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Discussion Starter #1
Hello and thanks for reading. I've got a variety of questions and it seems like they can best be answered in this forum but if I've put this in the wrong place, mods accept my apology and please move.

I've just brought a wrecked 2003 HD that I'll be parting out (shameless plug) but I would like to put the supercharged motor in my 1998 F-150. First question, I have to swap entire motors because my 1998 is an NPI motor and the intake/supercharger setup will only bolt to PI heads, correct? I also can't put the PI heads on my NPI motor because the compression ratio will be too high due, correct?

The '03 HD motor has 290,000 original miles (that's not a typo), so it's fairly worn. I would think a simple rebuild would be in order. I'm not wanting to make crazy power on this build; likely just 400 - 425 hp and close to 500 ft-lbs at the flywheel when I'm done. However, all the rebuild kits I've found so far are good for around 800hp. Are there no stock rebuild kits I can use that will save me some money?

I've had to repair a spark plug that blew out on my N/A 5.4L already. It wasn't a hard fix, but I'd rather do it with the engine out of the truck than installed. Do the Lightnings/HD suffer from the same blow out issues, or did Ford use more threads on the supercharged motors?

Should I use the engine harness from the HD, or will the stock one in my 1998 F-150 work just fine?

Once I have engine all installed and harnesses hooked up, I'll need a basic tune to get the truck started. I'm not near any dyno's so that'll be a trip for me. However, I've read on here that some use "mail tunes". I always thought that you had to be on a real dyno because any of these mail tunes were not accurate. I'd hate to blow up a rebuilt engine because of crappy tune leaning out my engine. Can anyone shed some light on this for me?

Thanks again for reading and I'm looking forward to spending time on here.:rockon_ford
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hmmm... tough crowd?

Okay, so I made a few decisions since my original post and also crunch a few numbers. I really don't save any money by trying to do a simple rebuild kit vs just buying a whole new set of stuff from JDM like this
JDM Engine Rebuild Kit

So that's the long term route I will take. However, in the interm, I'd like to install the supercharger on my stock 98 engine if possible. I've heard of guys installing PI intakes on NPI heads, but I didn't know if there was more complications involved since the alternator (and I think water pump) are different for the lightning/HD engines.

Is it possible to install the supercharger/intercooler setup on my '98 NPI engine without much difficulty? This falls in line with my original question from above
First question, I have to swap entire motors because my 1998 is an NPI motor and the intake/supercharger setup will only bolt to PI heads, correct? I also can't put the PI heads on my NPI motor because the compression ratio will be too high due, correct?
 

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Believing Believer
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If you are doing a basic rebuild, all you should need are rings, bearings and gaskets. A hone should be good enough if there aren't any scarring on the walls. A lot of the time we want to buy parts ahead of time but in all reality, your machine shop can do that for you if you just drop the engine off there and tell them what you need.

Also, you can have your NPI heads gasket matched to pi intake gaskets and not run into any problems I believe. Have them ported and matched to pi intake gaskets. Throw in a set of cams too.
 

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Slevin
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I wouldn't bother throwing all of the supercharger components on a previously N/A NPI engine.
Sounds like it would just be asking for trouble. Do the entire motor swap, it will be less work.

If all you want is 400/500 at the flywheel, put a lightning upper pulley on the supercharger and you are done. That would increase the boost on the HD motor by 2#. Factory HD upper pulley is 3.12 and lightning is 2.93 IIRC.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
If you are doing a basic rebuild, all you should need are rings, bearings and gaskets. A hone should be good enough if there aren't any scarring on the walls. A lot of the time we want to buy parts ahead of time but in all reality, your machine shop can do that for you if you just drop the engine off there and tell them what you need.
Wow, I didn't know that you could just do ring and bearings. I thought anytime pistons were pulled that you should bore it 20 or 30 thousands to clean up the cylinder. If I can get away with a simple rebuild, then I'll be a happy camper!


I wouldn't bother throwing all of the supercharger components on a previously N/A NPI engine.
Sounds like it would just be asking for trouble. Do the entire motor swap, it will be less work.

If all you want is 400/500 at the flywheel, put a lightning upper pulley on the supercharger and you are done. That would increase the boost on the HD motor by 2#. Factory HD upper pulley is 3.12 and lightning is 2.93 IIRC.
Well if I'm able to get away with just rings, bearings and gaskets on the existing HD motor, a full swap is exactly what I'm going to do!

I thought the L's made 380/450 from the factory. Where does the additional hp/tq come from? Putting a factory L pulley was on my list of things to do, but I didn't know if there were any other easy mods to grab more power.

Thanks for the responses guys. I really do appreciate it!
 

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Slevin
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I thought the L's made 380/450 from the factory. Where does the additional hp/tq come from? Putting a factory L pulley was on my list of things to do, but I did know if there were any other easy mods to grab more power.

Thanks for the responses guys. I really do appreciate it!

To swap this, you will need a tune. That will likely put you over the 400/500 flywheel mark.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Fantastic! This news keeps getting better and better.

Next set of questions: Do the L/HD's have specific rings and/or bearings, or are they the same as a N/A 5.4L? I have a trusted machine shop not too far from me, but the owner/operator has extremely limited experience with modular motors. I'd like to take as many variables out as possible when he does his portion of the work.

The current fuel pump in the HD has 290,000 miles on it. I don't want to put such a tired fuel pump setup into my truck when I swap, but I also don't want to switch to the dual Walbro 255 pumps due to the issues that some people report, and it just being overkill for my goals/needs. Does anyone make a simple stock replacement? I'm having trouble finding anything on the internet.

