[DebtLife Projects]

So my new video is up, Part 1 of the Full Custom Fuel System that I came up with, detailed install, and all that good stuff! It worked out pretty awesome (I think), I'm very happy with the outcome!
I also put a full, detailed description of how I routed it, with the full parts list, all with part numbers for every fitting, whole nine yards, in the video's description on YouTube! Alot of time and effort went into that alone, lol, so if you could check it out, and give it a like, that'd be awesome!

Also open to any suggestions or constructive criticism on what I came up with, or anything else you spot in the process/video. Basically watching me learn in real time lol! I get better at the hoses/clamps in part 2, pretty much got it down now, part 1 is alittle sketchy, but you gotta start somewhere 🤷‍♂️

 

[SuperCrewzer]

Good stuff. I had stock my fuel hat modified to go with -8 feed and return lines.

 

[[email protected]]

My thoughts;

Should have used the Fore FC2 controller and wiring. It uses weather pack connections so no cutting or crimping for fuel pump connections. Also no "eyelet" connections that can corrode or come loose. It also allows for an easy disconnect at the hat in case you have to drop the tank again. You cutting your stock hat harness and leaving some of it up there is messy and wont allow you to sell your stock hat which can help recoup some of the fuel system cost.

Y block should not be mounted directly to the back of the rail. Y blocks should be mounted solid somewhere instead of left hanging. One reason why I dont use them and run my system in series. Another reason is less hose and clutter. One less line going to the regulator which allows for easy mounting of the regulator on the edge of the solenoid bracket. Two lines going into regulator are going to force you to come up with a mounting solution for the regulator that will be challenging.

180 Fittings on the front of the rails with lines going back makes more clutter for spark plug changes and general work in that area. Just more stuff to deal with in tight locations especially on the drivers side.

A 45* fitting at the back of the passenger side rail allows clearance from the heater tube. No need for an "extension" fitting.

Push lok is a PITA as you can surely agree with. PTFE hose and fittings are actually easier to work with when you get used to it and PTFE doesnt allow any fuel vapor smell at all and is E85 compatible. If your going to do a fuel system you should always do one that is E85 compatible even if you dont plan on running E85 because the next guy might want to.

Running the fuel feed line on the outside of the frame rail not only allows for easier fuel filter changes but you can also install a drain in line that is easier to access (for those that change fuels) Running them inside the rail is a bit tighter especially right near the hat area.

Just my .02

[email protected]

 

[DebtLife Projects]

My thoughts;

Should have used the Fore FC2 controller and wiring. It uses weather pack connections so no cutting or crimping for fuel pump connections. Also no "eyelet" connections that can corrode or come loose. It also allows for an easy disconnect at the hat in case you have to drop the tank again. You cutting your stock hat harness and leaving some of it up there is messy and wont allow you to sell your stock hat which can help recoup some of the fuel system cost.

Y block should not be mounted directly to the back of the rail. Y blocks should be mounted solid somewhere instead of left hanging. One reason why I dont use them and run my system in series. Another reason is less hose and clutter. One less line going to the regulator which allows for easy mounting of the regulator on the edge of the solenoid bracket. Two lines going into regulator are going to force you to come up with a mounting solution for the regulator that will be challenging.

180 Fittings on the front of the rails with lines going back makes more clutter for spark plug changes and general work in that area. Just more stuff to deal with in tight locations especially on the drivers side.

A 45* fitting at the back of the passenger side rail allows clearance from the heater tube. No need for an "extension" fitting.

Push lok is a PITA as you can surely agree with. PTFE hose and fittings are actually easier to work with when you get used to it and PTFE doesnt allow any fuel vapor smell at all and is E85 compatible. If your going to do a fuel system you should always do one that is E85 compatible even if you dont plan on running E85 because the next guy might want to.

Running the fuel feed line on the outside of the frame rail not only allows for easier fuel filter changes but you can also install a drain in line that is easier to access (for those that change fuels) Running them inside the rail is a bit tighter especially right near the hat area.

Just my .02

[email protected]

I appreciate the Input JJ! Thanks for taking the time to watch and give your thoughts, I don't mind learning!

So, it seems mostly preference type of things, nothing of actual consequence or that's being done wrong, right? I run everything by Korn and the local Lightning OG that's helping me with the truck (Rob Saner/Neil Otis), and they were happy with everything I'm doing.

The Y block idea I actually got from Gumby, i've seen his posts where he mounted it directly to the rail, and liked the way he did it. It's held there pretty well with the 90 female-female fitting. When tight, thing doesn't move at all. Not like I hung it from hoses and just dangled it there. The line clutter I get, but I dont mind alittle extra hose. I think I routed it pretty good and clean, and made sure I could get to, and access everything pretty easily. Thought ahead about plug changes, since I'll be doing alot of plug reading when tuning, and anything else I'd have to work on in that area.
Didn't want to make stuff down the road a pain lol. Part 2 shows my regulator solution, and i'm happy with it. It did take alittle fabricating (a bracket I made at the shop) and going back and forth with potential places to put it, but I think it worked out nice. You can tell me what you think when Part 2 is up.

I tried a 45 to clear the coolant crossover, and it cleared the stock one I was using as mock up, but I went to put it on the truck, and it still hit the Tim White coolant crossover. Not sure if it's that much more bulky because of the an fittings, or what, but It didn't work out when I went to put it on the truck. So I ended up grabbing a straight extension and that worked.

