish is done?(i believe this is called flashing?) Do I have to prime the pads and if so,how do I do this? How much compound/polish/sealant do I use on the pad?

Anything else that I haven't asked/covered? Immolube gets diluted 20% immolube / 80% distilled water if I am reading the ratio's correctly?https://www.carpro-us.com/deep-cleanse/carpro-immolube-1-liter-34oz/

How do you guys buff/polish areas that are tight like where the fog lights are? Do you polish over the handles or do you avoid them? Would removing the bed caps make life easier?

Thanks everyone, sorry for the long thread and tons of questions. But this can get expensive quickly.
 

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local painter
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Figured I would start a new thread since this is no longer about quick detailer. Sorry for the length, clay bar, iron x and finishing up with wax applied by hand is as far as I have ever gone.

I have purchased what I believe is everything I need to do a novice paint correction:

pc7424xp
meguiars 5" back plate DBP5
meguiars 5" cutting pad DFC5
meguiars 5" polishing pad DFP5
meguiars 5" finish pad DFF5
33.8oz concentrated carpro immolube for clay bar/quick detailer
ultra fine clay bar
iron x
spray bottle to mix immolube in and apply
distilled water to mix immolube with
meguiars ultimate compound
meguiars ultimate polish
obsssd paint seal
(3) chemical guys el gordo 16x16 mf towels
(3) chemical guys workhorse 16x16 mf towels
(3) of these https://www.carpro-us.com/microfiber-towels/carpro-shop-towel-24-x-16/
and of course I purchased a new roll of paint masking tape

Anything else I am missing? Carpro Eraser


I would like to attempt a paint correction this week. Someone please correct me(especially Merlin or anyone else that is really into vehicle detailing) if I am wrong in any of this.

The truck hasn't had wax applied in 3 years or more. Do I still need to wash with dawn dish soap or can I just use my normal car soap?(chemical guys Mr. Pink)

Do I work in this order?
---------------------------------------------------------------------
step 1) wash truck w/2 bucket method (dawn dish soap/mr pink,do i need to dry it?)
Yes wash 1st. I don’t think the kind of soap is super important since your about to polish.

step 2) spray truck down with iron x to loosen up iron contaminants, let soak
step 3) rinse off the paint thoroughly, making sure to remove all iron x

I’m not familiar with the ironX but hopefully merlin will elaborate on this step.

step 4) clay bar the paint with clay and immolube (do i have to rinse after this or dry the paint?)

I spray and wipe clean with Eraser and clean MF towell.

step 5) mask off all plastic and rubber trim.

Yes or remove if you can do so without damaging the parts.


step 6)with the pc7424xp,use meguiars ultimate compound and DFC5 cutting pad to remove swirls and scratches.

Correct, unless you choose to sand the surface with 3000grit 1st. Some prefer to sand the heavy scratches out prior to the cutting compound.


step 7) use the DFP5 polishing pad with meguiars ultimate polish
correct.

step 8 ) use the DFF5 finishing pad with obssssd paint seal

I’m interested in this step also hopefully merlin will elaborate on this step. I’ve been using a 3rd step polish like rupes Diamond at this point.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
****Do I use the immolube and a mf towel to remove every compound after I am done?

This will be done outside under a carport on a light windy day,7mph or less. Knowing cleanliness is a key factor, do I spray each panel down with quick detailer prior to any paint correction/polishing or is that being too anal?

I use carpro Eraser and a different towell between each step.


Do I have to buff off the sealant with a mf towel like wax or is sealant different? When do I know the ultimate compound and ultimate polish is done?(i believe this is called flashing?) Do I have to prime the pads and if so,how do I do this? How much compound/polish/sealant do I use on the pad?

On the foam pads you can tell there primed by looking at the side of the pad. It will show a wet line that should not exceed 1/4”. You don’t want too much compound in The pads.


