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· Even Then I Was Old Skool!
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
There are more than a handful of us now and I thought we could get a thread going where we can share information about our individual setups, about tensioners, belts, idlers, bridges and whatever. Might be a good idea to lead it off with a poll? But here's what I'm thinking:

My Setup:

Cogs: DMR (Stock Size Upper - 6# Lower)
Tensioner: Reichard Racing Manual Adjust
Idlers: Chickenwings Lipped
Idler Bridge: Magnum Powers
Belt: Gates 1760-8MGT-30 GT2 PowerGrip

Comments: I've had issues with alignment and wearing the edge off the belt so I've been fiddling with washers and spacing to try and keep the belt centered on the tensioner and following PS lipped idler. I guess it cost me a belt a couple days ago. I'm probably going to revert to the Ford Bridge since I think it might help the situation. With the MP Bridge and 3 idlers, you have to be careful with the belt slapping itself under the supercharger cog because they come so close. In talking to Gary this past weekend, he mentioned something about a Kevlar Reinforced belt and I do know that Gates Racing does make a Kevlar Cog belt, but there's no chart available for comparison so I wrote to Gates Racing hope to get an answer. Gates claims that their Kevlar belts are 300X stronger than OEM belts. And there are other companies making Kevlar belts as well.







Typically, our 6# Cog setups use a 69.29" long belt that is 30mm wide, and has a 8mm Pitch and 220 teeth. It would be nice to know what vehicle that belt was originally spec'd for. These belts are basically timing belts and were adapted for our cog sets when DMR first introduced them. Typically you need to input your car make, engine, year, and model to get any info so we can't do that without determining what the belt was used for.
 

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Great Idea

My Setup:

Cogs: DMR 27t upper 4 lower going 6
Tensioner: Stock
Idlers: Chickenwings Lipped
Idler Bridge: Stock was using the metco aux bracket
Belt: Gates 1760-8MGT-30 GT2 PowerGrip
 

· Wile E. Coyote, Super Genius!
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11,643 Posts
Mine as current

30 tooth upper from RPM Outlet.
80 tooth lower from Mportetr.
RPM outlet provided idlers.
32 tooth tensioner from Mportetr.
Stock tensioner.
Stock idler bridge, not using any Aux Idler Bracket.
Belt is not marked for brand. 16968 212 tooth.

Basically a two pound lower, 30 tooth upper. Mine is a mix and match set of stuff I bought from Mportetr and RPM Outlet. Have not had any trouble with the belt wearing on the edges, and yes mine rides the forward side of the tensioner. I do have the RPM six pound lower, just probably not going to use it as I am not after the N th degree of performance, and don't want to mess around with data-logging and tuning.

Yes I'll buy one of those blue belts if we can find some way of cross referencing sizes.

There is a chart here where we can get a tooth count using the number on your belt. For instance the 1760 shown above me is a 220 tooth.

http://shop.polybelt.com/8m-30-30mm-Wide-Belts-Rubber_c64.htm
 

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Sitting in a box waiting to be installed:

MP Blower Case

Cogs: RPM (Motoblue)
Tensioner: Stock
Idlers: RPM (Motoblue)
Idler Bridge: Stock
Aux Idler Bracket: RPM (Motoblue)
Belt: Gates Powergrip GT3 1760-8MGT-30 (Included in RPM Cog set)
 

· 10 SECOND CLUB!
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Johnny ported MP

Cogs: RPM (Motoblue)
Tensioner: Stock
Idlers: RPM (Motoblue)
Idler Bridge: Stock
Aux Idler Bracket: RPM (Motoblue)
Belt: Gates Powergrip GT3 1760-8MGT-30 (Included in RPM Cog set)
 

· Even Then I Was Old Skool!
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10,415 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just for the record here's the specs on the typical belts used on our Eaton/MP Cog setups:

Gates 1760-8MGT-30 GT 2 PowerGrip

This is a 8mm tooth pitch, 30mm wide, 220 tooth, 69.29" Belt Length/Circumference

Gates 1800-8MGT-30 GT 2 PowerGrip

This is a 8mm tooth pitch, 30mm wide, 225 tooth, 70.87" Belt
Length/Circumference

I believe Jeff [207] is running the longer 1800 belt on his HD as he felt the length might put less stress on the crank. Jeff started out with a Basic DMR Cog setup, I'm pretty sure he has a RRR Thumper Tensioner now which is has some kind of tension level-adjust. Jeff correct me if I'm wrong here.

