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help plug read
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Poc? I should clarify that I tune in lambda and commanding .75 it translates to 11.0 in gas terms. I have the stoich set for e85 in my tune
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on e85 11.0 on gas scale is little rich, try to shoot for 11.4-11.5
the plug looks great but needs heat in it, as you can see theres no timing mark
you could easily bump timing up into teens before it even starts to show on the strap
keep up the good work
the plug looks great but needs heat in it, as you can see theres no timing mark
you could easily bump timing up into teens before it even starts to show on the strap
keep up the good work
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Thanks. Trying to take it slow and not hurt anything. Glad I am on the right track. Scr is 10:1 dcr is 9:1 and boost holds at 24lbs on a ported eaton. So I was very hesitant to lean it out and bump timing.
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tuning off the plugs will tell you everything, that plug needs little more heat in it for a much cleaner burn.
lean it out to 11.3 and take timing to 11* and post up plugs
show me 1 and 8 then 3 and 5 after making the changes
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come on dave, you were jokin right and knew all along he was referring to a gas scale...........................................
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Lacks heat, no timing mark yet as mentioned
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This was #7 cylinder. I am going to change plugs this weekend and report back.
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For the guys saying it doesn't have enough heat in it (and I'm glad is was George and Eric, as they are both guys that know their stuff) I've always heard that 2.5-3 threads showing heat was optimum, and this looks to be right about there. Just trying to get some knowledge along the way.
Edit: After doing some more reading, are you guys making this suggestion based on the lack of color on the porcelain?
Edit: After doing some more reading, are you guys making this suggestion based on the lack of color on the porcelain?
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Porcelin is fine from this view...truly would need to cut threads off to see proper fuel ring
But as for heat look at the strap, there's no timing mark and also look at the base, e85 is harder to see heat but you can get some heat into it
Glad the OP is Not using a tr6 for this setup but if he was to them you would see a heat mark based on his current tune up and a hotter plug
But having a colder plug here is the better choice for when he adds a few degrees to tune up
But as for heat look at the strap, there's no timing mark and also look at the base, e85 is harder to see heat but you can get some heat into it
Glad the OP is Not using a tr6 for this setup but if he was to them you would see a heat mark based on his current tune up and a hotter plug
But having a colder plug here is the better choice for when he adds a few degrees to tune up
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What plugs are those? TR6s . I only run non projected tip spark plugs with my motor. Like the BR7EF or the AR472. Keeps the cylinders much cooler with no blow out.
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Look at the short turn on the strap, BR7
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Lol george. Yes it is a br7 plug. I started out with tr6 cause I read a lot on how e85 burns colder so wasn't sure if I needed the hotter plug. But changed to the br7 for safety before doing any wot tuning. Only tuned Driveablilty with the tr6. I was not sure what boost was going to be since I am running a custom 11" lower with a 2.7 upper.
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Gotcha, I guess I was just confusing terms. I've always looked at the strap for timing, with optimal timing being in the bend of the strap. Obviously this changes with combinations.
As for heat range, if it's too cold you'll only see it on ~1 thread, if it's too hot you'll see it on ~4 threads.
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To hot you'll see it get real dark...think of a proper weld. A good looking weld is colorful now a to hot of weld is dark and dull ...similar to a strap
Ideally you want timing mark on center of bend. With the OP plug it shows no heat what so ever...
Wish more members would tune off plugs and not just go off what ABC tuners say is safe.....plugs never lie
Ideally you want timing mark on center of bend. With the OP plug it shows no heat what so ever...
Wish more members would tune off plugs and not just go off what ABC tuners say is safe.....plugs never lie
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