Anything else that I haven't asked/covered? Immolube gets diluted 20% immolube / 80% distilled water if I am reading the ratio's correctly?https://www.carpro-us.com/deep-cleanse/carpro-immolube-1-liter-34oz/

Immolube is for clay baring. I use Eraser for cleaning the panel between steps.


How do you guys buff/polish areas that are tight like where the fog lights are? Do you polish over the handles or do you avoid them? Would removing the bed caps make life easier?

I use a Rupes Ibrid nano polisher to get into tight areas. It has a 1” and 2” pad attachment.

Thanks everyone, sorry for the long thread and tons of questions. But this can get expensive quickly.
I answered some of the above questions inside the quote. Hopefully merlin will add to or take away from these answers I provided.
 

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Worlds Shiniest HD F-150!
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Rather than lengthy text here are some vids.

Here is a Prep-Wash vid that's pretty good.
Remember not everything is everything...
Peddlers are peddling their products...

Ok, here are a couple of vids with LOTS of information.
Yes, it will take time to watch all the vids. Do this first!





Here is another link with good beginner/advanced information..

https://www.ammonyc.com/beginner/
 

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Worlds Shiniest HD F-150!
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1) You are stripping and following up with Decon and polishing.
Do not use car soap with a built in "wax" protectant.

2) Use a soft foam wax applicator to lightly rub IronX into the paint after spraying
Only do this is the shade with lots of ventilation. Do not let IronX dry on the paint!

3) rinse off the paint thoroughly, making sure to remove all iron x
True

4) Immolube has lots of lubricity. Washing again does not hurt and removes residue.
Be sure and dilute Immolube according to the directions on the bottle. It is concentrated!



Now it is washed, decontaminated and washed again...Dry the vehicle and...

--> INSPECT THE PAINT !!! <--

Look for areas that have imperfections. Swirls marks, holograms, fine scratches etc.
Not every vehicle needs a 10 pound hammer to put in a thumbtack. Look first!

5) mask off all plastic and rubber trim.
true

6) Wet sanding is for the experienced. Do not go down that road at this time.
You are a beginner at learning how to use a detailing machine.

7) use the DFP5 polishing pad with meguiars ultimate polish
correct.

8) I personally would apply Obssssd paint seal by hand with a soft wax applicator
____________

In short

If you are not pulling the wheels wash them first with a seperate bucket
Then wash from the roof down. Sometimes I'll do the lower section first.

"Use the least aggressive method first."

Decontamination:
You don't always need to clay. Claying creates micro-marring.
After your paint is "clean" feel the paint with your hand in a Baggie.
Does it feel like gritty sandpaper? If so, it needs chemical and/or mechanical decon.

Compound:
You don't always need to compound. Do you have swirl marks and fine scratches?
If so, then Megs UC only doing a 24"x24" sections at a time and checking results.
Be sure and clean you foam pad after each 2'x2' section to remove residue. Work clean!

Polish:
The polishing step is done to create clarity and gloss. It is usually done after compounding.

Arm speed - Motion of moving the machine across the paint 1" per second.
Machine speed - The Megs BP white line needs to slowly spin. If it's not spinning it's not working.
Downward pressure - I like approx. 10 lbs of down pressure with my cupped hand on the cover.

Section Pass Pattern w/50% overlap


Dual Action (DA) Rotate and Oscillate pattern


Megs UC and UP are consumer products based on M105 and M205 technology.
They are a lot more user friendly than most commercial products
These are two good products that I would suggest to a newbie to learn machine polishing.
Use a good mf towel between 3-4 sections passes to remove polish and check your results.

Remember - Work clean and do not cross contaminate products.

Do not expect concours level results. You are just starting to learn.
Do not expect to be done polishing in 1-2 hours. I takes time.



It is a learned craft with lots of Machines, Pads, Compounds & Polishes.


Welcome to my deep, dark rabbit hole!
 

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My approach is very similar to what you have outlined (courtesy of Merlin's guidance), but I used a Nanoskin pad instead of an actual clay bar (same principle) and used CarPro Eraser between Polish and LSP stage.
 

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My approach is very similar to what you have outlined (courtesy of Merlin's guidance), but I used a Nanoskin pad instead of an actual clay bar (same principle) and used CarPro Eraser between Polish and LSP stage.
Same here. I like the nano skin 6” pads. And lovin the eraser. Smells like fruity pebbles cereal. Bet it don’t taste like it tho..
I’m guessing with the actual clay bar we’re supposed to use the immolube..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Merlin (or anyone), I purchased these foam applicators. Will they work for applying the obssssd sealant? https://www.carpro-us.com/brushes-applicators-tools/foam-applicator-6-pack/ If not,what do you recommend from car-pro? Do you apply the sealant in straight lines or do you rub it onto the paint in a circular motion?

Also I noticed that the guy in one of the videos says he uses isopropyl alcohol mix for cleaning the paint surface,then in another video he said it can dry out the paint/clear coat. Is this true? If so; is the carpro eraser easier on the paint and clear coat? Is the carpro eraser concentrated?(I didn't see anywhere saying it is)

In one of the videos the older guy(not the ammo guy) said he mists water on the surface to make the product last longer,is this recommended?

Also you mentioned cleaning the pads earlier, and in one video it showed the guy cleaning a microfiber pad with compressed air. Can I do this with the meguiar pads even though they are foam? How often should I do this? Once per panel? My air compressor does not have a water/oil trap, is this fine?
 

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Merlin (or anyone), I purchased these foam applicators. Will they work for applying the obssssd sealant? https://www.carpro-us.com/brushes-applicators-tools/foam-applicator-6-pack/ If not,what do you recommend from car-pro? Do you apply the sealant in straight lines or do you rub it onto the paint in a circular motion?

Also I noticed that the guy in one of the videos says he uses isopropyl alcohol mix for cleaning the paint surface,then in another video he said it can dry out the paint/clear coat. Is this true? If so; is the carpro eraser easier on the paint and clear coat? Is the carpro eraser concentrated?(I didn't see anywhere saying it is)

In one of the videos the older guy(not the ammo guy) said he mists water on the surface to make the product last longer,is this recommended?

Also you mentioned cleaning the pads earlier, and in one video it showed the guy cleaning a microfiber pad with compressed air. Can I do this with the meguiar pads even though they are foam? How often should I do this? Once per panel? My air compressor does not have a water/oil trap, is this fine?
1) Those foam applicators work well for applying Obssssd Paint Sealant.
Unlike Mr. Miyagi I use up and down on the sides and front to back on horizontal (Hood, trunk etc.)


2) Eraser is my favorite. It cleans and strips compounds etc. and it smells good too. It is not concentrated.

Really old video

3) Depending on the product but it can sling everywhere! You should not have this issue with Megs UC or UP

4) Cleaning foam pads can be easy with a Polishing Pad Cleaning Brush
"After each section, run this brush across your pad on a low setting to remove polish and paint residue."

...the more you learn the more you continue to learn...I am still learning everyday and with every car.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Bought (2)34oz bottles of eraser,a couple more microfiber towels,and that little brush to clean the pads with.

Do i apply roughly the same amount of obsssd sealant as the guy in the orange vette video(with his zaino)? A small line,spread evenly on the applicator,once per panel.

So I use the cutting pad with the compound, which pad do I use with the polish? I have the polishing pad and the finishing pad. What do I use the other pad for since I am applying the sealant by hand?
 

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Bought (2)34oz bottles of eraser,a couple more microfiber towels,and that little brush to clean the pads with.

Do i apply roughly the same amount of obsssd sealant as the guy in the orange vette video(with his zaino)? A small line,spread evenly on the applicator,once per panel.

So I use the cutting pad with the compound, which pad do I use with the polish? I have the polishing pad and the finishing pad. What do I use the other pad for since I am applying the sealant by hand?
1)
I use Eraser to strip/clean. I use it when compounding/polishing
I polish a section...then use Eraser to clean and check the results.