Here's a picture of the Magnum Powers and Thump Racing RRR Tensioners:



The following picture shows a Reichard Racing Manual Adjust Tensioner on a Magnum Powers Idler Bridge:

 

· Cogswell Cogs
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My Setup:

Cogs: DMR - "L" upper / 6# lower
Tensioner: Thump RRR
Idlers: DMR
Idler Bridge: Magnum Powers
Belt: Gates 1800-8MGT-30 GT2 PowerGrip

Mike, I received your message hours late, you were probably at V's by then. I was setting up for the party.
That said, I wished you jumped off exit 6 and stopped by. I have a brand new 1760 in stock as a spare. I probably won't use it anyway because I now run the 1800. We could have installed it pretty quick.

Is the belt wearing on the inside towards the engine bay? When mine was rubbing it was the OEM tensioner which I guess was out of whack. I put on the Thump RRR and the problem disappeared... no shims or washers were / are used.

**edit** Yeah Mike, the primary reason I went to the 1800 was less pressure on the crank pulley and possibly the belt will have less heat build up with the lesser tension.
 

· Even Then I Was Old Skool!
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Mike, I received your message hours late, you were probably at V's by then. I was setting up for the party.
That said, I wished you jumped off exit 6 and stopped by. I have a brand new 1760 in stock as a spare. I probably won't use it anyway because I now run the 1800. We could have installed it pretty quick.

Is the belt wearing on the inside towards the engine bay? When mine was rubbing it was the OEM tensioner which I guess was out of whack. I put on the Thump RRR and the problem disappeared... no shims or washers were / are used.
:smt102
I figured you were getting set for your party LOL. No harm no foul. Almost tempted to pick up an 1800 then drive down to your house so we could see side by side _WHY_ my belt isn't tracking perfectly. Here's a slightly older picture but you can see the belt is shifted back on the Tensioner Cog. Notice the belt powder on the MP bridge from being scraped, and also note the track pattern on the lipped idler. Something isn't aligned perfectly.
 

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In the box waiting for the snow to fly...and more research, trial and error lol.

SUPERCHARGER: MP ported with fresh coated rotor pack
Upper: RPM
Idler: RPM
Tensioner: Stock
Bridge: magnum powers/stock
Lower: 6lb/10lb
Belt: Gates Powergrip GT3 1760-8MGT-30 (Included in RPM Cog set)
 

· Wile E. Coyote, Super Genius!
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I so WANT one of those Reichard tensioners. But they're as rare as hens teeth. I tried an MP, but it was so close to the fan, I could not get a breaker bar on it to put the belt on. So I sold it.
 

· Even Then I Was Old Skool!
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
If anyone has their parts handy, can you show me the bolt, bearing (if possible), washers or whatever of your tensioner cog? Just want to see what everyone is using. Mine came with a huge button-type bolt. I'm concerned that I'm eating bearings because I'm improvising on holding the bearing (and the tensioner cog) in place with washers. So show me pictures of your tensioner assembly... not the bridge or the idlers... just the tensioner for now.

Interesting thing, the guy at ATMUS Bearing told me that I should Loctite the bearing in place because its a sort of press fit. Something about Loctite Bearing Retainer, might be in a Green bottle? Anybody ever Loctite a bearing in an idler? I'm using a Timken bearing... I'll post the part number when I get home.

Mike
 

· AYHIN
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Mike, I would suggest putting a washer between the bearing and the tensioner half the thickness of the gap between your belt and the front edge of the tensioner to center the belt on the tensioner pulley.

Depending on blower, tensioner pulley etc. I have had to do that on mine to align the pulley with my Thump Racing tensioner you showed in your picture. I have had no issues doing it. If you already have one there then maybe a custom spacer.
 

· White Lightning!
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Hey Mike,

Not sure if what I have to add matters or not but I can share my experience with the RPM cogs if that will help.

