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Discussion Starter #1
Well... I had just got my truck running right again after a bad DPFE sensor. Tonight was nice and cold and the truck was running great, so I decided to see how good it was running. I did a little pull all the way to the 3-4 shift and hello broken rod... Coasted the rest of the way home luckily barely running and zero oil pressure with oil pressure light flashing. No oil dripping right away, I push the truck into the garage, it sits for a few minutes and three oil drips show up. I investigate and find what seems to be a crack in the block next to the starter... As I'm investigating I notice smoke coming out from my cold air intake, so I pop off the intake elbow, see oil on the throttle body, and open up the throttle blade and oil pours out with a few metal shavings. Somehow I'm assuming the intake elbow sucked up oil from the valve covers. That's as deep as I looked into the damage. I just put on an oil catch can a week ago, I checked it after a day of driving and it had already filled up a 1/3rd of the way somehow... maybe this was a sign? Then today after it broke a rod, I checked the catch can again and its full with coolant/whiteish fluid sitting at the bottom. So something obviously wrong.

I'm pretty bummed out now since this was my dream vehicle and it only has 22k miles and its nearly flawless condition wise. First owner did drag race the truck, 3000rpm stall, deep trans pan, intercooler upgrade, throttle body, ported plenum, 6# lower I believe (dynoed 14.8lbs max), catless exhaust and more little things. Second owner used it as a show truck mainly. The truck made 416rwhp and 529rwtq so I guess that power and boost amount was kind of pushing it, especially being raced previously. So now the plan is to save money for a built bottom end. Any suggestions? Also any ideas of why the rod broke other than the rpm change from the 3-4 shift or just the power level/previous abuse?

Wish me luck
 

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11 second street truck
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Without knowing the state of the tune it's tough to say. Stock maf? If so, that's why.
 

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Number of reasons, bad gas, caused detonation, tune could be off, over rev rpm, with 22K on the clock and 416 rwhp the short block should be able to handle that plus sum.

Sucks that it happened, but now you have some options....build it stronger, 4V swap...or just a good old stocker.

best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I also managed to get it on video... Putting an oil catch can on wouldn't cause this right? After two days of driving the thing was 1/3 of the way full... Well at least the truck went out in style. After reviewing the footage it looks like that was the fastest it has ever accelerated so it was making good power. Rip

 

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11 second street truck
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No your catchcan wouldn't cause that. Was the maf stock?
 

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11 second street truck
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I believe it was stock
Then I'll bet dollars to pesos that's the issue.

That much boost and cold air created a condition where you exceeded the limits of the maf. The ECU reverted to failed maf timing tables and boom goes your engine.

Anything more than a 4lb lower should have a bigger maf
 

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If it happened right after the 3-4 shift it cld have been the load from the trq convertor locking up. Thats why everyone says to turn overdrive off when ur gona play. Its to much of a shock on the rotaing assembly. And of course the weak link(rods) lets go. Most good tunes i believe have this locked out just incase and wont let it shift into O/D unless the load is below a certain %. Thats how mine is anyway. Good luck sry for ur loss.
 

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I also managed to get it on video... Putting an oil catch can on wouldn't cause this right? After two days of driving the thing was 1/3 of the way full... Well at least the truck went out in style. After reviewing the footage it looks like that was the fastest it has ever accelerated so it was making good power. Rip

Oof, that shift into overdrive wasn't good. She was definitely a runner, the MAF along with turning overdrive off would've probably prevented it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So, last Saturday I found a 2002 Harley truck at a nearby Pull-a-Part with the engine still inside. The truck was sitting in the scrap yard for close to two months and what was left of the truck looked to be in decent shape. I went ahead and pulled the long block, minus the blower and parts that go with that have already been taken. The engine didn't have any signs of leaking or external damage and it turned over very nicely. I got the engine for $250 so my plan is to: A.) Refresh this scrap engine, tear down and inspect everything for wear, replace rings, bearings, and put it back together and drive the truck with O/D off and with new MAF for this summer and do a complete rebuild/ buy a pre-built short block next winter and hope these rods hold up for a few months. B.) Tear down this engine and build the bottom end with forged internals and possible cams C.) Or just save and buy a pre-built short block from JDM or similar now.

I will have to tear down the scrap engine and see what will need to be done. Obviously I didn't plan for the truck to throw a rod so whatever option is cheapest/ quickest would be preferable for me since I planned on enjoying the truck with the upcoming nice weather this year and car show season, plus I don't have money saved for an engine build currently. Any suggestions as to what would probably be the best idea? If I can refresh the scrap engine and use it for this year and then when winter comes along do the job right and get the engine built after saving money that would be great.
 
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