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INFO FROM "CHUCK'S LIGHTNING PAGE"

For those that have never seen it, IT'S AMAZING SEE IT HERE

(AND WORTH PUTTING IN YOUR FAVORITE FOLDER)

THANKS CHUCK



The boost actuator is located on the driver's side of the intake close to the firewall. There are (2) 10mm bolts that hold it in place.

One you can see in the pic and the other is on the backside of the actuator closest to the firewall. Pay attention to the slots location

in reference to the bolts so you will know where you started. Loosen bolts and raise the actuator up until you see the LEVER raise up

off of the STOP. Lower it back down until the LEVER just touches the STOP then tighten bolts. Now, this is the way it was explained

to me but I found that set this close the boost gauge would rise to almost "0" while cruising at 80. I went back and readjusted

so I could cruise at 80 with no needle movement unless I barely moved the throttle (and I mean barely). This setting was probably

halfway between the stock setting and the just touching setting. The first thing I noticed was the needle jumped immediately to

10lbs and climbed from there. Stock it jumped to 9.5lbs and climbed. The total boost also increased by a 1/2lb to 1/4lb more.

I also ran a tick quicker with my fastest mph at the track. The temps were warmer and there was less traction (it rained until the track opened).

I think this adjustment is worth a small amount of speed. Besides, it's free.
 

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Premium Member
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1,151 Posts
SOME GOOD INFO LIDTED HERE





INFO FROM "CHUCK'S LIGHTNING PAGE"

For those that have never seen it, IT'S AMAZING SEE IT HERE

(AND WORTH PUTTING IN YOUR FAVORITE FOLDER)

THANKS CHUCK



The boost actuator is located on the driver's side of the intake close to the firewall. There are (2) 10mm bolts that hold it in place.

One you can see in the pic and the other is on the backside of the actuator closest to the firewall. Pay attention to the slots location

in reference to the bolts so you will know where you started. Loosen bolts and raise the actuator up until you see the LEVER raise up

off of the STOP. Lower it back down until the LEVER just touches the STOP then tighten bolts. Now, this is the way it was explained

to me but I found that set this close the boost gauge would rise to almost "0" while cruising at 80. I went back and readjusted

so I could cruise at 80 with no needle movement unless I barely moved the throttle (and I mean barely). This setting was probably

halfway between the stock setting and the just touching setting. The first thing I noticed was the needle jumped immediately to

10lbs and climbed from there. Stock it jumped to 9.5lbs and climbed. The total boost also increased by a 1/2lb to 1/4lb more.

I also ran a tick quicker with my fastest mph at the track. The temps were warmer and there was less traction (it rained until the track opened).

I think this adjustment is worth a small amount of speed. Besides, it's free.


Some good useful info on this forum LightningRodder:bigtu:woohoo
 

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823 Posts




INFO FROM "CHUCK'S LIGHTNING PAGE"

For those that have never seen it, IT'S AMAZING SEE IT HERE

(AND WORTH PUTTING IN YOUR FAVORITE FOLDER)

THANKS CHUCK



The boost actuator is located on the driver's side of the intake close to the firewall. There are (2) 10mm bolts that hold it in place.

One you can see in the pic and the other is on the backside of the actuator closest to the firewall. Pay attention to the slots location

in reference to the bolts so you will know where you started. Loosen bolts and raise the actuator up until you see the LEVER raise up

off of the STOP. Lower it back down until the LEVER just touches the STOP then tighten bolts. Now, this is the way it was explained

to me but I found that set this close the boost gauge would rise to almost "0" while cruising at 80. I went back and readjusted

so I could cruise at 80 with no needle movement unless I barely moved the throttle (and I mean barely). This setting was probably

halfway between the stock setting and the just touching setting. The first thing I noticed was the needle jumped immediately to

10lbs and climbed from there. Stock it jumped to 9.5lbs and climbed. The total boost also increased by a 1/2lb to 1/4lb more.

I also ran a tick quicker with my fastest mph at the track. The temps were warmer and there was less traction (it rained until the track opened).

I think this adjustment is worth a small amount of speed. Besides, it's free.


would this cause my boost to only boost 2lbs if it is adjusted wrong??
 

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Premium Member
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5,003 Posts
Could this be causing my stumbling effect when I try and roll into the throttle and she is just getting into boost?
 

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17,565 Posts
is the lever barely resting on the stop (when the motor is off) ?
 
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I paid my buck-o-five
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here are the pics, I just took these today, stock EGR and everything still in place

this is what I use to get at the rear bolt







this is how it hooks on






this is how I get at the front bolt










this is how it hooks on




 

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Guilty by Association
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19,345 Posts
I will say this, when I swapped my MP on last week I didn't leave the lever on the stop. I was always in boost so I adjusted it up just a hair. I'd say mine is up off the stop about the thickness of a matchbook cover. Keeps the bypass where it should be when cruising and quickly into boost as soon as the loud pedal is depressed
 

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Longest Lasting Fly-by Nighter Ever
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22,582 Posts
fwiw, I have been adjusting them with SLIGHT preload actually on the stop.

its been quite effective. picked up 0.6 psi on one truck
 

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Wile E. Coyote, Super Genius!
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10,984 Posts
Old thread, I know. Still useful though. I've never messed with the valve on mine in the ten years I've owned my truck. Finished up a MP swap yesterday. I put on a brand spanking new Boost Bypass Valve. Set it as recommended here, just barely resting on the stop when shut off. After starting the truck and letting it run for a bit, revving it pretty good also, when I shut it off, the valve didn't return to resting on the stop. It only went about halfway down, so it's in between open and closed. I'm guessing this is just a NEW valve thing. Now that it's where it's at, re-adjust it down to the stop, and all should be good?
 

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Wile E. Coyote, Super Genius!
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10,984 Posts
I have other problems right now. Got to stop that damn shrill high pitched whistle. Going to start dismantling it again, all the way to the plenum. Take off the gasket and put down some RTV. I hope this stops it. My midplate and blower gasket were both still good, being metal I've read they're reusable. Cleaned all the surfaces before putting them on. I'm hoping neither of them is the problem. Reality is once you have the plenum off, the blower and midplate are nothing flat. I hate them bolts on the back of the plenum!
 

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Wile E. Coyote, Super Genius!
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10,984 Posts
the plenum is supposed to have RTV.
Never used it myself. Used the stock gasket when I put the JLP on my stock Eaton. Ran great. Guess I got lucky. ;-)

Also got the P2195, P2197 codes. O2 codes, but usually caused by an air leak. Just idling in the garage, got them. Must be bad.
 

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Wile E. Coyote, Super Genius!
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10,984 Posts
Aside from that, you should have seen the horrible RTV job done when I bought this thing. It's a MP blower with a Jokerz port, the plenum ported to the blower. I took the plenum off because I always thought the two had to go on separate. So, when I pry the plenum off the blower, what do I find? RTV oozed out all over the inside of the intake throat. A bead of about 1/8 inch squeezed out into the throat area. Seems to me that totally defeats the purpose of having a blower with a larger intake throat, with the plenum and blower ported. Especially when one can simply reach their hand into the plenum and either clean off the squeeze out, or at the least, at least flatten it out and spread it over a larger area.

So, in the end, I'm glad I separated the two parts. I'll do a better job of it than that.
 
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