My set up consists of an 02' L running a ported Eaton and the OEM bridge. The RPM kit installed very easily but the tensioner arm needed a bit taken off the edge to fit the inside of the tensioner pulley provided by RPM.

After a few hundred miles had been put on the system, the cog belt shredded because it was riding the front edge. The end result is that all of the idler pulleys had to be installed with the snap rings (holding the bearings in) facing out or towards the front of the truck. This gave a little more room for the belt to travel so it could track with the other pulleys.

Frank split the cost of a new belt with me and its been fine ever since. I realize that its different than what you're running but hopefully it'll give you something to go off of.
 

· Even Then I Was Old Skool!
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Mike, I would suggest putting a washer between the bearing and the tensioner half the thickness of the gap between your belt and the front edge of the tensioner to center the belt on the tensioner pulley.

Depending on blower, tensioner pulley etc. I have had to do that on mine to align the pulley with my Thump Racing tensioner you showed in your picture. I have had no issues doing it. If you already have one there then maybe a custom spacer.
I've tried that, difficult finding a washer that spans the bearing shoulder, fits snugly around the retaining bolt, and fills the height. Custom might work. Brett is helping me out, sending me one of his tensioner cogs to try out. I'm ordering a new belt, and for kicks and giggles I'm going to use the Ford bridge I just polished. If I still have issues, I may go back to the Ford tensioner as well.

Mike
 

· Even Then I Was Old Skool!
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hey Mike,

Not sure if what I have to add matters or not but I can share my experience with the RPM cogs if that will help.

My set up consists of an 02' L running a ported Eaton and the OEM bridge. The RPM kit installed very easily but the tensioner arm needed a bit taken off the edge to fit the inside of the tensioner pulley provided by RPM.

After a few hundred miles had been put on the system, the cog belt shredded because it was riding the front edge. The end result is that all of the idler pulleys had to be installed with the snap rings (holding the bearings in) facing out or towards the front of the truck. This gave a little more room for the belt to travel so it could track with the other pulleys.

Frank split the cost of a new belt with me and its been fine ever since. I realize that its different than what you're running but hopefully it'll give you something to go off of.
Interesting because I've thought about that myself. I bought a new bearing today, but I'm waiting on a belt. I'm going to try reverting back to the Ford bridge, simplify the equation a bit. Brett's helping out with a loaner.

Seeing as more and more of us are running cogs, I had the thread moved to the How-To section where all this information will be much easier to find. I think it'll be a good catch-all for tips on installing and running cogs. So thanks to Jim Ienner for helping us out and moving the thread.

Mike
 

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Mike,I haven't installed mine yet mainly do to waiting for Matt(Painless Autoworks)to finish figuring out how to properly fix the design flaw in the Caged Pulley Hub he made for me and a few other guys awhile back.Other than that,I've got:

MAGNUM POWERS BLOWER
RPM COG SET
MAGNUM POWERS IDLER BRIDGE
CHICKENWINGS LIPPED IDLERS
MAGNUM POWERS TENSIONER

I'm definitely gonna keep an eye on this post and see if you guys hopefully come up with a solution by the time it get my cog set ready to go.
 

· Even Then I Was Old Skool!
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Gary [BlueLightning] from PA told me about the Kevlar belt, so I asked Gary to do a little research on it and it turns out RPM Outlet offers a Kevlar cog belt for $149.95. No part number but they claim their cog setup includes a Kevlar belt. So you rpm guys, check your belt for brand and part number.

Gates Racing rep got back to me today, said that they don't make a Gates Racing belt in our size. He did give me a link and said if I wanted something like that I'd have to order a minimum of 12. I'll follow up the link and let everyone know what the scoop is.

Gary also noted that he's running a Gates GT3 1760 series belt not a GT2. I tried going to Gates web site but there is no explanation of the differences between the GT2 and GT3, but the GT3 is not Kevlar stranded.
 

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The only other problem I have is I don't really want to run a 6# lower cog,but unless a miracle happens,I don't think I'll have any choice when it comes time to install my set-up.
Why dont you want a 6 lower?
 
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