Korn is the one that actually recommended the Fragola push loc, and said it'd be fine for E85, if that's something I end up wanting to do down the road, it's what he uses alot. I'd definitely need more pump/injector though lol. It was a PITA to install at first for sure, but after a few fittings, I figured out what worked for clamping, how long to boil, and how to apply pressure, and they started just sliding right on for the most part, wasn't tooooo bad after some practice lol. I don't really wanna do it again anytime soon though, that's for sure lol. But it was cool, pretty neat experience doing it myself.

I like the idea of a drain in line, do you have more info on what you use or a good way to approach that? I was thinking about that after getting it together, and how I don't really wanna have to keep undoing that an fitting at the filter, increasing chances of gulling the threads. So I'd love to see what you do for that and the filter area!

Thanks again for the detailed feedback! Looking forward to what you think of part 2 and when it's all finished up.

 

[[email protected]]

I appreciate the Input JJ! Thanks for taking the time to watch and give your thoughts, I don't mind learning!

So, it seems mostly preference type of things, nothing of actual consequence or that's being done wrong, right? I run everything by Korn and the local Lightning OG that's helping me with the truck (Rob Saner/Neil Otis), and they were happy with everything I'm doing.

The Y block idea I actually got from Gumby, i've seen his posts where he mounted it directly to the rail, and liked the way he did it. It's held there pretty well with the 90 female-female fitting. When tight, thing doesn't move at all. Not like I hung it from hoses and just dangled it there. The line clutter I get, but I dont mind alittle extra hose. I think I routed it pretty good and clean, and made sure I could get to, and access everything pretty easily. Thought ahead about plug changes, since I'll be doing alot of plug reading when tuning, and anything else I'd have to work on in that area.
Didn't want to make stuff down the road a pain lol. Part 2 shows my regulator solution, and i'm happy with it. It did take alittle fabricating (a bracket I made at the shop) and going back and forth with potential places to put it, but I think it worked out nice. You can tell me what you think when Part 2 is up.

I tried a 45 to clear the coolant crossover, and it cleared the stock one I was using as mock up, but I went to put it on the truck, and it still hit the Tim White coolant crossover. Not sure if it's that much more bulky because of the an fittings, or what, but It didn't work out when I went to put it on the truck. So I ended up grabbing a straight extension and that worked.

Korn is the one that actually recommended the Fragola push loc, and said it'd be fine for E85, if that's something I end up wanting to do down the road, it's what he uses alot. I'd definitely need more pump/injector though lol. It was a PITA to install at first for sure, but after a few fittings, I figured out what worked for clamping, how long to boil, and how to apply pressure, and they started just sliding right on for the most part, wasn't tooooo bad after some practice lol. I don't really wanna do it again anytime soon though, that's for sure lol. But it was cool, pretty neat experience doing it myself.

I like the idea of a drain in line, do you have more info on what you use or a good way to approach that? I was thinking about that after getting it together, and how I don't really wanna have to keep undoing that an fitting at the filter, increasing chances of gulling the threads. So I'd love to see what you do for that and the filter area!

Thanks again for the detailed feedback! Looking forward to what you think of part 2 and when it's all finished up.

Everyone is going to do a fuel system a bit differently and have different ideas on what works and what doesnt.

Most likely I've put together and installed more fuel systems here than most others so my critique comes from what I like to see and how I like to see it done. That does not mean that one way is right and one way is wrong, its just a preference.

The Y block on the end of the rail IMHO is a really bad idea.Engine Torque, vibration etc... will transmit to that Y block and it could loosen the fittings. I'm not saying it will but I am saying it might and the problem is that directly below and to a few inches to the right is the drivers side header. I personally do not like any part of my fuel system to be near or above exhaust, which is why I run my feed line on the outside of the frame rail, along the electrical harness and feed the front of the drivers side rail. Running the feed line inside the frame rail and up to the back of the drivers side head puts your lines and connections in close proximity to hot exhaust components.

As far as the type of hose goes, again thats a preference. I just prefer PTFE lined hose so there is no fuel vapor smell especially on trucks that stay in a garage for days on end. PTFE lined hose is also the only hose truly rated to keep up with E85.

I usually install a drain valve right after the fuel filter with a -8 male fitting and supply the customer with a section of hose with a female -8 fitting so they can hook up and drain. The fore setup also allows you to trigger the pumps with a seperate switch so they run full time so you can drain easily. (I'm sure you can rig up Josh's setup to do the same, I just did not see that as an option in your video) There are several different drain valves available that work well.

One of the reasons why my fuel systems come with the lines already pre cut to length and the fittings already installed is because of two reasons, one it makes it easier for the end user and two its because when my hoses leave here they are pressure tested and ensured not to leak. Installing my system takes about 1/3rd of the time of someone figuring it all out themselves.

Anyway, good job and keep the videos coming.

[email protected]

 

[joedoinitbig]

@DebtLife Projects nice work and keep them videos coming.

@[email protected] I like your advice on the fuel lines outside of the frame rail, I just changed the filter the other week and I have no lift.... it would have been much more convenient to change outside the frame rail. Also they are very close to the exhaust and whoever built my truck originally had to wrap a section of the lines for this reason.

I am doing new headers and exhaust once the parts come in, I might move the fuel lines then.

Good stuff

 

[bubba502]

I did something similar with my stock fuel hat. but welded in the fittings and ran a single 525 pump. pretty easy and inexpensive upgrade

 

[DebtLife Projects]

For those following this thread, here's the link to part 2, just put it up today. I think it came out pretty good, Im stoked, almost time to fire it up! 😁🤘