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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The truck has a high idle after the following maintenance was done.
1. TR6 plugs gapped to .037
2. New COPs
3. Turkey pan mod
4. Cleaned- Throttle body, IAC, MAF, plenum (used correct cleaner for given part). Not sure how the EGR even worked with the hole basically plugged where it attaches.
5. Oil separator added on passenger side
6. New intercooler pump

The truck runs great other than that, better than before actually. This was done because the intercooler pump was bad and there was a slight miss FYI. Only mods are 2lb pulley.

To keep it short I’ll list what has been checked and a few values that might help.
1. IAC is 10.1 ohms between pins and “no reading” with both pins to case.
2. Disconnecting IAC, the truck idles around 860 rpms (going off memory).
3. Disconnecting/bypassing the oil separator and new plumbing has no affect.
4. Spraying vacuum connections or near parts taken off during maintenance with TB cleaner didn’t affect the rpms.
5. TPS at .96 volts
Engine warm in Park
1. RPM 1004-1026
2. Vac 24.4”-24.7”
3. MAF 9.0-9.4
4. Load 11.8
5. Throttle position 20%
Engine warm in Drive
1. RPM 714-726
2. Vac 21.7-22.1
3. MAF 9.3-9.6
4. Load 20.8
5. Throttle position 20%

I’m thinking I’ve ruled out a vacuum leak with the values I’ve acquired and the testing I’ve done (could be wrong though). Could cleaning all the crap around the throttle body have done so much that it needs to be adjusted? I’ve read that some people have had “issues” with TR6 plugs at idle….? Like I’ve said before, the truck runs great other than the high idle. Thoughts?
 

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10 SECOND CLUB!
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TPS should be set to .99 ( do a search for how to)
You need to set your idle correctly. Disconnect the IAC and adjust idle to where it as just above stalling, lock set screw and reconnect IAC.
This should fix your problem.
 

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too high of an idle...

Just a thought....

When I plugged my t-pan and installed an oil catcher, I had to solder a restrictor to the bottom of my PCV valve as it was over drawing and pushing the idle motor past it's operating window.

Test this by unplugging the hose at the upper manifold and quickly put your finger over the hole. If it idles right down, then do the following mod.

I soldered a thin steel disc on the bottom of the PCV. I had drilled a 1/16" hole in it first. I guess a good epoxy would work, OR just place a restrictor inside the hose after the PCV valve.

Fixed my problem and it slowed down the oil draw too.

Miz
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
stkshkr,
Thanks for the response. I was holding off to see if it could be something else, but went ahead and did it anyways. I adjusted the screw all the way out with it no longer touching the TB stop and the truck wouldn't stall. I did get the rpms to drop low enough though.

Park Warm
RPM 815-840
Load 14.9-15.7 (went up...)
Throttle position 19.6

Drive Warm
RPM 622-646
Load 22.4 (went up...)
Throttle position 19.6

mizlplix,
I'll check that out when the weather lets me play. Thanks for the tip.
 

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stkshkr,
Thanks for the response. I was holding off to see if it could be something else, but went ahead and did it anyways. I adjusted the screw all the way out with it no longer touching the TB stop and the truck wouldn't stall. I did get the rpms to drop low enough though.

Park Warm
RPM 815-840
Load 14.9-15.7 (went up...)
Throttle position 19.6

Drive Warm
RPM 622-646
Load 22.4 (went up...)
Throttle position 19.6

mizlplix,
I'll check that out when the weather lets me play. Thanks for the tip.
Hey man Im having the same issue. Get it figured out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Unfortunately, I got it tolerable and never messed with it again. I might mess with it again now that I'm driving it more.

I don't think I tried what Miz recommended. I know when I canceled the vacuum line in the back it would have some adverse effect.
 

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Wile E. Coyote, Super Genius!
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I put TR-6 plugs in mine in 2019 when I did the MP swap, installed new coils with Mad Enterprises COP screws, cleaned the IC, deleted EGR and plugged turkey pan, redid all the IC hoses deleting the hard lines on the passenger side of the blower, did SVT Tim's shorty heater hoses and relocated the power steering reservoir to the fan shroud. I've had no issues at all. With an Accufab throttle body, it idles right around 700 in park/neutral. And around 550 in gear. I did set the TPS using a volt meter, and have it right around that 99 everyone says it should be at. Although, I recall reading on this very site, that the computer can compensate adequately if it is not at 99. I've read of some checking their stock TPS settings, and they were so low, like in the 60's and 70's, and there were no issues. I've changed the TPS on my old 98 V6 Ranger twice and never even bothered checking the voltage, it has always run great. YMMV!
 
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