Crank no start - Lightning Forum | LightningRodder.com
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-12-2017, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 3
 
Crank no start

Hey everyone long time lightning owner new you the forum. I'm the original owner of am 04 lighting and I've got a cranking no start issue.

A little background.The last time it was driven was over a year ago when it ran out of gas. A few gallons was put in to get home. It then sat for a few months before I attempted to start it again which at the time it would crank but not start. Life got in the way and I wasn't able to work on it but I'm getting back to it.

Things I've done:
1. Replaced fuel filter as it was long overdue anyway. No change.
2. Verified spark using a spark plug test light
3. Verified injectors are getting voltage pulse when cranking
4. Inertia switch seems fine
5. I can clearly hear the fuel pump prime for 2-3 seconds when turning on ignition
Fuel pressure at the test port was under 5. I turned the key on and off a few times and it gets up to 40 or so but immediately drops back to 0 when the pump stops.
6. If I jump the pump relay the pressure jumps up but when I crank it I take it the pump stops and the pressure drops again and the truck won't start.
7. Thought maybe the pressure regulator was bad and letting pressure bleed back into the return so I replaced it with spare I had. No change.
8. When cranking I can tell it wants to start as every few seconds the rpm increases like right before a start.
9. I've read that a bad check valve in the pump assembly can go bad letting the pressure bleed back, but would it be so bad that all pressure is immediately lost?

A friend suggested trying starting fluid to verify spark and air but I've always been under the impression that's bad for cars and I'm not sure how that'd work with the supercharger?

I'm not sure where to go from here and I'm trying to avoid replacing parts until I know what's wrong. Any help would be appreciated.
Cody_04l is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-12-2017, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 3
 
Forgot to mention I did replace the fuel in the tank as well

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
Cody_04l is offline  
post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-12-2017, 01:07 PM
10 SECOND CLUB!
 
stkshkr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 706
Rep Power: 7949513
           
Maybe hose split in tank or the Y is cracked?


2004 Silver Born 10/22/03
Built motor, TF heads, Whipple 2.3, 3,25U 8#L, Fore hat 465's FC2, 8AN lines, DW 1200's, Metco rails, WeaponX coils, Stifflers long bars, DS loop, Acufab SBTB, BA2800, Truetrac, QA1's, Harley 356 drag kit battery in bed, JLP intercooler box, Race Stars, 11" Circle D converter, J&S Vampire, Killer Chiller, ARH full 3 inch exhaust, E85, 656hp/665tq Tuned by JJ@WMS.
10.95 @ 124
stkshkr is online now  
 
post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-12-2017, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 3
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stkshkr View Post
Maybe hose split in tank or the Y is cracked?
I plan on taking the pump assembly out in a few days if nothing else turns up. I'm also going to try checking the pressure right before the filter. Just to eliminate anything past that pressure wise.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
Cody_04l is offline  
post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-13-2017, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 3
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stkshkr View Post
Maybe hose split in tank or the Y is cracked?
So I hooked up the pressure gauge at the fuel filter and same result. Pressure slowly builds with multiple primes but quickly drops, within a second or two back to 0. While doing this I noticed I can hear fuel squirting from within the tank when it turns off. Sounds exactly like what you're saying, split hose or y. Now to decide if removing the bed is easier than dropping the tank. I like the bed idea because simply because I like the idea of having access to the tank in case I mess something up.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
Cody_04l is offline  
post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-13-2017, 07:43 PM
11.42 @119.87 Stock Block
 
ilaybrk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: bealeton VA
Posts: 2,561
Rep Power: 19324804
           
I have never pulled the bed always dropped tank. 6 or 7 times it takes two people to pull bed only one person to drop tank

U3.75 L6lb 3.4 Whipp WMS Monster intake Fade to Black intake Elbow jdm E fan Morso tran pan FTVB SCT Xcall 4 tuner oil separator sct 5000 maf sbvtb Fiberglass rear springs JDM drag springs panhard bar catless mid pipe ARH long tubes headers and 3 inch exhaust 58 long bars 2400 stall wms upper control arms carbon drive shaft Killer Chiller and WMS custom Tune
ilaybrk is online now  
post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-14-2017, 09:33 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: St Augustine,Fl
Posts: 11
Rep Power: 6
 