2)
Each product has the manufacturer's recommendations on the bottle.
I don't remember exactly. RTFM and remember to shake well first.

3)
Compound
DFC5 - Meguiars 5 Inch DA Foam Cutting Disc - Burgundy - Megs Ultimate Compound
The cutting pad is made of a dense but flexible foam capable of removing moderate swirls,
scratches, and oxidation. It should be used with a swirl remover for the best results

Polish
DFP5 - Meguiars 5 Inch DA Foam Polishing Disc - Yellow - Meguiars Ultimate Polish
The polishing pad has a less dense consistency capable of removing light swirls and
oxidation when used with a light swirl remover or fine polish.

Finishing
DFF5 - Meguiars 5 Inch DA Foam Finishing Disc - Black - Wax, Sealant or Fine polish
The finishing foam pad is very soft and has no leveling ability.
Use this pad to apply waxes, sealants, and glazes and produce a high gloss shine

Do you have all your products, pads, polishes etc?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
1)
I use Eraser to strip/clean. I use it when compounding/polishing
I polish a section...then use Eraser to clean and check the results.

2)
Each product has the manufacturer's recommendations on the bottle.
I don't remember exactly. RTFM and remember to shake well first.

3)
Compound
DFC5 - Meguiars 5 Inch DA Foam Cutting Disc - Burgundy - Megs Ultimate Compound
The cutting pad is made of a dense but flexible foam capable of removing moderate swirls,
scratches, and oxidation. It should be used with a swirl remover for the best results

Polish
DFP5 - Meguiars 5 Inch DA Foam Polishing Disc - Yellow - Meguiars Ultimate Polish
The polishing pad has a less dense consistency capable of removing light swirls and
oxidation when used with a light swirl remover or fine polish.

Finishing
DFF5 - Meguiars 5 Inch DA Foam Finishing Disc - Black - Wax, Sealant or Fine polish
The finishing foam pad is very soft and has no leveling ability.
Use this pad to apply waxes, sealants, and glazes and produce a high gloss shine

Do you have all your products, pads, polishes etc?
I have everything in front of me that I listed in the first post. My 2 bottles of carpro eraser and pad cleaning brush wont be here until next Wednesday.(I guess due to the holiday) I will probably pull off the bed cover and try to remove the bed caps over the next 72 hours so I don't have to mask off so much. I would also like to apply a wax/sealant under the bed caps to help with water removal. Water seems to drip forever from underneath the bed cap and I am hoping this will help.

How do I know if I have too much product in the pad or not enough?

I have watched probably 20+ videos, all that you recommended and then some on detailing a vehicles paint. And of course there is some conflicting info from the different techniques that people use. Some say prime the pad with detail spray/water. Others say prime the pad with a lot of product and make sure it covers the pads surface. I know what your results are, and they are awesome.

So far none of the videos have covered it,and maybe I just missed it. What about using the edge of the pad to buff/polish areas? (a/b pillars, tight areas,corners etc) Is this a bad idea for a novice? Whats the best way to tackle these areas? How do I buff non-flat-ish areas like the mirror caps and bed sides?

Anything I should worry about when buffing around the vehicle emblems? Will the pads tear or get chunks ripped out of them if I accidentally hit one? Especially like the lightning logo on the front fenders or the svt badge on the tailgate.
 

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A little more info...


Simple machine use rules:

1) Do a 24"x24" section at a time
Be sure to prime the pad. I rub product into the pad with my fingers.
It is best to have primed product on the entire pad surface.
Only use 3-4 pea sized drop of compound/polish on a primed pad.
Clean you pad after each section (2-4 passes on the 24"x24" section)

2) Slow arm speed
1" per second.

3) Medium machine speed.
High machine speed and going back and forth fast does not work.

4) Downward pressure on the machine head.
This should be approx 10-15 lbs
Too much and the pad won't spin.
Too little pressure and it won't cut/correct.

5) Do not over compound
Removing swirls removes clear coat. CC is precious. Only do what is needed.

