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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so I'm looking at upgrading my full fuel system. Trying to figure out what is the nicest way to route all the lines. I get that there's really no difference in running the system in parallel or in series. Could you post pictures up of what your systems look like? I like the way it looks when you 180 out of the front of both rails I just can't decide if that's the route I want to take.
 

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TT
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There are many variables. Are you running two, three in an hat or one big single external pump?
 

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Worlds Fastest Street HD Truck
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Whatever route you go, I can't recommend highly enough go with PTFE (Teflon) hose. Worth every single penny for the added cost over regular fuel hose for NO fuel smell whatsoever.

My setup is a single Weldon pump, 12AN in, 10AN out, filter on each side, 10AN up to a Y-block, 8AN to each rail (JLP rails), rails to an aeromotive pro-series regulator, then an 8AN return. Custom Gambino fuel cell powdercoated black.

Personally I prefer keeping the rails in parallel, but guys have ran them in series on big power builds with no issues.
 

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Panty Dropper
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There are many variables. Are you running two, three in an hat or one big single external pump?
I may be misinterpreting, but I think he's concerned with the plumbing at the rails, not necessarily from the tank to the rails.

This thread (http://www.lightningrodder.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3968337) has a lot of good information, as well as different opinions to confuse you more lol.

As far as lines from the tank, I ran them how the stock lines were initially ran with some insulated clamps to secure them to the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have a fore hat with a - 10 feed - 8 return currently that I'm going to use for this setup. Thanks Josh
 

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So is that why garage smells like fuel because of the lines? lol
 

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Worlds Fastest Street HD Truck
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Josh do u feed the fuel rails to the front first or rear?
I feed the rear, but it doesn't matter which end you feed.

I feed the rear because it eliminates 1 hose set. Rather than a Y-block feeding each rail with a hose off each Y port, I have a 90* AN coupler fitting directly on one port of my Y-block attached to the back of the drivers rail, and a hose on the other port going to the passenger rail. This keeps my Y-block physically locked in place being locked to the fuel rail, and is 2 less hose fittings and 1 less piece of hose. Then the fronts of my rails return to my FPR.

So is that why garage smells like fuel because of the lines? lol
Without a doubt. I had nylon braided lines before, and even with them fully loomed and taped from front to back, the garage stunk so bad of fuel it was obnoxious. If the truck sat for a few days it'd go away, but as soon as I drove it, it would smell for days. As soon as I swapped over to PTFE lines, problem solved. Zero fuel smell whatsoever.
 

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I feed the rear, but it doesn't matter which end you feed.

I feed the rear because it eliminates 1 hose set. Rather than a Y-block feeding each rail with a hose off each Y port, I have a 90* AN coupler fitting directly on one port of my Y-block attached to the back of the drivers rail, and a hose on the other port going to the passenger rail. This keeps my Y-block physically locked in place being locked to the fuel rail, and is 2 less hose fittings and 1 less piece of hose. Then the fronts of my rails return to my FPR.
Very similar to my setup. I have a tee that attaches to the rear of my pass side rail then a 90 off the tee. Fuel comes in the 90 and goes into the tee. Tee goes directly into pass rail and a hose runs from the tee to the drivers side rail. Look into jiffy tite fittings, I added a valved quick disconnect off the 90 fitting which is very user friendly.

Here are some old pics from when I was using stock lines but you get the idea. I am also now also using the black nylon coated fragola ftfe hoses.


Pass side
Auto part Fuel line Engine Vehicle Plumbing
Drivers side
Auto part Fuel line Engine Plumbing Automotive engine part
 

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I tried to stick with Y blocks over tee's just to help smooth out the flow path, although at 40+ PSI in the rails it probably doesn't matter that much.

It would be nice to use the jiffy tite fittings on the feed/return to make hooking up and disconnecting quicker, I've just never been too sold over on them for a high flow use, although they may be perfectly fine, I just still need to be convinced more. I use them on my drain fittings and they work great.
 

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I tried to stick with Y blocks over tee's just to help smooth out the flow path, although at 40+ PSI in the rails it probably doesn't matter that much.

It would be nice to use the jiffy tite fittings on the feed/return to make hooking up and disconnecting quicker, I've just never been too sold over on them for a high flow use, although they may be perfectly fine, I just still need to be convinced more. I use them on my drain fittings and they work great.
They offer high flow versions for race use. Also, different sealing materials for different fuels and valves to prevent fluid loss when disconnecting

Good stuff & very well built. I love mine

-10an @ 20psi "valved" fitting flows 14.6 gallons per minute.

I wonder what -8an at 40+psi flows?
 

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Worlds Fastest Street HD Truck
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They offer high flow versions for race use. Also, different sealing materials for different fuels and valves to prevent fluid loss when disconnecting

Good stuff & very well built. I love mine

-10an @ 20psi "valved" fitting flows 14.6 gallons per minute.

I wonder what -8an at 40+psi flows?
that's the data I'd like to see more of. Flow rates at operating pressures for the quick connect vs. valved quick connect vs. standard AN
 
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