Check valve would cause hard start or long crank time.
It's probably one of the 3 pump hose sections inside the tank leaking. It would be
The less likely to be a check valve on its own. The pump would have to be non working to allow fuel to flow back to the sock.
Imdazeeman is offline  
post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-16-2017, 03:28 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Phoenix East Valley
Posts: 536
Rep Power: 496609
           
Pumps

My truck lost a hose off the high pump. It had an open 3/8" tube off the "Y".

It would start and idle, but touch the pedal and it would die.

Just an example of how drastic it can get and still idle.....

If you are pulling the tank, replace the pumps and get the steel "Y" kit.
(Just what I'd do.)

99L bought new, Forged short block with a main cap girdle, ARP bolts and studs, I W dampner, ported PI heads, 1-7/8" long tubes, 3" full exh, ported Eaton, long bars, solid motor mounts, Trans by A-1, 18 lb pullied, dumped the X4 tuner.
mizlplix is offline  
post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-16-2017, 06:08 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Griffin, Georgia
Posts: 352
Rep Power: 4994654
           
Sir,
Never, I mean never use starting fluid on any engine! I was a truck driver for 13yrs, and back in those days diesels weren't as efficient as now. In the winter we sometimes used it but was always wary of destroying a piston. We are dealing with ether that can actually detonate without spark in you gasoline engine. That said, you would not be able verify spark.

The Exhilaration of Acceleration
Capt.EKB is offline  
post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-20-2017, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 3
 
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. So I dropped the tank and found the two lower hoses had a tear and small hole. So as a temporary test I replaced the hoses with fuel line I had. Fuel pressure now seems to stay at 40 when tested at the rail. But she still won't start. Sounds like it wants to but won't. Not sure where to go from here. Here's a video of what it sounds like. https://goo.gl/photos/VEvqmKJxMkMWJE7v8

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
Cody_04l is offline  
post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-20-2017, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 3
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt.EKB View Post
Sir,
Never, I mean never use starting fluid on any engine! I was a truck driver for 13yrs, and back in those days diesels weren't as efficient as now. In the winter we sometimes used it but was always wary of destroying a piston. We are dealing with ether that can actually detonate without spark in you gasoline engine. That said, you would not be able verify spark.
Yeah I was thinking as a last resort but you're right not worth it.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
Cody_04l is offline  
post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-20-2017, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 3
 
Camshaft or crankshaft position sensor? I thought without the crank sensor I wouldn't have spark? Would then camshaft sensor cause no start?

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
Cody_04l is offline  
post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-20-2017, 06:11 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Charleroi PA
Posts: 114
Rep Power: 224603
           
This may sound far out, but we once had a ford that would not start and after a lot of checking and double checking with no luck removed the mass air sensor and there was a bug stuck to the wire on the mass air. knocked it off and then cleaned the mass air and that fixed it, The truck will run with the mass air disconnected but will not with a short.
chucksbp is online now  
post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-20-2017, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 3
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chucksbp View Post
This may sound far out, but we once had a ford that would not start and after a lot of checking and double checking with no luck removed the mass air sensor and there was a bug stuck to the wire on the mass air. knocked it off and then cleaned the mass air and that fixed it, The truck will run with the mass air disconnected but will not with a short.
Hmm I'll try disconnecting it first and giving it a try. That should eliminate the short right? If it starts then that's the issue.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
Cody_04l is offline  
post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-20-2017, 06:17 PM
Senior Member
 
Thegoon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Palm Coast
Posts: 513
Rep Power: 7286313
           
Two things I would check are the plugs, make sure nothing happened when you ran it out of fuel. Second would be the fuel pump resistor. Make sure it's not cracked or damaged.
Thegoon is offline  
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Lightning Forum | LightningRodder.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome