Lightning Rodder banner

1 - 20 of 50 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,055 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
What kind of special tool do I need to remove my transmission lines from the radiator? Also what size are the torque converter nuts?
 

·
NO RAGRETS!!!
Joined
·
12,119 Posts
What year truck? There are two types of tranny cooler lines. One is a 13mm and the other needs a special tool to remove the quick disconnect fitting.

The converter nuts are 9/16.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,250 Posts
do these have to be taken loose to take the motor out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,250 Posts
dont mean to hijack this thread but what are the most important things to remember and what are the hardest things about pulling the motor? Im seriously considering tackling it this winter, but dont want to get in over my head, i am pretty handy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,055 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Can I get that transmission cooler line tool at oriellys or vatozone.... The cooler lines and converter nuts are the biggest snags right now.... Also does the water pump, harmonic balancer and oil cooler need to come off before the engine gets pulled?
 

·
Building a fast catfish!!!
Joined
·
15,687 Posts
wouldnt hurt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,055 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Forgot to ask I do need a 14mm Allen wrench to remove the filter piece....
 

·
Slowly But Surely
Joined
·
3,528 Posts
I ended up having to cut my trans lines to get the radiator out. Even with the lower pulley still on mine I ended up getting the motor out without hurting my condensor.

Once you get ready to pull the motor be sure you brace the transmission as I didn't and got lucky that I didnt bust my driveway or my trans pan, its a heavy mofo.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,055 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Guys is there such a thing, maybe I was overlooking this today when trying to remove the torque converter nuts.... Seen this over on nloc.net

4. There's a little metal access plate on the motor face of the bellhousing at the bottom. At first glance this looks like the way you're supposed to get at the torque converter nuts. Its not. There's a rubber plug in the block on the driver's side that gives you a straight shot at these nuts with a ratchet.
 

·
R.I.P #3005
Joined
·
3,733 Posts
Guys is there such a thing, maybe I was overlooking this today when trying to remove the torque converter nuts.... Seen this over on nloc.net

4. There's a little metal access plate on the motor face of the bellhousing at the bottom. At first glance this looks like the way you're supposed to get at the torque converter nuts. Its not. There's a rubber plug in the block on the driver's side that gives you a straight shot at these nuts with a ratchet.
The little plastic plug is their, I used the metal plate it was just easier for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,055 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Where is this plastic plug the guy speaks of, I guess I didn't see it...?
 

·
I paid my buck-o-five
Joined
·
75,542 Posts
Where is this plastic plug the guy speaks of, I guess I didn't see it...?

crawl under the truck on the drivers side, look on the front side of the bellhousing (towards the oil pan) you'll see the plug...
 

·
NO RAGRETS!!!
Joined
·
12,119 Posts
Use the bottom access panel to get to the converter.

Local auto parts store will more than likely not have the special tool needed for the trans line fittings. Do not remove the large fitting from the radiator.

You do not need to remove the lower pulley or the water but with the engine still installed it would be 300% easier to remove the stock lower pulley.

Aside from removing the radiator, remove the wiper cowls and the wire loom cover at the top of the firewall. It will give you a ton of room.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,055 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Now when I pull the engine, do I need to unbolt the motor mounts from the block right before I pull the engine, I already have the oil cooler, the round deal unbolted so just curious to make things a lot easier.....
 
1 - 20 of 50 Posts
Top