Lightning Rodder banner

81 - 100 of 117 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #81
Okay sorry for the late update, but they do NOT interchange.




As you can see, the stock '98 pump on the right has a different connector than the stock '03 HD/Lightning pumps on the left. Thankfully, the local parts store had a pump in stock I was able to put in the tank, and go on my way. However, this does bring up the question of what I will have to use when I do the swap. Does anyone have any recommendations?
 

·
Slevin
Joined
·
961 Posts
find a wiring diagram and see if you are able to get all of the signals you need

talk to Josh about a fuel pump wiring kit potentially
 

·
Worlds Fastest Street HD Truck
Joined
·
14,528 Posts
I don't see how the ECU is going to control both pumps.
Our ECU doesn't control both either.....it just controls 1 wire that is then split to go to both pumps. That split happens at the fuel hat wiring. So the ECU doesn't know if there's 1 pump or 2, it just does the same control for whatever is connected.

Okay sorry for the late update, but they do NOT interchange.




As you can see, the stock '98 pump on the right has a different connector than the stock '03 HD/Lightning pumps on the left. Thankfully, the local parts store had a pump in stock I was able to put in the tank, and go on my way. However, this does bring up the question of what I will have to use when I do the swap. Does anyone have any recommendations?

Yup the plug is just different. If you peel back the factory harness on a s/c truck, you'll see the 2 wires for the 2 pumps splice into 1 wire like a foot back lol. All you need to do is cut off the pigtail and splice it into the other. Plug it up and you're on your way. Colors for ground & sending unit are the same.

I do have an upgrade harness, so the pumps get less voltage drop on the OEM wiring, which does increase fuel pressure for peak pump performance. Let me know if you'd like one. Best to email me as I'm not on LR as frequently as i'd like (hdcircuitry(AT)gmail(DOT)com).

I did the exact same mod on my n/a 00 HD that I did the s/c setup on. Put a dual pump hat with my OEM wiring and N/A PCM. I just cut the connector off my OEM hat, spliced it onto the dual pump hat, and plugged it in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #84
Wow, thank you so much for that info! I was having a hard time tracking down a wiring diagram that I trusted, and then I got busy with life, blah blah blah and put this on the back burner.

If you peel back the factory harness on a s/c truck, you'll see the 2 wires for the 2 pumps splice into 1 wire like a foot back lol. All you need to do is cut off the pigtail and splice it into the other. Plug it up and you're on your way. Colors for ground & sending unit are the same.
Well shit. Had I known that, I would have certainly cut the harness off the stock truck to use for the swap, but it is now long gone. However, based on what you're telling me, I can do the same thing with my stock harness. Only then the splice will be pump side of the connector instead of the chassis side... which honestly makes not a damn bit of difference. It does make me curious why Ford would do that though. One would think it would've been easier to keep all chassis harnesses the same and only change things at the pump, but I'm sure there's a fiscal reason somewhere.

Man, I can't tell you how happy I am to know this now.


Also, I've been prepping the block for delivery to the machine shop in early March. This project is FINALLY happening. I'm getting married in late fall of this year and I'm going to have this swap completed before I have to start making financial decisions via committee.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #85
Hey friends! So I'm getting close to hauling this to the machine shop, but I did think of a question. Since most shops are not used to dealing with Lightning motors, should I purchase the pistons and rings from a place like jlp or jdm myself, or would you trust a shop not to put in N/A 5.4L stuff? I already have GT500 rods that I purchased separately.

Motor will have stock cams, GT500 rods, stock crank, stock block, stock heads, ported s/c and intake plenum, CAI with corresponding MAF, and a 6# or 8# pulley in front. Nothing radical, but should end up being a fun 4x4. I'll be delivering the engine in pieces. I only need the shop to put together the rotating assembly and clean up the heads. I'll be the one reattaching the heads, timing chain, front cover, etc.

What would you do?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #86
Okay, well while you guys are mulling that decision over, here's another question for you. I purchased this used pulley off of marketplace. I was told it was a lightning 8# pulley. The 3 attachment bolt holes seem to line up perfectly with the harmonic balancer pulley, but the ID is too small for my crank snout. Did someone pull a fast move on me, or am I missing something here? I noticed that some aftermarket pulley manufacturers have two different part numbers for the same size pound pulley, depending upon the year of your lightning. What's going on with that? Could that have something to do with my issue? Take a look at the pictures and let me know your thoughts.





 

·
2.9 Whipple E85R A1 Transmission
Joined
·
11,013 Posts
You need to remove it, that was part of the stock lower pulley... It's 14mm hex reverse thread.
It's probably really tight. Try some heat and a large impact gun.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #88
Okay, I was able to easily get that front snout off. Thanks for the heads up on what was actually going on (I'm obviously a newb) but I'm still running into the same issue. So is it me, or is the pulley wrong?



