Turbo 4v Navigator engine harness? - Lightning Forum | LightningRodder.com
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-04-2019, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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Turbo 4v Navigator engine harness?

First off I’m new to the forum and trying to figure the posting thing out, think I’m in the right section? I’m finishing up my turbo 4v build and i see I’m definitely not the only turbo 4v here. I’m currently working on the engine harness, Are you guys running the lightning harness or the Navi harness. I have both. I’ve got some schematics from all data on both, that I haven’t gone over yet but if someone has been there done that it may make things a lot easier, also if it looks like the Navi harness is going to work I was thinking about using the dpfm wires to work the BAP sensor, move a couple pins and change a connector. any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 12:19 AM
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welcome to the forum

the wiring on the navigator and lightning harnesses are basically identical excluding the few extras the lightning has.

use which ever harness is easier for you thats assuming your not using the hi/low fuel pump output and intercooler pump

you don't need to keep the sc bypass or anything else your not using simply remove it, everything can be disabled in the tune no problem

here is a pin out of the lightning/harley ecu (scroll on down to eec-v its the last column on the right)
it should match what alldata tells you but has more details as to the input or output and polarity of each pin on the far left
ECU Pinouts / EFIDynoTuning

what are your goals with the truck?
here is an injector size reference chart thats pretty helpful as well
Pre Tune Information / EFIDynoTuning
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 07:12 AM
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So I'm doing a 4V swap with a GT500 top end, so I got a GT500 engine harness, but it turned out to be too bulky for what I wanted since there was more unused connectors and crap from the newer cars that I didn't need. What I ended up doing was just taking my 2v harness, de-looming it entirely, then moving wires and connectors around to where I needed them, split out the coils & injectors from 1 run to 2 runs for the 4v, and resleeved it all. Took a little work, but nothing crazy, and ended up way cleaner in the end.

The navi harness is probably a good compromise since it's similar setup and routing to the 2v, and you'd only have to address a couple things like IAT2 not being there. It's probably less work than modifying your 2v harness.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys that pinout helps, I hope to work on the harness this weekend, I’ll keep posting as it comes together!
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Oh and as far as goals go I’m looking for 800 hp on pump gas, this will be a true street truck, air condition and all, I’d like to eventually go past 1000 on race fuel, like to just get it running right now. As far as injectors go I think I’m gonna go with ID 1050s,
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 05:10 PM
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cool sounds fun

no need for iat2 it can be disabled too. Best to just wire up to the iat sensor built in to the slot style maf sensors like the pmas hpx-e maf's which i'd assume you'd be using to support that power
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by decipha View Post
cool sounds fun

no need for iat2 it can be disabled too. Best to just wire up to the iat sensor built in to the slot style maf sensors like the pmas hpx-e maf's which i'd assume you'd be using to support that power
So you recommend not having a way to log charge temps at all?

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 05:50 PM
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So you recommend not having a way to log charge temps at all?
Any boosted car that was na likely doesnt have the ability. Its nice but not a necessity

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
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Any boosted car that was na likely doesnt have the ability. Its nice but not a necessity
Good point. I was also assuming stock style A/W, and more importantly MAF pre-turbo. A/A and a post-turbo MAF would actually be a good spot to get IAT2

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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I was thinkinking about using the 2 wires in the Navi harness that are used for the intake runner block off, sorry don’t really know what it’s called, but using those wires for iat2. and using the wires for dpfm for the BAP sensor, just Repin at the connector at the firewall, I am definately deleting egr, but would like to make everything else work,I’m sure it will be easier to tune with iat2 in place. As far as MAF haven’t got one yet but yes it will be aftermarket, I’m sure the stock one would peg. SCT 3000 I think?
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 08:11 PM
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no an sct 3000 is too large of a bore unless you plan on going all 4" charge piping? Your best and really only option is the sct5000 slot maf which is the same thing as the pmas hpx-e. PMAS is cheaper though if im not mistaken.

an iat2 makes absolutely no difference tuning wise and its kinda pointless to have two iat sensors since they both will read the same

i think your referring to the imrc - intake manifold runner control valve.

why do you need a bap sensor?
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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All good to know, on the BAP just figured it had it to begin with couldn’t hurt to wire it up and make it functional Even if it was just to be turned off in the tune. Just trying to not have to go back in this harness. I’ve heard some run the BAP most don’t, figured I’d let the tuner decide. Which brings me to another question, I live near Bristol Tn anyone close to me that’s a good tuner?
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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Also I’m running 3.5 in charge piping, I was thinking sct 3000 was 90 mm? Running 90 mm TB as well, am I missing something?
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
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no an sct 3000 is too large of a bore unless you plan on going all 4" charge piping? Your best and really only option is the sct5000 slot maf which is the same thing as the pmas hpx-e. PMAS is cheaper though if im not mistaken.

an iat2 makes absolutely no difference tuning wise and its kinda pointless to have two iat sensors since they both will read the same

i think your referring to the imrc - intake manifold runner control valve.

why do you need a bap sensor?
It can make a huge difference when charge temps get high and timing automatically get pulled... and how would charge temps read the same as ambient?!

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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 05:32 AM
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Is the confusion in conversation on 2 IAT sensors coming into play that this is turbo and it all depends where the MAF is at (assuming you're using a slot MAF with integrated IAT sensor). If you're putting the MAF pre-turbo for draw-thru, sure it's beneficial to still have IAT1 and IAT2, since you'll see pre-turbo and post-turbo temps. If you're putting the MAF post-turbo for blow-thru, then I can see where it may not make a difference having IAT1 and IAT2. Unless the MAF is before the IC and the IAT2 sensor is after the IC, then you can monitor how well the IC is doing.


As for N/A not being able to have IAT2 logging when doing conversions, you still can, most just re-wire the IAT1 wires for IAT2, so you see the actual charge temps. You can't see the inlet temps then, but it's really not a big deal.


As for which MAF, lots also use the VMP 3500 (i think it's 3500). Better resolution than the BA5000 but still 4 digit rwhp capable. But tube size all comes into play as well. Most s/c guys are sticking MAFs in 5" or 6" tubes, so the air flow is slower since the added diameter can move more. If you're turbo and have smaller charge pipes with a MAF in something 3" or 4", you may need a higher range MAF since the velocity of the air thru the tube is faster to move the same amount of air as the bigger tube.


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