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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
So I gave my frame guy a call and he said it acted like it wanted to start but noticed that the "Theft" light was flashing.
Luckily I had my keys programmed at the Ford dealer, so all I have to do is haul it back over there again. The pain is the drive to both of the places. I guess I can't complain. Just another obstacle.

Thanks again for the info men.
 

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Worlds Fastest Street HD Truck
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your other option is you can disable PATS in the tune (need a tuner to do it for you, not a DIY option), and the truck will start w/o a programmed key. The down side is you don't have that passive theft feature anymore, but it may help the situation for now. You can always get the keys programed w/ the truck for PATS, and have it turned back on in the tune later.
 

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your other option is you can disable PATS in the tune (need a tuner to do it for you, not a DIY option), and the truck will start w/o a programmed key. The down side is you don't have that passive theft feature anymore, but it may help the situation for now. You can always get the keys programed w/ the truck for PATS, and have it turned back on in the tune later.
Great point! Didn't even think about that. Was gonna do the same so I could run the Lightning cluster easier but didn't want to lose my door keypad operation lol. If you don't have a hand held tuner and someone to do it that may end up being the more expensive route though.
 

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I don't think disabling the PATS disables the door keypad. I could be wrong though, just never heard that before.

Most tuners probably wouldn't have a problem sending you a tune revision w/ the PATS turned off just to get your stuff situated, especially if you're going for a full tune once you're all situated. May be the cheaper option before towing to the dealer and paying key programming costs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
I'm taking my other key down to him tonight for him to try. If that doesn't work, he has a guy that will program the keys for $50. I was planning on hauling it back to the Ford Dealer to fix their mistake but realized that the gas it would take to go get it, haul it there, haul it back, etc would cost me more than $50.

If the other key works, then I'm golden. If not, $50 it is.

I also will be picking up the white fender I bought to paint it red so he can line it all up.

I'll post some pics here in a minute. I had to buy another gas tank. Had some Michigan Cancer, so I made it nice again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
Right frame rail was in. I don't have the repaired pics but it's back in shape.

Tanks side by side. Left one is the "new" one. Then you can see how smashed the old one was. Last is the finished product.


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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
Confirmed that both keys do not work. Moving on to reprogramming.

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
Anyone ever hear of an inertia switch? :drunks:

Frame guy tested that out - fired right up. Derrrrrrr
The Theft light didn't flash but stayed illuminated. (When we had initially tried)
Saved myself $50. Happy about that!

IT'S ALIVE! :rockon_ford
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
Dad took the freshly painted fender down to get it all lined up on the truck while it was down there.

Grille surround is painted and ready to be installed. Working on painting the rear bumper now.

All brackets and mounting plates have been transferred to the new front bumper.

Realized there were a few cracks in the headlight panel, so I got a new one of those as well. That is mounted and ready to go.




I did the inner/outer tie rods which was the major part that needed replaced. Alignment shop all done last friday 10/19.
Drove the truck home Monday evening.

It needs driven pretty bad. Been sitting for a year pretty much.
The fuel tank is obviously clean, but I have fuel filter/system concerns.
I'm going to put in a new fuel filter - if someone can tell me the exact location, that'd be great, but I'll find it if not.

When I drove it home - maybe 5 miles, I gave her a little right pedal, sounds good, but sputtered around 3-4k rpm.
It didn't die - I just let off and drove it normal. I feel it is just a little gummed up and needs driven for 20-30 miles.
Now, I'm not sure how much fuel I have. It's on E but I think the sensor isn't working. I could be wrong.
Frame guy put gas in it, which I thought he said was a fresh 5 gallons, but I'm not sure.
Next test, I'm going to put 5 gallons or so of 97 in it to see if I can get a reading. If not, I'm going to have to drop the tank again.
With a new fuel filter of course.

Any suggestions on a fuel system cleaner? Maybe SeaFoam or something I can run through it from it sitting so long?
Along with any other suggestions?
 

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Congrats on getting her driveable! New filter and Seafoam would be a good start. You can find the filter along the driver's side framerail just under the cab. What do the plugs look like? Also check the plastic "y" in the fuel pump assembly, as it's been known to crack...replace it with a stainless piece, submersible hose, and no-pinch fuel injection clamps if you end up having to go in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
Some work on the bumper. Its not too bad and is coming out better than expect. Primer soon.


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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
Today I had the chance to put the steel bumper, grille, headlights and such on. Test fit then bolted down. Cooler bracket that bolts to the bumper was a little jarred out of its rubber bumpers, so that's all fixed and bolted down. I also took the box side back off so I can start the body work on that.

I love the headlights I chose.


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At least you're still here and still working on it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
Here's the deal. All cosmetic issues are resolved. Looks beautiful. Only thing I wish I had was a stock lower grille. Aftermarket one looks out of place but it'll do for now.

I started out with a motor that felt like it had a miss.
New plugs, new coil packs, new fuel pump - didn't change anything. Mechanic thought maybe it was a bad motor mount causing a little shake.
Had a leak down test done - found that cylinder 2 had carbon build up and was a potential diagnosis of the miss.

Took the motor out - had the heads resurfaced, did a valve job.
New chains, guides, gaskets. Guy said the guides were barely worn. He had seen much worse.
My truck has 110k miles. Everything looked good.
I got the motor back last Saturday (5/1) and I proceeded to reinstall.
After spending around 4 hours per night after work, I was done by Wednesday. I bought new injector and gave it new motor mounts.as well.
Had some issues with the new injectors leaking, took a chunk out of 2 O-rings upon install - my fault, didn't have any dielectric grease - used my old ones. Works fine now.

Still have a slight shake at idle. It runs ok but you can just feel that it has this miss and I'm assuming I'm not harnessing 100% of its potential HP.

I'm now on the road to wondering what electrical isn't behaving 100%.

Does anyone have any idea what could cause such an issue?

Damn electrical gremlins are gonna drive me mad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
Before surgery - Very thankful for some of the posts on here. Taking the AC pump off, motor mount out of the way, 7 trans bolts (access to 2 of them when lower intake removed), 6 flywheel nuts. Helpful info for removal ! Thank you LR.

544400


What am I getting myself into.

544401


Coming out.

544404



Out!
544405


Going back in. Nice and clean and painted.

544406


Upper Intake on.

544407


Next stage on.

544408


Motor is in and buttoned up.

544409


Front end on.

544410


Sittin pretty.

544411
 

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You're right, the lower grill looks terrible. I would get something close to stock. This link will hurt when you look at the price.


I would hook a scan tool up and see if you can find out if a cylinder is missing. It might be as simple as a plug, COP or an injector. I used Forescan to find my miss.

Forescan will also allow you to program your own keys. Very easy to do.
 
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