 

·
Slevin
Joined
·
961 Posts
I've seen pullies listed for 99-00 and 01+
Possible that you got the wrong one.
Idk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #90
Interesting. I keep searching through the internet and can't find a difference between the years though, so IDK what's going on. Makes me wonder if I can put this on a lathe and just increase the ID to what I need. I've also discovered that replacement harmonic balancers are very hard to come by, so I'll keep a hold of this one.

Anyways, I had a spare several hours today, and decided to tear the engine completely down. I'm tired of looking at it in my shop and this project not moving faster.

Guess who forgot to check if all the fluids were out of it before spinning it upside down!?


I was amazed at how much condensation/water accumulated in this engine since it has sat in my heated garage ever since it was pulled. All the pistons came out, but 5 of the 8 had to be persuaded first due to rust build up.



The heads also showed a little damage.



However, the good news I found...


I have the 8 threads per spark plug heads. That means I don't have to do the inserts, right?

My crank looks good, and now I think this is ready to take to the machine shop and get it all cleaned up!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #91
Another question I have, is what is going on with my cam gears?




Weren't these supposed to be held on with a bolt? These look pressed on to me. While we're on the subject of cams, would it be worth it to change cams out at all while I have all of this apart? I'm wanting good low and mid range torque for pulling trailers and getting all 6300lbs of my truck out of the way. If they're a complete waste of money since I'm not racing like some of you, then I won't bother. I only ask because LMR has the cam and spring kit they claim adds good mid range torque and hp, which would be great for me.

 

·
11 second street truck
Joined
·
10,492 Posts
Some cams were press on. Some bolt on. Depends on the heads

99-00 have a smaller diameter hub. They won't fit later trucks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #93
Well I didn't know that at all. That gives me motivation to upgrade cams though, since you're supposed to change sprockets when you put new chains on, correct? I don't think any companies make aftermarket press on sprockets (at least Google hasn't shown any yet).

The reason I'm moderately persistent in these questions is that they will affect what I have done to the heads at the machine shop. If I'm going to upgrade cams, then I will order the valves, springs, retainers, and cams myself, disassemble the heads in my garage, and save the money of having the shop do all that work. I'll just have them check the heads out, put new guides and seats in, and go on. If I'm just going back with the stock stuff though, then I'll save my time and have the machine shop assemble the heads for me.

Basically I'm trying to maximize my budget here since the COVID-19 has convinced my company that we should work from home for a few weeks. That move allows me a little shop time while I review reports and such.

Okay, so then it looks like I've got an early diameter pulley, and I should be good to machine that opening out to what I need. I'll verify dimensions with what I can find on the internet, and proceed that direction.

So the only two things I really still need to know then are:
Would you trust a regular engine shop to remember the difference between a N/A 5.4L and a Lightning, so I don't get N/A pistons put in?
and
Since I have the 8 thread spark plug heads, I don't need to put steel inserts in, right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
All lightnings are windsor engines so they all have press on cam gears. If it were me i would just use the stock cams for what u are goin to b doing with ur truck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #95
Well, I don't disagree with that conclusion, except for this engine has (according to the odometer that was in the truck) almost 300,000 miles on it. I don't exactly feel comfortable putting new timing chains and tensioners on a brand new engine, and then reusing 300,000 mile cam sprockets. It just doesn't seem very smart to me. However, I could be way off, and someone could come on here and say that the sprockets don't wear at all, and I won't be doing any damage by reusing the sprockets, camshafts, or valve springs.

I honestly don't know. This is where I'm relying on your guy's expertise.
 

·
11 second street truck
Joined
·
10,492 Posts
All lightnings are windsor engines so they all have press on cam gears. If it were me i would just use the stock cams for what u are goin to b doing with ur truck.
Mine were not press on....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Maybe at somepoint in ur trucks life it had romeo cams installed? Im not sure but the book says all lightnings have a windsor 5.4 which is a press on cam gear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Post a pic of the lobes and close up pic of the teeth. But any aftermarket cam for a modular is goin to loose lowend torque unless its a custom grind from what i have found. I would def replace the valve springs no matter what.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #100 (Edited)
I spoke with a friend of a friend who currently works at Ford about this. His reply was this.

Most of our engines are designed for 150k miles anymore. It may have been more or less back in '03. I don't know. Whether the sprockets are good or not is a crapshoot. A person would need to really visually inspect them to see if they have worn out. But at the same time, I would expect the camshaft lobes to wear out way faster than the sprockets anyways, no matter what the life of the vehicle was like.
That was something I hadn't thought of at all. Even if the sprockets are good, I may not have the full lift or profile anymore on my camshafts. That certainly needs to be considered on an engine that's likely over twice the original design life.
 
81 - 100 of 117 Posts
Top