6) Do a section and check your work.
After do 2-4 sections passes clean off the compound and check with a light.

6) Clean your pad(s) often.
After doing a section pass clean you pad with a pad cleaning brush.
This means if you are doing a 2'x2' area more than once clean your pad each time.

Short Version:
Polish a section, clean and check your work, repeat if needed.

Don't be afraid of Megs Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish with a PC 7424xp
They are newbie user friendly products. Long work time and easy wipe off.
They are easy to use for a newbie to learn the 4 P's - Paint, product, pads and process.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you guys so far for all the help. As long as weather co-operates,monday is the day to see if I can pull this off.

I have removed the bed rail caps and the tailgate cap(but not the bottom piece).

I have watched all the videos you linked Merlin and then some. Came up with a few more questions.

1) when I go to remove the ultimate compound off the surface(just to check my work prior to polishing),do I use my carpro immolube or do i use my carpro eraser? From what I understand, I use the carpro eraser to remove the polish off the paint prior to applying the obssssd sealant/Lsp.

2) am I suppose to wash these new meguiar pads before use? How do I wash them after use? Is washing necessary as long as I don't cross contaminate and keep them brushed out?

3) A few pieces of info that I read/watched; stated using water or quick detailer to wet the pad prior to compounding, can i use whats left of my meguiars quick detailer or is it best not to cross contaminate this with any of my other products? Can I use my immolube for this also?

4) what do you guys do when you get close to objects/panels like the lower trim on lightnings? or the badges? Do you compound and polish the lower trim or is it not worth it due to height? Mine are far from perfect,no cracks or anything, just a lot of paint chips etc through the years.

5) is it okay to run the machine over masking tape in tight areas or will it pick up something from the tape and cause issues?(adhesive,pieces of tape etc) Areas like the black trim below the tail lights and A pillars.

6) going by what Merlin said about not using soap that protects waxes/sealants, I am going to use dawn dish soap. Do I wash with dawn dish soap like I do with my car specific soap or are there special precautions?Two bucket method of course.

I think where I will have the most difficulty is on the front bumper,because of it being so round and not being able to get into the fog light pockets, and near the lower trim of the truck and badges.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Started early this morning,washed the truck with dawn dish soap and my chemical guys soap 50/50. Then used iron x and rubbed it into the paint,not very many iron deposits on the paint to my surprise. Maybe 15 or so spots on the entire truck. After rinsing it off, I went ahead and clayed the truck since there were a few bug guts and other hard to remove spots. Then washed the truck again with a 50/50 dawn/chemical guys mix. Masked off all trim and rubber only to not go much further. I primed my cutting pad, applied 3-4 pea size dots on the pad. Dabbed it onto the paint in the area I went to work on and nothing...the pad just jiggled on my pc7424xp. Turned amps up to 4.5-5 and it would spin for a few turns,then stop and jiggled. Whats going on here? It would jiggle under its own weight with me not adding any.

What do I do now? the truck is masked off and i rather not have to pull the tape to wash it again tomorrow. Can i just clean the panels with compressed air/car pro eraser and a microfiber towel?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well, here are the results from the past 3 days. A lot of sweat went into this (mid 90s everyday), its not perfect but it will have to do for now. I would like to take a second and give a big shout out thank you to Merlin and to Leeproctor and thanks to everyone else who chimed in with their tips. I will say this,for someones first time and just learning detailing with a 5" pad...a lightning is not a good vehicle to learn on. The bed sides were a pain in the ass especially near the cab.
 

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local painter
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Very impressive:bigtu
Looks like you did a hell of a good job:cheers
 

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Not bad for a "Newbie"!!!

My Shamu is what got me into polishing paint.
When I first got it the hood was loaded with swirls.
I got a PCxp and started learning paint correction.
That was over 10 years ago and I'm still learning...

Not bad!


Welcome to my deep, dark rabbit hole!
Now on to chase that elusive "Wet Look"...

Good Job!!!
 
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