When I perform the swap, do I need to use the HD engine harness, or will my 98 harness work? I know I have to keep my computer since I'm keeping the 4R70W, but I didn't know what I should do about the engine harness.
 

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Slevin
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Fantastic! This news keeps getting better and better.

Next set of questions: Do the L/HD's have specific rings and/or bearings, or are they the same as a N/A 5.4L? I have a trusted machine shop not too far from me, but the owner/operator has extremely limited experience with modular motors. I'd like to take as many variables out as possible when he does his portion of the work.

The current fuel pump in the HD has 290,000 miles on it. I don't want to put such a tired fuel pump setup into my truck when I swap, but I also don't want to switch to the dual Walbro 255 pumps due to the issues that some people report, and it just being overkill for my goals/needs. Does anyone make a simple stock replacement? I'm having trouble finding anything on the internet.

When I perform the swap, do I need to use the HD engine harness, or will my 98 harness work? I know I have to keep my computer since I'm keeping the 4R70W, but I didn't know what I should do about the engine harness.
I can't say for sure since I haven't dug into my motor yet but motors built with boost in mind usually will have at least rings that are gapped differently.
I think you should give a tuner/JDM/JLP a call.

What issues have you read people are having with dual 255s? I've only head that you shouldn't run the tank less than 1/4 full since they run hotter.

Not sure on the harness, I will have to leave that to those who have had more experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #9

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I FOUND HOW TO SECTION TO BE CORRECT

The issues I've been told about are detailed in the Lightning and HD Modding 101 thread in the "How To" section of this forum.
http://www.lightningrodder.com/forum/37-gen-2-harley-how-tos/353385-lightning-hd-modding-101-superchargers.html

The post was written last September and no one seems to have contested his statements. Combined with how well the post(s) were written, I took it as fact.


How To section is one of the best written forum section bar-none also our parts # number secttion. :smt023
 

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Slevin
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The issues I've been told about are detailed in the Lightning and HD Modding 101 thread in the "How To" section of this forum.
http://www.lightningrodder.com/forum/37-gen-2-harley-how-tos/353385-lightning-hd-modding-101-superchargers.html

The post was written last September and no one seems to have contested his statements. Combined with how well the post(s) were written, I took it as fact.
Tbone has had so many lightnings/HDs that his word is pretty much fact.

Tim Skelton as well, if you can get to his website on the internet archive
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Okay, so I'm still working on this and making progress! I've since been able to sell enough parts off the '03 HD to break even on the entire sale, gas money included. I still have the transmission, driveshaft, and a majority of the metal portion of the truck left to still bring in a few more dollars, which is awesome. I can now safely say that I acquired a supercharged 5.4L for free!

I called the guys at JDM Engineering, who are awesome to talk to btw, and explained to them what I've got going on. For the rings and bearings, they said that all 5.4L's came from the factory with the same stuff, but for almost the same amount of money, they've got rings and bearings that are more suitable to these engines so I'll likely go that route. For fuel pumps, most people have discontinued the stock replacements, but they were still able to direct me to an online retailer that still sold them! https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/MC/5292-07005865.html That's a link to the whole assembly that I can purchase that'll save me money over the 255 Walbro's. Plus, I won't have to deal with any heat or amperage issues by keeping the stock sized pumps. I'll swap the plastic Y out for a brass one and be good to go!

I've also located another machine shop that has experience with 5.4L's so this is another plus for me. I'm thinking that I'll swap harnesses, just so that things go back together easier, and so I can maybe package/hide wires a little nicer than the factory.

Next step is likely to start pulling the engine and harness out of the HD!
 

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Slevin
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Good job on getting your costs covered so far.

In a month or two I would have my stock fuel pumps (85k miles) coming off. Cover shipping and throw in $10 for beer and I will send them to you.
Edit: looks like you are wanting the entire assembly, not just the pumps.

Find the cleaning up the engine bay thread to assist with tucking/hiding wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Good job on getting your costs covered so far.

In a month or two I would have my stock fuel pumps (85k miles) coming off. Cover shipping and throw in $10 for beer and I will send them to you.
Edit: looks like you are wanting the entire assembly, not just the pumps.

Find the cleaning up the engine bay thread to assist with tucking/hiding wires.
Thanks! It's nice knowing that I don't have anything besides several hours of my time wrapped up in this project... yet.

The only reason I'm buying the whole assembly is because no one sells just the pumps anymore. I'll absolutely take your stock pumps off your hands for you! More money saved and more beer for you! :cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well I've had a few small delays due to life. You guys know how that goes, but I'm back to focusing on this, and slowly getting things in order. I was able to remove everything down to the intake manifold yesterday. Honestly, I'm amazed that the truck was able to breath at all. The intercooler was almost completely plugged off with oil, dirt and debris.

image url

The 90° fitting at the bottom of the intake had rotted off years ago, but the hole had plugged itself with dirt and debris, so there was a small pool of oil in the bottom of the intake.

pc screenshot


From reading on here, I've learned that I should plug that bottom hole with a brass plug. I'm also planning on deleting the PCV system and switching to a catch can setup, as well as deleting the EGR system. We don't have emissions testing here in Kansas so I plan on removing all that crap and avoiding these issues in the future.
 

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Makes the spark plugs easier to change.
 

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You can use the engine harness from either. I used the harness from my expedition because I couldn't find a pinout diagram for the pcm connectors on both to make sure the wires are on the same pins at the pcm for the lightning harness. All I had to do was extend a couple wires which was easy since I was already rewrapping them and putting tech flex over them. I was able to just reroute the wires in the harness and not have to cut and extend. A bit tedious bit no cut wires and it looks killer wrapped in tech flex with heat shrink sealing the connector ends.
 
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