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Your friend must be installing carpet at Ford because he obviously doesn't know engines.
To really know if the parts are "worn out" or not usable will require precision measuring tools and and NDI inspection, not a visual. And the sprockets will wear faster than the cam lobes due to the fact that the chains are exerting the force on them in a way that will generate wear patterns far faster than the lubricated roller on a rocker arm will on the cams. Run those cams and sprockets and you will be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #102 (Edited)
Well that was what my gut instinct told me, but again, I'm not overly familiar with these motors so I figured it was worth asking.

Edit: I don't know what he does at Ford. I know he's in the engineering department and that's it. Like I said, he was a friend of a friend.
 

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I work at ford also and agree with using what u got the sprockets look good to me and yes the sprockets would wear faster than lobes. I would replace springs and followers tho.
 

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Discussion Starter #104
IT'S HAPPENING!!! Thanks to this country's 'quarantine' I was able to drop off the engine at the machine shop today! 3 weeks or less from today, I should have a new shortblock and fresh heads!

Which does bring us back to our current question; what to do about the cams. Sure, I could run the stock ones, and aftermarket ones, at least the ones I'm looking at, really won't give me much of a hp or torque increase, but... I'm this far into it.

The XE262-AH seems to be a popular one for street trucks and cars. It sounds decent from the few clips on youtube (which is what this is really about) and doesn't have a high rpm range. Would I really be wasting money if I bought these? I'm running a 34" tire with 4.56 gears, if any of that matters in your decision.
 

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If ur after the sound install cams. But if ur after good lowend torque for towing then i would use the stock cams or get custom cams cuz any of the off the shelf cams are for street/strip cars and truck. They dont make a towing cam that i have seen for the 5.4 modular motors
 

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Discussion Starter #106
Damn, I was afraid that's what this would come down to: practicality vs fun.

Okay, I've got a few days before I really have to decide, so I'll think on it and let you guys know which way I decide to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
Look what I've got!!!




That's also an 8# Metco quick change pulley in the background as well. It fits perfectly over my balancer, and it's slightly larger in diameter than the old one too. So I'm thinking the old one may belong to a Terminator Mustang and was mislabeled in the sale.

Anyways, now I'll be able to get the new connector spliced into my existing harness, and get Slevin's fuel pumps dropped into my tank!
 

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Slevin
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Quarantine ain't all bad :)
 
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Discussion Starter #109
So, do you guys have any recommendations for lifter and follower replacements? A few of my lifters were spongy when I checked them after removal.
 

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So, do you guys have any recommendations for lifter and follower replacements? A few of my lifters were spongy when I checked them after removal.
It's possible the oil just drained but oem style replacements can be had pretty easy. I wouldn't sweat gt500 followers in your build.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Good gravy it's taken a while and I still don't have the engine back. Machine shop just called me today and said that there was a little rust in a few cylinders that required boring .040 to get it to clean up. I'm not familiar with the 5.4L blocks at all. Is that still a safe bore to go to on these engines? They haven't assembled or balanced the rotating assembly yet, so now's the time to stop them if I need to.
 

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Slevin
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I have no idea honestly, I think that's a question for the vendors/motor builders.
My block only was .020 over
 

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Discussion Starter #114
Welp, I called JDM and they said "absolutely not". Their standard is .020 with the occasional .030 for customers with lower hp builds, but .040 is never recommended for boosted applications because the walls just get so thin. They do not sell any rings or pistons in .040 for this reason.

So... now to find a new block, and to possibly argue with the machine shop on costs incurred thus far.
 

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Factory cylinder walls have split at stock power levels (although extremely rare), factory cylinder walls have also held up to 800-900hp. In other words its a total gamble. But yea I wouldn't recommend anything over a .020 on a boosted engine. Now if you slap some darton sleeves in that block yea we can sing a different tune, but that's a decent chunk of money.
 

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Discussion Starter #116
Yeah, I'm not doing that. This is going in a +6000 lb 4x4 and it's supposed to be a "budget" build. Machine shop was skeptical so he called JDM to talk to the guy as well. After their conversation he was convinced enough too, so now we're looking for another block. Let this be a lesson to all of you. This engine sat in a heated shop for 2 years and was able to collect enough condensation inside to ruin the block. Rotate your engines and keep them oiled if they're in storage!

Damn. Well, here's a few picture that I took over lunch break anyways.




 

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Discussion Starter #117
Fortuitous timing; I hopped on the ol' bookface on Friday and was looking through classifieds when I noticed a guy 25 minutes away had just put up an ad for 5.4 2V block and rotating assembly. It came out of an Expedition that had spun a rod bearing. $100 later and it was in the bed of my truck. I didn't have to go to a pick and pull, didn't have to tear down a complete engine, and I don't have a bunch of extra useless heads, timing covers, chains etc. laying around my shop either.

I just dropped it off at the machine shop where they're getting ready to put it into rotation.
 
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