Lower pulley bolt wont budge - Lightning Forum | LightningRodder.com
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Lower pulley bolt wont budge

So I just recently bought my first lightning and after doing a lot of reading on here and asking some dumb questions I ordered a Lightning Force Performance Pulley kit. I got the truck all apart and the engine locked in place. Then I took the supplied bit that they give you to remove the pulley center bolt and put in the bolt and it didn't fit super snug. I put my rachet on it and gave it a tug and it didn't seem to want to slip so I really yanked on it and the bolt didn't budge at all. So I moved back and used my feet. Pushing as hard as I possibly could I twisted the tool off and the bolt is still not loose. Before anyone says anything I do know that the bolt is left hand thread and I was going the correct way. So today I grabbed my 14mm Snap-on Allen and Long 1/2" Drive rachet and tried again. After pushing til my head felt like it was going to explode yet again the bolt didn't budge. Has anyone ever had this problem before and is their any tip that could make this easier on me? Heat doesn't seem like its going to work judging by the way the bolt goes through the pulley.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 07:19 PM
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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I'm nervous about striping the bolt out after heating it and making the head softt. idk if they make a easy out for a left hand threaded bolt....
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 08:01 PM
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mine was a Bitttttch!

I ended up putting my jack handle over a breaker bar to get more leverage. my friend and I took turns kicking it for a few hours before it broke loose. At one point I thought we were going to kick the truck right off the jackstands, so I added a 2nd set.

It'll come. Some of them take a lot of negotiating though.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scary Poppins View Post
mine was a Bitttttch!

I ended up putting my jack handle over a breaker bar to get more leverage. my friend and I took turns kicking it for a few hours before it broke loose. At one point I thought we were going to kick the truck right off the jackstands, so I added a 2nd set.

It'll come. Some of them take a lot of negotiating though.
Well that makes me feel a little better. I'm nervous that its going to break or something is going to go wrong...
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 09:24 PM
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Impact is the only way we got mine off and it was a snap on impact my Sears impact didn't do the job

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 11:52 PM
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I had my truck on the ground and used my feet against the wheel/tire while pulling on the rachet. Had to put my all on it several times before it broke loose. Dont give up it will come, make sure to use penetrating oil.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 06:58 AM
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Guess I was one of the lucky ones, with a 36" breaker bar it came off on the second kick. Heat should do the trick. Good luck
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 08:02 AM
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Put a long breaker bar on it then use a hydraulic floor jack on breaker bar that will pop it loose..

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
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Put a long breaker bar on it then use a hydraulic floor jack on breaker bar that will pop it loose..

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Yup! Works like a champ.

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 08:49 AM
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I've taken a couple off without too much of a fight, benefits of living in Tx where we don't salt our roads I guess. I always soak it good with penetrating oil. I've heard horror stories of them being a pain.

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 04:25 PM
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Keep at it. It'll break free. Mine was pretty tight as well. I have a 24" breaker bar. I have a half inch drive and a 3/4 drive both the same length. I want to say I used my 3/4 inch drive with a reducer on the end for a half inch hex. Anyhow when it broke free I could have sworn I snapped my hex socket. It was that loud of a pop. Since urs is so tight, be prepared for an earth shattering kaboom once it breaks free. R u turning it the right way? It's been a while but I believe it's left handed thread. Someone else may want to chime in to make sure I'm not giving wrong info
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 04:40 PM
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Bolt...

It is probably the tightest bolt you will ever come across.

With motor warmed up........(not cold)
Jack up as high as stands will allow.
Insert the converter holding tool.
Cheater pipe and both legs, steady push.
Comes off, but not easy.

Yes, you can use an acetlyene/oxygen torch, but heat the center of the head only to
allow the bolt to get longer. A hand rachet and socket will take it out easy.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Ok well when I started this project the hole was pretty shitty looking so I had some one come and help me to hold the rachet straight and I was pushing on it and it ripped the allen hole right out. If I cut the rubber out of the pulley and just in bolt the hub will it come off or does the bolt continue through the hub and go into the center of the crank? I'm starting to think I'm pretty much screwed here......
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 09:28 AM
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????

" I was pushing on it and it ripped the allen hole right out. "

The hex in the outer pulley is not for removing the pulley.
It has two spanner holes in the face of the pulley.

The hex is part of the drive spindle, not pulley.

Buy or make a tool.....(5" x 1" x 1/4" flat, two holes for bolts that fit tight
weld them in , put a big 3/4" nut in the middle, use that to remove the pulley)

Make sure the three small nuts on the mounting brackets against the block are taken off, first.

Then use the tool to break it loose. The whole pulley spins off as a big nut.

Lots of info: CAGED PULLEY REMOVAL

Then you can remove the dampner bolt.

Easy.

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Last edited by mizlplix; 04-26-2017 at 09:25 AM.
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