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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed a new wiring harness (F150 with EATC) and transferred my Viper alarm from the old harness and I can't get the truck to start. The bad thing is I'm supposed to be using the truck to bring my g/f, her stuff, and tow her car from Florida to Michigan....Friday morning! This is killing me.

I took a quick video of what it's doing (click to play):


I put the key in, turned it to Accessory (two of the indicators light up on the dash, but the needles don't do their sweep), and then try to crank (when the lights go out).

The door switches light up like they should, but the gauge cluster won't light up at all, and neither will the a/c control unit. The blower comes on full blast on vent, but none of the control box buttons do anything.

I took my tester, and when I try to crank the truck, power is going through both sides of the Viper box, and to the fuse panel under the dash. That would lead me to think it was a problem with something factory. PATS maybe?

This same harness was used by another member here, and it was a complete plug and play. Mine had a little more complications because of the alarm, so I can't tell if I somehow missed a connection on the factory harness, or maybe the Viper alarm is killing the starter, or maybe it'll be as simple as one magic ground that I didn't see.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. If I can't get it running myself by 6, I'm having a guy from a stereo shop come out to the house. He knows how to install the alarms, and has had a similar year F150. If all else fails, I'll have him pull the alarm system out for now (to reinstall when I'm back from MI), but I don't want to go through paying him to do a bunch of work only to find that the alarm was fine and it was a Ford thing all along.

HELP!
 

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I highly doubt that it's a Ford thing. Something is wrong in the wiring. You ripped out a working harness and installed a new one and nothing is working right?

Is the cluster completely dead? Theft Light operation?

Have you double checked ALL of the bulkhead connections and the connections in the kick panels? That and yanking out the Viper would be my first steps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I highly doubt that it's a Ford thing. Something is wrong in the wiring. You ripped out a working harness and installed a new one and nothing is working right?

Is the cluster completely dead? Theft Light operation?

Have you double checked ALL of the bulkhead connections and the connections in the kick panels? That and yanking out the Viper would be my first steps.
The only lights I get on the cluster is ABS and Door Ajar. The theft light does not light up at all. (That's controlled by PATS, right?)

I've been checking the stock connectors, and I can't see anything I've missed. But of course, I'm going to keep checking and checking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
For the starter, I know power is going from the ignition to the viper box, out of the viper box, and to the fuse panel (on the inside). It's not getting to the solenoid. What would interrupt it between the two? I think the only connection is the firewall connections (the three big plugs). I got all three screwed in snuggly. ???
 

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Pats is only used when the key is cycled. The communication between the cluster and the PCM is what allows the vehicle to start. If you are not even getting a fast flashing theft light there is more than likely no power/communication to the cluster.
 

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Pats is only used when the key is cycled. The communication between the cluster and the PCM is what allows the vehicle to start. If you are not even getting a fast flashing theft light there is more than likely no power/communication to the cluster.
Kinda what it sounds like to me. The IC is needed for PATS operation, so if something is open, the truck will not start.
 

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Check power to the PCM at the PCM. Especially since you moved stuff around.

I had a car doing the same thing as your's and the PCM power had high resistance so the car would not start.
 

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There are five or six pins that provide power to the PCM. If the majority of the cluster is dead, I would look more towards the cluster wiring being suspect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I pulled out the outer shell of the dash, and started undoing connectors to get the inner dash and harness out. While I was under the driver's side, after pulling out the firewall connector, I saw that on the wiring going to the PATS box, there were three T taps, but only two had wires connected. (I previously found one wire from the Viper with a spade connector, but nowhere it could have gone). I connected it, reattached the other connectors, and tried it - nothing changed. :(

I did however see this, and wonder if it might amount to anything. It's a little cylinder on the left side of the steering column near the back of the column. It has a little connector with three male ends inside, but I don't see any plug hanging down to connect to it. I doubt it would by the solution to my problems, but it might fix something. ???




It's too cramped to get my light in, and my face close enough to read the p/n. Any ideas on what it is? If it needs to be connected, I think I'll have to remove the inner dash to see if a plug got caught behind the harness maybe, and would explain why I couldn't see it.


I will take a closer look at the PCM connections. I did have to install the blower controller box near that, so I might have jarred something loose.

I pulled the cluster, and the two connectors were snapped in tightly. Just to be sure, I reattached them and tried the truck again - with no change.

Thanks so much for all your help so far!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Oh, don't mind all my zip ties - I was rerouting the alarm system wiring, one at a time, and wanted them to all stay where I wanted. Next time, I'll be smart and just keep the zip ties loose enough where I could keep adding wires without having to add zip ties. :)
 

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There are five or six pins that provide power to the PCM. If the majority of the cluster is dead, I would look more towards the cluster wiring being suspect.
There is one main power going to the PCM. It's the same circuit that the PCM power relay and PCM Diode are on.
 

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Sorry my mistake. There are three power pins to the PCM.

Pins 55, 71 & 97.

And yes, a single fuse in the inside CJB will power the diode and the PCM power relay before it gets to the fuse in the BJB.



 

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You replaced the harness and ecu does that include the security system ? If you replaced the security system did you get keys that match that system ?

Reason I ask is that the chip in my key was wiped clear and when I went to start my truck it did the same thing as in your video. I had to have it towed to the dealership and they made me two new keys matched to my truck
 

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May be a dumb question, but what does that do?
Electronic solenoid that releases the actuator for the shifter cable. If you don't step on the brake the shifter will not shift out of park. Step on the brake and it releases the lock.

Seeing that it is down to the wire... I would start working on an alternate form of transportation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You replaced the harness and ecu does that include the security system ? If you replaced the security system did you get keys that match that system ?

Reason I ask is that the chip in my key was wiped clear and when I went to start my truck it did the same thing as in your video. I had to have it towed to the dealership and they made me two new keys matched to my truck
I only replaced the dash wiring harness and I transferred my Viper alarm system from my old harness to the new one. My stock ecu is still there.

Electronic solenoid that releases the actuator for the shifter cable. If you don't step on the brake the shifter will not shift out of park. Step on the brake and it releases the lock.

Seeing that it is down to the wire... I would start working on an alternate form of transportation.
I assume you mean that when properly connected, it requires the brake to be depressed. Right now, not hooked up, I can shift the truck out of park. I'll take the harness back out and see if that plug got tangled up in there somewhere.

I gave up yesterday on trying to get it running. Instead of towing her car, we're going to drive her little car up there, and I'll have to take a plane back home. :(
 

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With the possible issues that you might have on the road I think that would be the best idea. It would royally suck to be 1800 miles away from home with a wiring issue.
 
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