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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys first time posting on this topic need help with my audio running pioneer app radio and two alpine type S 10 in a thunderform box and a alpine 4.100 4 channel amp with 4 alpine type Rs 100 rms and for bass alpine Mrx 1.100 mono amp bass will start clipping if turned anything passed is say one 1/8 on the bass knob if I turn it down it's fine. 2nd problem when playing loud or sometimes mid vocal amp will cut out and just leave subs playing goes into protective mode and I have to restart the truck and plays fine again and will potentially cut out if turned up high using 4 gauge wire with a t distribution block and both have less than 3ft ground and proper ground audio shop said it was ground re grounded vocal amp and worked maybe a day and cut out at high volume
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds like a voltage drop. What’s the voltage when the thing is hitting pretty hard? Test it at the amp.
You may need to add a cap to the system
That makes sense at first the shop checked voltage and said it was low like at 12 something and would range to 11 and believed it to be my alternator purchased new ones to have the exact same voltage so threw in the old one figured If it isn't broken don't fix it . Also ran a pdx before 4.100 that sounded better had issues as well for some reason that one worked fine until one day decided it had enough so I bought the older alpine 4.100 stackable unit worked great and then randomly started doing that again bought another used pdx and had the same problem as the first initial one which was he pdx that I so loved long story short what should my voltage be at the amp ??
 

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Voltage at idle should be at least 13.5v with no accessories on.
Load it up at idle - AC/Blower, headlights, fans and your stereo system. Rev to 2500rpms you should be around 13.2v range. If not, you may need to do the big 3 upgrade and also purchase a 200amp alternator. I believe The L has 140amp stock alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Voltage at idle should be at least 13.5v with no accessories on.
Load it up at idle - AC/Blower, headlights, fans and your stereo system. Rev to 2500rpms you should be around 13.2v range. If not, you may need to do the big 3 upgrade and also purchase a 200amp alternator. I believe The L has 140amp stock alternator.
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Thanks for the input i was doing some reading and sound like a capacitor should be in the picture due to lights dimming when at high volume and voltage drop as you mentioned any brand you have in mind sounds like for what I'm running a 1.5 farad should be enough any brand in particular currently looking at a T- spec. stinger only does higher farad 0 gauge wiring . Yea the double din stereo , mark viii fan and 3 gauges and two amps are probably taxing my electrical pretty bad
 

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Pilsung
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Bummer on Stinger, I like there stuff.
Hmm not sure on a brand. Just check reviews on Amazon or like onlinecarstereo.com
Mark 5 fans are wicked but draw a ton.
Might be worth upgrading your electrical sys with your electrical additions.
Don’t stop the current
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Bummer on Stinger, I like there stuff.
Hmm not sure on a brand. Just check reviews on Amazon or like onlinecarstereo.com
Mark 5 fans are wicked but draw a ton.
Might be worth upgrading your electrical sys with your electrical additions.
Don’t stop the current
Yes they do run insane amps using a Ron Francis A-R88 controller that's pretty annoying I must say turns on the AC compresser and is constantly turning on for 30 seconds and the off on and off on and off ive considered just running it on full time instead of back and forth but kept the truck cool in 114 degree weather in Vegas so must be working
 

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Weird. I ran 2 15 inch kicker cvx subs with a 1500watt(iirc) amp from sony with 0 gauge wiring and an optima yellow top. Never had any issues with lights dimming or amp cutting out, even with poor airflow to the amp.

It must be the fan that's draining the majority of the power. Time for a big 3 upgrade and then go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Weird. I ran 2 15 inch kicker cvx subs with a 1500watt(iirc) amp from sony with 0 gauge wiring and an optima yellow top. Never had any issues with lights dimming or amp cutting out, even with poor airflow to the amp.

It must be the fan that's draining the majority of the power. Time for a big 3 upgrade and then go from there.
The big 3 is alternator wiring and ground right ?? I'm going to try a 1.5 farad capacitor first and then go from there they are like 50 bucks on amazon wanted to go a stinger but they only make bigger ones
 

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The big 3 is alternator wiring and ground right ?? I'm going to try a 1.5 farad capacitor first and then go from there they are like 50 bucks on amazon wanted to go a stinger but they only make bigger ones
Yes, 1 cable run to the alternator, another from the negative terminal on the battery to the chassis, and another ground from the chassis to the engine block.

As far as capacitors go, ive never had the need to run one even in my other vehicle that had a vocals amp, bass amp, and an efan, so I wouldn't be able to give you any info on that besides just looking at the reviews on Amazon or sonicelectronix etc
 

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The big 3 is alternator wiring and ground right ?? I'm going to try a 1.5 farad capacitor first and then go from there they are like 50 bucks on amazon wanted to go a stinger but they only make bigger ones
Yes, 1 cable run to the alternator, another from the negative terminal on the battery to the chassis, and another ground from the chassis to the engine block.

As far as capacitors go, ive never had the need to run one even in my other vehicle that had a vocals amp, bass amp, and an efan, so I wouldn't be able to give you any info on that besides just looking at the reviews on Amazon or sonicelectronix etc
Thanks guys I'll start at the capacitor and work my way down
 

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Your issue is the 4ga and distribution block. Running 2 big amps you should have either 2ga or better yet 0ga. Then from the distribution block you can run 4ga to each amp. Think of your wires as hoses. If your running smaller wire the current isn't getting to the amps sufficiently. A capacitor is just going to bandaid the issue not fix it. A cap is designed to charge and discharge quickly. If you don't have the proper voltage it's going to hurt more then help.
 

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Agreed /\ forgot to mention I have always ran welding cable lol
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Your issue is the 4ga and distribution block. Running 2 big amps you should have either 2ga or better yet 0ga. Then from the distribution block you can run 4ga to each amp. Think of your wires as hoses. If your running smaller wire the current isn't getting to the amps sufficiently. A capacitor is just going to bandaid the issue not fix it. A cap is designed to charge and discharge quickly. If you don't have the proper voltage it's going to hurt more then help.
Agreed /\ forgot to mention I have always ran welding cable lol
So 0 gauge from the battery to the distribution block and then 4 gauge to the vocal amp and bass amp and then a capacitor and then move forward to the big 3 if problem is not resolved by the way I really appreciate you're guys advise this thing drives me crazy and I'd figure its
proably not the best for my starter when I pop it in neutral turn it off and on while rolling at low speeds or stop lights ?????
 

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0ga from battery to distribution then one 4ga to mid and high amp and one 4ga going to sub amp. If you absolutely have to ad a cap then I would stick on the 4ga wire going to the sub amp. I would do the big 3 before the cap though.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Picked up some 0/1 gauge wire to start on the big 3 this weekend shop wanted 300 dlls to do it I'd figure I'd do it seems if anything the hardest point to access would be the positive terminal on the alternator
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey guys just a update tore the truck apart today removed seats to make easier access to amps as they go one under each seat pulled the ground on the alpine bass amp and found that the alpine 4.100 vocal amp still cuts out under high volume leading me to believe not a power consumption issue but more a bad connection on the speaker checked jack Inputs in stereo seem to be fine as well un did each door speaker found one to be slightly loose tightened it still having the same issues any thought would be greatly appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update checked everything two wires were pinched to the rear speakers and two of the alpine type R rear speakers had burned coils replaced through warranty also ordered the new R series alpine 10 @4 0hms going to try one fitment and see if I need to make a spacer for it to fit in the box will update in about a week or so
 
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