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Go Skers!
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1,061 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I've gotten quite a few questions on ins and outs of the swap, and figured I would try to do this to help as much as I can. This is going to be a little off because I'm showing after the fact of doing the swap.

First off, the #1 asset to complete the swap was Johnny answering all my questions and I'm sure he will continue to do for customers. I'm not going to touch on most of the aspects he includes with midplate install as it is very straightforward.

Here it is in all of its glory.



Something that worried me and a lot of people is the modification of the rain tray. When I was down to the bare turkey pan, I placed a jetski rideplate across it, but a board or anything flat and sturdy would work. I then used the factory lightning bottle jack and pushed up areas while fitting the blower. This took several attempts. The elbow and IAC took the most room.



You can clock the IAC either direction, I chose to face it backwards so the hose wouldn't interfere with the vacuum port on the blower. **Make sure to connect iac harness prior to installing blower or you won't have enough clearance to get it on.**



You also need to extend the TPS wires. You can solder wires or use connectors. A little extra advise for those not used to splicing harnesses, don't cut all the wires in one spot. Alternate the cuts so that when you tape the harness there isn't a giant ball.



The thermostat hose also needs shortened. If it not on all the way makes you nervous, you could probably take some material out, but mine has never leaked this way.



Now you can slide the blower in place and begin to run vacuum lines. My example makes use of a simple catch can.







line from IAC



I used the Roush F150 throttle body spacer(PN#1150-9A589-AA) and Whipple CAI. The factory throttle cables don't need modified. The power steering reservoir needs moved from the factory location. I just mounted it off the throttle bracket and my air box.



Its a pretty simple swap once you dive into it. If there are any other questions, feel free to ask.
 

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Go Skers!
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1,061 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mine was previously tuned with a mp on high boost and it was close for the m122. I actually ran the 11.0 without retuning.

Butt Dyno says I've picked up a lot since tuning for m122 though.
 

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Premium Member
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3,118 Posts
Bump
 

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Go Skers!
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1,061 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have a 10lb lower and id have to check belt, but I have the MP triple idler bridge.
 

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Premium Member
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3,118 Posts
they dont really maybe one tab will mount.
 

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2.9 Whipple E85R A1 Transmission
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12,206 Posts
For the hard coolant lines. How did you bolt them down?
You don't use them, they are the IAT2's worst night mare...Some 5/8 heater hose is a 100x improvement. You can get some 5/8 pex fittings at Home Depot.

IAT2's are your downstream air temperatures... Once they go up, the PCM will pull timing. The faster you can get the temp's out of the Inner cooler the better.
Those hard lines have less then 3/8" inside diameter at the 90* bend.
Post some pictures of your mods...
 

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AntiSocial
21 BMW M550i xDrive, 10 Nissan Murano SL
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936 Posts
This post is old but helped me on my Son project , We are doing the same swap on His 02 Lightning, If some one looing for a recent ported and serviced by Steig... stock Eaton let me know..
I might be. Depends on price, since I’d have to have the mounting holes machined for my 2000.
 
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